compressed air to cool intake air temp?
thought of a crazy idea but it seems like its worth trying.
Anyone thats used an air compressor in their garage knows that once released, the compressed air is very cold and also that compressor regulators can usually be adjusted to 100+psi.
My idea is to get a 5 gallon air carry tank and fill it using my garage air compressor, put the tank on the pass. side floorboard, put a on/off lever valve on the regulator, run a hose from the valve the the inlet of my intake (i have a stock intake). I figure spraying at WOT would mean the engine is recieving drastically cooler intake air temps thus making more hp & tq.
Any input?
Anyone thats used an air compressor in their garage knows that once released, the compressed air is very cold and also that compressor regulators can usually be adjusted to 100+psi.
My idea is to get a 5 gallon air carry tank and fill it using my garage air compressor, put the tank on the pass. side floorboard, put a on/off lever valve on the regulator, run a hose from the valve the the inlet of my intake (i have a stock intake). I figure spraying at WOT would mean the engine is recieving drastically cooler intake air temps thus making more hp & tq.
Any input?
Don't know about that b/c a compressor always has a but load of water in there u prob flood the motor with water more than anything. I wouldn't try it on my motor that's pretty crazy. Just get some nitrous.
Honestly its just a realllly efficient CAI but you are introducing a little more air into the intake as well. Its either harmless and helpful or harmless and worthless IMO.
I give you a thumbs up for creative thinking but the idea cracks me up
I don't think you'll have any success or notice any difference trying this. You might stand a small chance of a gain if you were to hook up a CO2 tank and spray the outside of the intake pipe (ideally a metal one). It would be very cold and help cool the intake charge a little. The real gains from a CAI aren't so much from the cooler air, it's the fact that they use a longer length of pipe which enhances the tuning resonance frequency and cylinder filling. Add a little more fuel to the additional air and you've got more power.
I don't think you'll have any success or notice any difference trying this. You might stand a small chance of a gain if you were to hook up a CO2 tank and spray the outside of the intake pipe (ideally a metal one). It would be very cold and help cool the intake charge a little. The real gains from a CAI aren't so much from the cooler air, it's the fact that they use a longer length of pipe which enhances the tuning resonance frequency and cylinder filling. Add a little more fuel to the additional air and you've got more power.
I give you a thumbs up for creative thinking but the idea cracks me up
I don't think you'll have any success or notice any difference trying this. You might stand a small chance of a gain if you were to hook up a CO2 tank and spray the outside of the intake pipe (ideally a metal one). It would be very cold and help cool the intake charge a little. The real gains from a CAI aren't so much from the cooler air, it's the fact that they use a longer length of pipe which enhances the tuning resonance frequency and cylinder filling. Add a little more fuel to the additional air and you've got more power.
I don't think you'll have any success or notice any difference trying this. You might stand a small chance of a gain if you were to hook up a CO2 tank and spray the outside of the intake pipe (ideally a metal one). It would be very cold and help cool the intake charge a little. The real gains from a CAI aren't so much from the cooler air, it's the fact that they use a longer length of pipe which enhances the tuning resonance frequency and cylinder filling. Add a little more fuel to the additional air and you've got more power.I appreciate someone who understands where I was trying to go with the concept. Of course a hardcore believer in the idea might hook up a boost gauge to the intake to monitor pressure, install an AEM adjustable FPR, get a wideband, and play with the regulator on the air tank till they see positive mani pressure..but then I'd be in the wrong section for this topic
It seems like if anything, you'd be benefiting from the additional airflow, not the cooling (basically low-level boost). Remember too, if it's too cold the fuel won't atomize correctly and will collect together into droplets.
I do like the idea, though; I'd actually thought about this before using thermoelectrics. It's basically a small cooling plate about 1"x1"; I figure you attach a couple of these to an intake pipe or cold air box and voila, drop the intake temp 20+ degrees potentially. After I finish my build that is one of the next things I want to try, rigged up with a temp sensor in the intake pipe (or to the stock IAT somehow) to regulate the amount of cooling.
