front camber fix??
hey guys, i jus want to start by saying i need help with some questions about my wheel and camber alignment now that i cut my springs wayyyyy out of porportion ( like a dumbass lol) 3.5in. on stock springs and components, and my questions are.
when im drivin on my highways, say 60-70ish my car tends to pull and has the wheel shakes pretty bad, and i feel it sometimes from the floorboard (beside exhuast vibrations) and i dont know what it is? i obviously know i need a alignment, but what else?
and on the braking the wheel shakes the same and pulls worse, and i know i need rotors myself, ive established that lol but that and just my overall ride is just scaring me kinda? lol long rides without the music on tryin to put a finger on my problems can someone help me??? thanks
when im drivin on my highways, say 60-70ish my car tends to pull and has the wheel shakes pretty bad, and i feel it sometimes from the floorboard (beside exhuast vibrations) and i dont know what it is? i obviously know i need a alignment, but what else?
and on the braking the wheel shakes the same and pulls worse, and i know i need rotors myself, ive established that lol but that and just my overall ride is just scaring me kinda? lol long rides without the music on tryin to put a finger on my problems can someone help me??? thanks
What kind of help do you expect? You need new brakes, springs, and probably need struts. You should also make sure you don't need bushings, ball joints, tie rods, and bearings. When all that is done, get an alignment.
I've already established that, I've planned on buying ksports krontrol pros, and thinkin about a energy suspension kit, and new rotors. What about camber kits? And a alignment obviously. That's my main problem, but what else? That's my "death wobble" is we call it in NJ?
Camber kits are trash, just get all new OEM (or like OEM) front components:
- bushings
- ball joints
- tie rods
- rotors/pads
- upper control arms
& most importantly get a decent suspension, then align it.
- bushings
- ball joints
- tie rods
- rotors/pads
- upper control arms
& most importantly get a decent suspension, then align it.
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Read the sticky about camber kits and decide for yourself if you want one. The only other thing that hasn't been mentioned are your tires. What condition are they in?
Ill first explain why you never cut your springs. Your springs are a progressive spring. Meaning the more the spring gets compressed the stronger the spring gets. So when you cut your springs you increase the spring rate exponentially.
What you should do is inspect your suspension. Wheel bearings especially. That vibration is probibly comming from a bad wheel bearing. Other possibiltys is tire inbalance or tire wear. Specifically cupping.
Next check the rotating drive line. A bad axel or intermediat shaft bearing will along with wheel bearings will cause a vibration felt through the floor.
Basically check you car over and you will know what you do and don't need.
Good luck with the car. If you need any help feel free to pm me
What you should do is inspect your suspension. Wheel bearings especially. That vibration is probibly comming from a bad wheel bearing. Other possibiltys is tire inbalance or tire wear. Specifically cupping.
Next check the rotating drive line. A bad axel or intermediat shaft bearing will along with wheel bearings will cause a vibration felt through the floor.
Basically check you car over and you will know what you do and don't need.
Good luck with the car. If you need any help feel free to pm me
I personally love camber kits for many reasons - all good. The down side is that there are not many good kits out there...Skunkworks V1 ball joints for the front still don't impress me; there is precious little grease in the ball joint, the action of the ball joint is crude and there is no clip on the lower portion of the rubber boot to prevent crap from entering the ball joint surface.
I beleive Grouond Control made a kit a while back that required the use of the stock honda ball joint...which required buying new front upper control arms. Expensive, yes, but that was the best way.
Rear camber kits...there are plenty of good kits out there.
You can cut springs as long as you know what you are doing...how you do it, what length you choose, what rate is expected among a few other considerations should have crossed your mind. you laways have to align your car after installing spring. dampers...etc.
I beleive Grouond Control made a kit a while back that required the use of the stock honda ball joint...which required buying new front upper control arms. Expensive, yes, but that was the best way.
Rear camber kits...there are plenty of good kits out there.
You can cut springs as long as you know what you are doing...how you do it, what length you choose, what rate is expected among a few other considerations should have crossed your mind. you laways have to align your car after installing spring. dampers...etc.
Buddy club camber kits
however, i still would never put one in front, only rear.
front camber kits, lessin the amount of clearence bewteen them and the shock tower, and sometimes you will run the uca into it which is never good.
I was runing around -3.8 degrees of camber and my car didnt shake at all.
however, i still would never put one in front, only rear.front camber kits, lessin the amount of clearence bewteen them and the shock tower, and sometimes you will run the uca into it which is never good.
I was runing around -3.8 degrees of camber and my car didnt shake at all.
so you guys are saying to just buy rear camber kits?? im buying coilovers and a bushing set and getting it aligned after all that?? anything else?? any wisdom from fellow negative camber driver??
Yes, and no. Depending on how much negative camber you have and want, you can try washer over the bolts, this will decrease negative camber.
Yes, always have it aligned after you change ride height, While your at it do inner and outer tie rods, Might as well do it now youll be in there, and alignment can change when you do it.
Yes, always have it aligned after you change ride height, While your at it do inner and outer tie rods, Might as well do it now youll be in there, and alignment can change when you do it.
You guys have to realize at some point that camber correction affects more than just the tire...3.8 deg neg camber on an SLA set up is very, very aggressive. Camber value may have little to do with upper control arm hitting the body work, that is more a function of a ride height that is too low or improper upper ball joint stud length...in combination with poorly matched springs and dampers.
Read up on camber, roll centers and instant centers...these are all very tightly tethered together. Anyone interested in driving a car that handles properly - road and track - should understand the relative value using camber correction.
Read up on camber, roll centers and instant centers...these are all very tightly tethered together. Anyone interested in driving a car that handles properly - road and track - should understand the relative value using camber correction.
i had the same problem he had "but i didnt cut my springs" i put adjustable coils on my stock struts and it took about 2 days to blow my seals.... so i replaced my struts with K-sport all the way around and problem fixed
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