JRSC cooling combinations for extended track use
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From: ITRCA Midwest Director, Topeka, KS
I have read so many possibilities, but what would be best for these circumstances?
B18c5 with an LHT intercooled Jackson M62 blower and MVM stepper and 3.8 nose cone pulley with the large heat exchanger from LHT. Doing some street tuning, I am seeing 9.1 psi in 4th gear. I don't have any desire to run any more boost.
My concern is that intake temps shoot up to 160 degrees F when doing pulls while street tuning (on a 90 degree F day). My main concern is for track (road course) use....
I can baby the car on the street, but will run it hard at the track. I am afraid what the intake temps are going to be for 25 minute sessions.
Running the MVM stepper without the LHT and smaller nose pulley sent intake temps over 220. I really don't want to run anywhere near that high which is why I got the intercooler. I am currently using a 10 parts water, 1 part coolant, with very little Water Wetter added.
Possibilities I have seen include:
1)adding a water / meth injection;
2)adding nitrous;
3)A/C cooling the intercooler with freon (probably won't work for me because of extended high rpms);
4)Somehow adding an ice reservoir (I worry about this because of dripping water on the track, causing others' traction problems);
Again, being that I will track it and be in boost for extended periods of time, what would be the best option to explore? I have not tracked the car with the current setup to see what the temps would be.
B18c5 with an LHT intercooled Jackson M62 blower and MVM stepper and 3.8 nose cone pulley with the large heat exchanger from LHT. Doing some street tuning, I am seeing 9.1 psi in 4th gear. I don't have any desire to run any more boost.
My concern is that intake temps shoot up to 160 degrees F when doing pulls while street tuning (on a 90 degree F day). My main concern is for track (road course) use....
I can baby the car on the street, but will run it hard at the track. I am afraid what the intake temps are going to be for 25 minute sessions.
Running the MVM stepper without the LHT and smaller nose pulley sent intake temps over 220. I really don't want to run anywhere near that high which is why I got the intercooler. I am currently using a 10 parts water, 1 part coolant, with very little Water Wetter added.
Possibilities I have seen include:
1)adding a water / meth injection;
2)adding nitrous;
3)A/C cooling the intercooler with freon (probably won't work for me because of extended high rpms);
4)Somehow adding an ice reservoir (I worry about this because of dripping water on the track, causing others' traction problems);
Again, being that I will track it and be in boost for extended periods of time, what would be the best option to explore? I have not tracked the car with the current setup to see what the temps would be.
your major problem would be thermal management of you engine, knock resistance
i use my JRSC LHT B18C on the track for shorter time lengh session 6 minutes
For 25 minutes session,
i would run Mugen thermostat and lower my fancontrol point in engine management,
run one step colder spark plugs
run Ice reservoir would be the best solution IMO, Summit sell sone cheap reservoir
run a bit of octane booster or race gaz mix
another big point is your tune, i tune my IAT and ECT fuel anf Ign in the extrème range of heat ,
you can run over heat protection in software to save your engine
add a fan on your heat exchanger
i use my JRSC LHT B18C on the track for shorter time lengh session 6 minutes
For 25 minutes session,
i would run Mugen thermostat and lower my fancontrol point in engine management,
run one step colder spark plugs
run Ice reservoir would be the best solution IMO, Summit sell sone cheap reservoir
run a bit of octane booster or race gaz mix
another big point is your tune, i tune my IAT and ECT fuel anf Ign in the extrème range of heat ,
you can run over heat protection in software to save your engine
add a fan on your heat exchanger
I ran a 160deg thermostat and Mugen fan switch before, but before I took my car to VIR I put a brand new stock thermostat in with the Mugen fan switch as people said it's better to have the car running with the stock thermostat. It was so hot then I wish I had the low temp thermostat in, but to this day I'm not sure what's truly best.
I do have a fluidyne radiator now though.
I do have a fluidyne radiator now though.
Keep in mind that a lower temp fan switch won't be much use while "on the track", as the rad fan starts to stall out at about 40 mph. Once you slow down and are in the pits, the rad fan can do it's job, but while out on the track (while you're actually making the heat) the ran fan switching on early won't do you any good.
What about a better rad? I've been putting 20psi of boost into my motor for the last week or so with my Endyn D series M62 kit, and I have a monster Koyo aluminum rad, and though my ambient temps have not been as high as yours (maybe 70-75 degrees tops) I have yet to see my coolant temps go above 190.
What about a better rad? I've been putting 20psi of boost into my motor for the last week or so with my Endyn D series M62 kit, and I have a monster Koyo aluminum rad, and though my ambient temps have not been as high as yours (maybe 70-75 degrees tops) I have yet to see my coolant temps go above 190.
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From: ITRCA Midwest Director, Topeka, KS
Keep in mind that a lower temp fan switch won't be much use while "on the track", as the rad fan starts to stall out at about 40 mph. Once you slow down and are in the pits, the rad fan can do it's job, but while out on the track (while you're actually making the heat) the ran fan switching on early won't do you any good.
What about a better rad? I've been putting 20psi of boost into my motor for the last week or so with my Endyn D series M62 kit, and I have a monster Koyo aluminum rad, and though my ambient temps have not been as high as yours (maybe 70-75 degrees tops) I have yet to see my coolant temps go above 190.
What about a better rad? I've been putting 20psi of boost into my motor for the last week or so with my Endyn D series M62 kit, and I have a monster Koyo aluminum rad, and though my ambient temps have not been as high as yours (maybe 70-75 degrees tops) I have yet to see my coolant temps go above 190.
I used to run the Mugen thermostat, but put a stock one back in when it died. All that it did was keep the car from warming up fully (causing a constant fuel enrichment and timing retard). Fuel economy suffered because of this, especially in the winter months.
However, I am more concerned about the air intake temps than the coolant at this point.
I was just looking at the Nitrous Xpress N tercooler kit. I wonder how many people use that with success. I don't exactly have a lot of room in my engine bay, so I am not sure how I would rig up an ice reservoir tank. I think dry ice is out of the question.
Perhaps some road racers will chime in that use the JRSC with a similar boost level of 9 psi, and share what typical intake temps are while on track. If they shoot up to around 200 and hold (with intercooler), I can live with that, I just don't know how high to expect them to go at the moment :-/
The other possibility is that I don't need any further cooling and can compensate enough in Hondata (S300).
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: ITRCA Midwest Director, Topeka, KS
I was just reading this thread: https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-type-r-8/another-itr-jrsc-lht-1708698/ and found some good, relevant information.
Something I had not thought of is that with the LHT setup, the air temp sensor is on the back of the manifold, before the intercooler.... So really, the temps should be substantially lower. With this in mind, I wonder if further cooling is even necessary?
Something I had not thought of is that with the LHT setup, the air temp sensor is on the back of the manifold, before the intercooler.... So really, the temps should be substantially lower. With this in mind, I wonder if further cooling is even necessary?
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