I do like the idea, though; I'd actually thought about this before using thermoelectrics. It's basically a small cooling plate about 1"x1"; I figure you attach a couple of these to an intake pipe or cold air box and voila, drop the intake temp 20+ degrees potentially. After I finish my build that is one of the next things I want to try, rigged up with a temp sensor in the intake pipe (or to the stock IAT somehow) to regulate the amount of cooling.
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The air inside a compressor tank is not always colder. It depends on the location of your tank and the air temperature around the tank. For example, The tank is sitting in the passenger seat of your car in the afternoon sun. Is it really going to remain cool?
Why not try and move your A/C unit in the path of your intake air. So instead of cooling the cabin it will cool the air going into your engine.
Why not try and move your A/C unit in the path of your intake air. So instead of cooling the cabin it will cool the air going into your engine.
The air inside a compressor tank is not always colder. It depends on the location of your tank and the air temperature around the tank. For example, The tank is sitting in the passenger seat of your car in the afternoon sun. Is it really going to remain cool?
Why not try and move your A/C unit in the path of your intake air. So instead of cooling the cabin it will cool the air going into your engine.
Why not try and move your A/C unit in the path of your intake air. So instead of cooling the cabin it will cool the air going into your engine.

and technically compressed air INSIDE the tank is much hotter than atmospheric. It is only cold when released from the compressed state.
Unless i were to weld up some sort of intake pipe that could both a) take in air under vacuum and b) seal when the compressed air was blown into the intake pipe, then I wouldnt really be boosting at all haha.
idk i thought about it and thought this could really work. something like...boost of a turbo with the with the driver's choice to se it kinda like nitrous.
lmao
Thats actually not a bad idea haha. I mean it probably wont work in real life scenarios but I have to give you an A for effort at least.
On some of our K series race cars where the velocity stack sits directly on the front bumper and it feeds to a bottom mount TB, after we tune the car we take an air hose and do one last pull spraying air almost directly into the Vstack. Our thought process is to simulate the oncoming air on the track at 125+mph. It usually pics up 1-2hp. We do it so we can accomodate for added air on the top end in the tune. I highly doubt a butt dyno would be able to feel the difference. Plus you are just introducing another element of something that COULD go wrong and cost you a motor.
Being that the gains are negligable on the dyno with an idea close to yours, I'd say its probably not worth the hassle
On some of our K series race cars where the velocity stack sits directly on the front bumper and it feeds to a bottom mount TB, after we tune the car we take an air hose and do one last pull spraying air almost directly into the Vstack. Our thought process is to simulate the oncoming air on the track at 125+mph. It usually pics up 1-2hp. We do it so we can accomodate for added air on the top end in the tune. I highly doubt a butt dyno would be able to feel the difference. Plus you are just introducing another element of something that COULD go wrong and cost you a motor.
Being that the gains are negligable on the dyno with an idea close to yours, I'd say its probably not worth the hassle
someone at the local races here tried it on a stock beat up mazda 323. He had a compressor on the passenger floor and would spray it at WOT. It was slightly faster than a stock one and it blew after a couple of races :p
You should try to make a water to air cooler for the intake, that would be much more useful.
You should try to make a water to air cooler for the intake, that would be much more useful.
I don't. I've had and driven turbo cars in the past. Awesome and quick but in the end I'm not a racer on the street or the track so whats the point. I just wanted to see what everyone thought of it.
Lol mazda. I like the water to air cooler idea.
someone at the local races here tried it on a stock beat up mazda 323. He had a compressor on the passenger floor and would spray it at WOT. It was slightly faster than a stock one and it blew after a couple of races :p
You should try to make a water to air cooler for the intake, that would be much more useful.
You should try to make a water to air cooler for the intake, that would be much more useful.
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