B18C1 engine

Parts:

port and polish block and head

Hasport engine mounts

ARP studs

RS Machine dome piston 84mm

Eagle Connecting rods

Walbro fuel pump

Skunk2 Black Series Pro Series Cam gears

Skunk2 Tuner Series Stage 3 Camshaft

Skunk2 B-series VTEC Pro Series Valve set

Skunk2 B-series VTEC Titanium retainer set

Skunk2 B-series VTEC Tuner series valve spring set

Skunk2 B-series composite fuel rail

Password JDM carbon fiber intake

Skunk2 Black Series 70mm Billet Pro Series Throttle Body

Password JDM Magnetic oil and Tranny drain plug




Skunk2 Black Series B18 type r Intake Manifold? can this fit ?

NGK spark plug set?

Header- not sure which is best one..

Type r oil pump? will it work?

What kind oil pan? stock or better one?

what kind timing belt? OEM or what?

What kind Injector? RC 550cc??

what kind flywheel? Exedy lightweight?

What kind clutch? act or exedy? 4 or 6 puck? which one is the best?

Bolt boys B-series kit? good?

should I get oil catch can?

should i get a fuel pressure?

OEM dizzy?

can I use racing fuel and pump gas?


let me know if i am missing something

thanks

 

TTT

 

 

Why on earth would you recommend the NGK 9's for an all motor build?

 

Why wouldn't I? I run 9's in my high compression all motor buid. My tuner suggested 7,8,9 so I had 9's on hand and thats what I ran. Just go google everyone recommends 8's or 9's for high compression all motor builds. What do you suggest?

 

7's worked fine for me. 9's are over 14.0:1 and 15.0:1. Even turbo cars don't run anything more than 8s, and those are over 500whp or so and need the extra spark.

 

Who is your tuner? What CR are you running? HP output?
If a tuner gave me a blank statement suggesting 7-9 heat range without thoroughly discussing the build, I would find another tuner immediately.

I'm with shodan. 7's have worked fine for most all motor builds. 99% of the all motor builds I've built with CR ranging from 11:1-13:1, hp ranging from 170-230 whp run perfect with 7's. Post pics of your plug's ground straps. I almost gaurantee you are running too cold of a plug.

 

My take on this build.

 

if you dont know about bolt boys... here is the link http://downstarinc.com/Shop/index.ph...d&productId=20

which is better intake? should i get eagle rods or OEM rods? what about Brian Crower Valve Spring & Retainer Kits, Valves, and cam shaft?

can i use type r ecu for this motor?

can i use OEM bearing?

Which is better fuel rail because i dont have one for it...

sorry i asked too much questions lol because Im making a list to get all parts to build my b18c1

 

Short ram intake with custom tuned tubing.
Eagle rods should be checked out by the machinist to ensure they are true.
Always a good idea to match valvetrain brand to the brand of cams. Other brand combinations will work though.
Stock type r ecu for stage 3 cams is a no no.
OEM bearings are ideal.
OEM fuel rail is more than adequate for an all motor build
Good luck with the build bro.

 

I'm roughly 13+ compression. I have the Wiseco 8.25cc pistons which are around 14:1 compression but my chambers have been opened up so I'm thinking I'm somewhere around 13.5:1 give or take. Power wise the motor made 263 WHP and 163 TQ 85x89. Whole motor was built and tuned by PED Parris Engine Dynamics. You haven't built a 263 WHP B series motor did you? First motor he builds me yeld more power than all the builds you did... Go figure..... You're over there saying my builder is plain **** telling me to run 9's but hey his dyno don't lie.

 

which do you like better? skunk2 or Brian crower for cam gears, camshaft, valve, spring, and retainer?

why cant you use type r ecu for stage 3? what would it happen? blow up the engine?

 

Yes it will BLOW! Stop being a newb. Get the motor broken in and have a good tuner tune it. Please if you are really doing this build have an experienced builder who knows his stuff put everything together for you.

 

I never said your builder/tuner was "plain **** for telling you to run 9's"
Reread my post "If a tuner gave me a blank statement suggesting 7-9 heat range without thoroughly discussing the build, I would find another tuner immediately"

When building your motor, you and your builder should have had a CR and power goal in mind correct? If your CR and power goal were 13.5-14:1 and 260-270 whp then there is no way in hell I would think a heat range from 7-9 would be fine. With that CR and HP goal I would start off with a 8. Do some full throttle runs, pull and inspect the plugs. Then if need be, go a colder heat range. But like I said, to boldly state 7-9's are fine, that's simply absurd, there's a huge differnce from 7-9.

I also said "I'm with shodan. 7's have worked fine for most all motor builds. 99% of the all motor builds I've built with CR ranging from 11:1-13:1, hp ranging from 170-230 whp run perfect with 7's. Post pics of your plug's ground straps. I almost gaurantee you are running too cold of a plug."

Like I said 7's work fine for most all motor builds, not all. I primarily build daily driven motors, built to last with longevity in mind. First motor I ever put together 8 years ago made 202whp 139tq and had over 120k miles. The only reason for a rebuild was because when I sold the motor to a buddy he wanted higher CR, even when I opened it up, things were still in good condition. Obviously there are some full out builds dedicated to drag use, with 13:1 and up CR and hardly see idle and low rpm. For those applications then yes a 8 and up would be better than a 7. If that is your case, non daily driver, constant drag and high rpm then yes the 8-9's are perfect, but 7's would run too hot.
Throw some new 9's in your car, do a WOT pull then pull the plugs immediately and post pics. I'm curious to see your plugs. I'm not trying to argue that the 9's aren't working for you, I'm just saying I sure as hell wouldn't throw 7-9 in my car without planning and testing out which works best.