92 EG willwood fronts / stock disk rear
Howdy guys,
I have this weird problem that just kinda happened in my civic sometimes when I stop the pedal goes closer to the floor then normal and stopping isnt so quick! then I pump it again and it is solid.
I have checked the one way valve between the engine and the brake booster, its good. I don't appear to have any vac leaks.
My setup is stock brake booster, stock master cylinder and full stainless braided lines the entire car. I have the willwood EG 13.5in front rotors and stock disk in the rear all with braided lines.
Now the only thing I can think about doing is re bleeding the entire system, other then that I really don't know, what do you all think?
--Aaron
I have this weird problem that just kinda happened in my civic sometimes when I stop the pedal goes closer to the floor then normal and stopping isnt so quick! then I pump it again and it is solid.
I have checked the one way valve between the engine and the brake booster, its good. I don't appear to have any vac leaks.
My setup is stock brake booster, stock master cylinder and full stainless braided lines the entire car. I have the willwood EG 13.5in front rotors and stock disk in the rear all with braided lines.
Now the only thing I can think about doing is re bleeding the entire system, other then that I really don't know, what do you all think?
--Aaron
Really?... Well I don't really know all the swapable items .. I know there is an option to use a larger master cylinder without a brake booster and the surface area of the disk is larger so you can apply less force to stop. I like this option because my engine bay is all shaved and it would eliminate the tubes from the intake manifold to the brake booster.
Although
wasn't there another option for master cylinder swap with stock CX brake booster?
Due to clearance issues the front output of the master cylinder is close to the rear most driver side upper control arm bolt ... I'll have to post a picture of it after work.
so I guess the options are, master cylinder-less setup or swap with a larger master cylinder from a different model honda?
I have an adjustable proportioning valve for the rears... honestly I had no idea how fun stopping was in this thing!
They would be one of these two items here
http://www.chasebaysonline.com/
or
http://www.kenskustomchassis.com/Brake_Components.htm
Although
wasn't there another option for master cylinder swap with stock CX brake booster?
Due to clearance issues the front output of the master cylinder is close to the rear most driver side upper control arm bolt ... I'll have to post a picture of it after work.
so I guess the options are, master cylinder-less setup or swap with a larger master cylinder from a different model honda?
I have an adjustable proportioning valve for the rears... honestly I had no idea how fun stopping was in this thing!
They would be one of these two items here
http://www.chasebaysonline.com/
or
http://www.kenskustomchassis.com/Brake_Components.htm
Last edited by likwidchz; Jul 28, 2010 at 06:53 AM. Reason: added links
Well it's pretty strange,
sometimes it does it other times its fine.
I'll come to a stop and ill notice that my foot goes all the way to the floor and the car slows down "slowly" once i get done being scared shitless I take my foot off the brake and pump it once it does not return to the floor it stops about halfway as normal.
I don't get it.
However this does not happen every single time...!
The first thing I should do to narrow down anything stupid is re bleed the entire system.
sometimes it does it other times its fine.
I'll come to a stop and ill notice that my foot goes all the way to the floor and the car slows down "slowly" once i get done being scared shitless I take my foot off the brake and pump it once it does not return to the floor it stops about halfway as normal.
I don't get it.
However this does not happen every single time...!
The first thing I should do to narrow down anything stupid is re bleed the entire system.
Last edited by likwidchz; Jul 29, 2010 at 02:48 PM. Reason: FAIL TYPE
I'm having an issue like this in my eg as well... For me i noticed that it seems to be happening after a sustained hold on the brakes.. Anytime that I just touch the brakes for short sections at the friction point but never pull off (like going down a hill of some sort).. By the time I get to the bottom, I have to pump the brakes to get power again... Very disconcerting and want to fix it asap... I'm trying to learn all i can right now so I can get the braking i want the first time around... If i'm gonna replace much, I might like to upgrade a little preferably using oem parts!
First things would be bleed the lines.. Maybe for me adding steel lines since I just got this car! Anything other suggestions are appreciated!
First things would be bleed the lines.. Maybe for me adding steel lines since I just got this car! Anything other suggestions are appreciated!
well I'm guessing but I would get stainless lines all around, what's probably happening is the rubber is expanding as the fluid heats up and it causes more fluid to be held in the lines then when they are cold, which is making you pump the brakes one more time.
My setup however is all stainless lines.
I still need to bleed my whole setup and try again.
However one other thing to note is that this just started happening, Ive had the same setup for about 2 years now and this recently happened.
--Aaron
My setup however is all stainless lines.
I still need to bleed my whole setup and try again.
However one other thing to note is that this just started happening, Ive had the same setup for about 2 years now and this recently happened.
--Aaron
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Still sounds like the MC. Mine was intermittent at first. It was so intermittent that it was hard to describe. Knock back was mentioned and usually happens as the pads are worn and the pistons out farther. Also, there is often a bump, pothole, hard direction change to help explain why the pistons were knocked back. That can feel like when you have used a c-clamp to push the pistons back and then have to pump to get them back out. Also more likely to occur with worn caliper seals. If it is intermittent and spontaneous on normal road, think MC, and look for causes of knock back. Look up knock back on the net.
I figured out the problem,
I have all custom built stainless lines all around, well these rears came from a Canadian company.. I had my dad help me bleed them as I was done bleeding the rear, we went up to the front and started on them and I heard a POP and i was like "What the Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu" went to the back and to my amazement this is what I found.
The rear left one exploded the rear right one was this photo.
I'm not really mad, but glad this did not happen while I was driving.
I have all custom built stainless lines all around, well these rears came from a Canadian company.. I had my dad help me bleed them as I was done bleeding the rear, we went up to the front and started on them and I heard a POP and i was like "What the Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu" went to the back and to my amazement this is what I found.
The rear left one exploded the rear right one was this photo.
I'm not really mad, but glad this did not happen while I was driving.
i bled my own crap well enough to drive to a shop and let them get the air out with a vac....then if its still jacked they get to worry about it
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Walterronny
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Apr 16, 2006 08:01 AM




