gaydm

i have 94 gsr front and back disc brakes and also changed the master cylinder and prop valve on my eg and my brakes feels smushy. everytime press the brake, it slowly goes down. i was wondering if it could be because i didnt change my stock brake lines or master cylinder. thanks..

u_gnit

your brake lines ain't got nothing to do with it. if you didn't take out the old master cylinder, then you don't have to worry about bench bleeding the master cylinder. if you haven't yet bleed your brakes then do so in the orders of rear passenger, rear driver, front passenger, and last but not lease...front driver. bleed it in that order until theres no air in the lines.

gaydm

i did blead it after putting it in

instrument

what do you mean it goes down slowly? the rate at which my brake pedal goes down depends on the rate on which i press it...

have you driven another civic to see if its normal? i've had a couple eg's and other civics and i find myself always pressing too hard in other peoples cars....

gaydm

meaning when your braking, the pedal starts sinking lower and lower and to the floor

CBEengineering

check for spots on the ground by the wheels and chech for prop valve leaks(i drove my car back from connecticut and used a whole MC resivoir full) teflon tape around the threads fixes most boogers the fluid was leaking on the header and burning up so you couldnt see it was leaking. r u losing fluid should of asked that first and shut the car off pump brakes 3 times and hold if it goes to floor bad MC

903

maybe bad master cylinder?

SpydiR

yep, my car used to do this before I swapped my brakes. instead of the integra booster and m/c, I used an EF ex/si m/c and the stock booster. the ef m/c is 15/16" and the pedal firmed up a great deal

stackz

sounds like you've got air in the lines somewhere.

that or one of the calipers might be bad.

-Gary-

When I first bought my Civic it had the same issue where when you push on th brakes it would ever-so-slowly work it's way onto the floor.

It was a bad master cylinder.

But there was more to it than just changing the master cylinder. When I bought my new one it came with a set of hoses with fittings on them to work the air pockets out of the master cylinder. What I had to do was to connect those hoses to the master cylinder, fill the reservoir, put the ends of those little hoses back into the reservoir and pump the brakes until there was no more air left in the fluid as it made its return to the reservoir. This gets rid of any little pockets of air stuck inside your master cylinder.

After that I connected the brake lines and bled them till the fluid coming out had no bubbles and was clean, clean, clean.

Afterwards I test drove it and I had a solid pedal to a certain point and then it would just go to the floor. I thought to myself. "WTF!" Well to make a long post longer, it hadn't tightened th hoses up to the master cylinder tight enough. They need to be uber-tight and I only had them tight.

Here are some basic things that you will need to look into.

1) Disconnect your brake lines from your master cylinder and get a connector of the same thread size as your brake lines with a little nipple on the end for you to attach a little clear hose to.

2) Connect the fitting to your master cylinder and rout the hoses back to your fluid resovior. Pump your brakes until you (or your buddy helping you) doesn't see any more bubbles. Even little bubbles are bad.

3) Disconnect fittings and firmly attach your brake lines to your master cylinder.

4) Bleed your brakes fully.

If after test driving you still have the pedal going down to the floor and you don't have any fluid leaking out anywhere, you most likely have a bad master cylinder.

dixie Normas7

to get the caliper back on did you squeeze the pistons to get it back on the rotor.? If so check the pistons in the caliper becuase after you do a break job the petal will go to the floor as you know but within a few pumps it should be normal. Maby some of the pistons went bad or you damaged them...??

gaydm

thanks!