So i bought a full ls motor with tranny for only $200. block says its a dc4, which im pretty sure means its 94-01, but tranny is cable and ecu and harness is obd0. Motor was completely disassembled when i got it so it could be mismatched but that's okay. I plan on putting this motor in either an eg/ek hatch, but will take a 2dr/4dr dc teggy.

Missing parts off the top of my head:
Valve cover(got a couple b20 ones)
crank pulley(gotta get my tool back and hit the junkyard)

Head P75
Crower 62403-2
Crower dual valve springs
Crower titanium retainers
DIY hand port with dremel(still need to smooth and polish)
OEM valves relapped

Block B18B1
Aluminum filled
YCP JDM B16B pistons 81mm
NPR rings
stock ls rods(might get shot peened)
arp rod bolts
ACL or OEM bearings(still need to get tools to check cleareances)
Rebuilt oil pump(to do, just like vtec)
new vtec water pump(to do)
ARP head studs and main studs






IM/TB & Header talk later

Hopeing to make 200whp, but will be happy with 180. plan on revving to 8kk.

 

You will most likely make in the neighborhood of 165-175hp with your setup.

Did you have a machine shop install the rod bolts? From the looks of it you did not, you will need to have them "resized" for the new bolts.

You pistons appear to be B16A PR3/P30 pistons not B16B PCT's

All OBDII oil pumps are the same, so if you have a newer style ppump its teh same as any Vtec pump.

ARP main studs are completely unnecessary and also require additional machining.

I am very curious about the filled block...... I see no coolant passages drilled is it completely filled?

 

i hope it is not completly i dont think you can run it like that... wouldnt it melt a piston or bend a rod

 

the block is not completely filled. this is the tutorial i followed https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1444721. already drilled the holes just havent taken a pic.

these are the ones i bought. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT. is there any distinct way to distinguish between the b16a and b16b pistons even though these are not oem?

is the resizeing the rods and machine work for the main studs to make sure the circles are perfectly round? because i might have to get the block honed by one because i took some readings and everything does not have the best clearances IMO. some areas are +/- 0.0001 and some are +/- 0.0025. with try to get my data up tomorrow.

also all of the rod bearing surfaces are nice and smooth except one of the rods. its has some pretty bad scoring. thinking this motor spun a bearing? so im thinking ill have to get this one machined along with the rest of the block.

also just ordered 2-3", 3-4" machinist mics to make sure pistons are perfect and check crank.

 

Yes additional machine work is to make the holes perfectly round, not many machine shops have the equipment to line hone a honda block with steel caps and an aluminum block.

 

i know the measurements are off but they are all correct in relation to each other to show the differences. if this is okay then ill just reuse my stock mains, if not ill give it to a machine shop for a hone, line hone, and possibly deck. i have to go regardless to get that one rod surface smooth

 

no cams? where tha crower stage 2or 3 cams your slackin haha, heard a rumer that replacing pistons with high compression wont make the power it could if you hade aftermarket cams then stock ls

 

what you mean pics? i can get some of them up. i think the 403 (stage 2) will do better than ls cams. if not i have a set of ls and b20b cams to try.

 

oh nevermind wasnt familiar with the code, and yeah i heard that crower stage 2 is a good way to go , and are alot better then stock ls cams,

 

so originally i was using this: http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/c...c/compcalc.php to estimate my cr. came out with 11.4 with an oem hg.

then i came across this: http://www.zealautowerks.com/bseries.html which gets more info and i assume is more accurate. with this i get 13.14! which is impossible for a dd.


... i hope i dont need to get new pistons again.

 

The Zeal calculator claims there is a difference with the deck height, I do not know that anyone has verified this.
The c-speed doesn't take the compression height into account.

Put the block together and measure your piston to deck height, then buy the appropriate head gasket.

 

with the block assembled do i measure from the deck to the top dome of the piston or right where the side of the piston ends?

now i plan on getting an OEM 3-layer head gasket, but is there anything thicker than that?