Civic - Installing Ball joits - How to needed
I am replacing the upper and lower ball joints on the passenger side. Just replaced the axle and wheel bearing and when i weny to put the steering knuckle back on both ball joints are spinning with the castle nut. Time to replace i guess. Anyone with some tips or how to would be greatly appreciated.
Just because they spin does not mean they are bad,clean threads,use tap and die or thread chaser if you have them.
Put pressure on the joints so that they hold in the tapered hole or as above poster says use impact gun if you have one.
Put pressure on the joints so that they hold in the tapered hole or as above poster says use impact gun if you have one.
The threads taht the castle nut thread on are perfectly fine. The bolt is spinning inside the boot. If i was to put pressure on the ball joint and kept the bolt from spinning to thread the castle nut on, is there a risk of the ball joint failling and snapping? I don't want to risk anything since my kids and wife ride me in that car sometimes.
Also, i have no air tools and it is not that the threads are in bad shape so i can get the castle nut on, even with the lightest bit of resistance the ball joint bolt starts spinning with the castle nut and it is not seated so i can thread it. it is spinning freely.
Is there a way to disasemble the ball joint and repair?
If not, anyone have tips on the replacement, I am doing it tonight. picking up the parts at Pepboys after work.
Thanks in advance.
Also, i have no air tools and it is not that the threads are in bad shape so i can get the castle nut on, even with the lightest bit of resistance the ball joint bolt starts spinning with the castle nut and it is not seated so i can thread it. it is spinning freely.
Is there a way to disasemble the ball joint and repair?
If not, anyone have tips on the replacement, I am doing it tonight. picking up the parts at Pepboys after work.
Thanks in advance.
You wouldn't be able to take out the lower ball joint that eazy. YOu need a mechanics shop to press then out and put a new one in. Doing it by yourself can be really dangerous if not done right. For your own good with your family then take it to a professional.
As already mentioned, it's unlikely that the ball joints need to be replaced. Start by cleaning the nut and bolt threads, spraying them with PB Blaster, and trying again. Put pressure on the ball joints as you try to tighten the nut.
If the thread turns with the nut how to i keep it from spinning while trying to rethread or clean the threads?
Is it normal for them to spin like this?
Again, this is my first time removing the steering knuckle. I just repalced the axle and then took in the knuckle to get the new wheel bearing pressed in.
I just called the shop and there quoting just under $300 for the repair and I think thats crap since the LBJ is only $27.
I guess i could tear it out again and run it up there to have them do the press for me for $35 but i like a challenge.
My main concern is if i do put pressure on the LBJ and get it to stay while i thread teh castle nut on , is there realy an underlying problem with the LBJ? Is it going to just "pop off"?
I have a Moderate skill level, I can manage most things outside of transmission and engine work.
Is it normal for them to spin like this?
Again, this is my first time removing the steering knuckle. I just repalced the axle and then took in the knuckle to get the new wheel bearing pressed in.
I just called the shop and there quoting just under $300 for the repair and I think thats crap since the LBJ is only $27.
I guess i could tear it out again and run it up there to have them do the press for me for $35 but i like a challenge.
My main concern is if i do put pressure on the LBJ and get it to stay while i thread teh castle nut on , is there realy an underlying problem with the LBJ? Is it going to just "pop off"?
I have a Moderate skill level, I can manage most things outside of transmission and engine work.
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Put pressure on the lower control arm near the ball joint by jacking it up onto the balljoint to try to get it to seat.
The balljoint will spin and that does not mean it is no good,try holding the threads and pulling up from the LCA if there is movement that way then your balljoint is probably shot.
See if any parts stroe near you has a loner tool program and if you need to you can get a balljoint press,its like a big heavy C clamp,and you should be able to change the joint out.Other advice is get your self a workshop manual either buy one or find one you can download on line but it will become your best friend,and save you a bucket load of money.
The balljoint will spin and that does not mean it is no good,try holding the threads and pulling up from the LCA if there is movement that way then your balljoint is probably shot.
See if any parts stroe near you has a loner tool program and if you need to you can get a balljoint press,its like a big heavy C clamp,and you should be able to change the joint out.Other advice is get your self a workshop manual either buy one or find one you can download on line but it will become your best friend,and save you a bucket load of money.
Thanks for method to check to LBJ, I will do that tonight and if it is firm then i will do the pressure thing.
I have saved about $650 so far in the last 2 weeks, i repalced teh front passenger axle myself then did teh tear down to baught the bearing ot have PB press it for $35. I was quted about $850 for those two repairs alone.
spent so far
Axle $70
Bearing$48
PB Press Job $35
Total $153
Savings - $697 !!!
And i can bearily afford the $153 right now!
I have saved about $650 so far in the last 2 weeks, i repalced teh front passenger axle myself then did teh tear down to baught the bearing ot have PB press it for $35. I was quted about $850 for those two repairs alone.
spent so far
Axle $70
Bearing$48
PB Press Job $35
Total $153
Savings - $697 !!!
And i can bearily afford the $153 right now!
Put pressure on the lower control arm near the ball joint by jacking it up onto the balljoint to try to get it to seat.
The balljoint will spin and that does not mean it is no good,try holding the threads and pulling up from the LCA if there is movement that way then your balljoint is probably shot.
.
The balljoint will spin and that does not mean it is no good,try holding the threads and pulling up from the LCA if there is movement that way then your balljoint is probably shot.
.
the ball joint thread goes through the LCA, the ball joint is exactly that, a ball in a round joint, so whatever you do, its going to spin
put the threaded part of the ball joint through the LCA, make sure that the top control arm is fitted properly so that you dont push your hub through your fender
now put you jack under the LCA(not on the ball joint)
jack it up untill the ball joint is fully through and seated as it should be in the taper
now with the castle nut screw it on, make sure all the threads are clean and that the nut goes on straight, if the ball joint spins then add a lil more pressure with the jack
if this fails, look at the balljoint, below the boot and above the thread there is usually a thick metal sleeve part, grip this with vise grips and then try putting the nut on
put the threaded part of the ball joint through the LCA, make sure that the top control arm is fitted properly so that you dont push your hub through your fender
now put you jack under the LCA(not on the ball joint)
jack it up untill the ball joint is fully through and seated as it should be in the taper
now with the castle nut screw it on, make sure all the threads are clean and that the nut goes on straight, if the ball joint spins then add a lil more pressure with the jack
if this fails, look at the balljoint, below the boot and above the thread there is usually a thick metal sleeve part, grip this with vise grips and then try putting the nut on
Thank you for the explaination . . . . If the boots are torn does that pose a big problem? Should i just pump some grease in the torn spot to keep them lubed?
well the boots are there to stop the joint wearing and to obviously keep the grease in there so it remains lubricated. personally if it were me id replace the whole joint, but thats because i can get them for whats probly about $3 for you guys (im in the uk btw)
so long as there is no excess movement in the balljoint(up and down movement, not left to right) then the joint itself is still ok. you will hear it knock when its ****ed
so long as there is no excess movement in the balljoint(up and down movement, not left to right) then the joint itself is still ok. you will hear it knock when its ****ed
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