h22a4 swap
i am having a problek with my h22a4 in my civic. its all wired in running but when i start to drive it it boggs down alot. there is a new cap rotor and spark plugs. the car is running on stock civic pipping and muffler. when the car is cold it runs great doesnt bogg out or anything but once warmed up to operating temps thats when it starts to bogg out. anyone have any advice. thanks
IDK about a stock P28 running an H22a.
I know I have run a modded P28 with a generic chip on my H22.
Find a used P13 and enjoy.(Unless you're considering something tunable) You could use your P28 for eCtune/neptune/hondata if you desire.
Money well spent considering you're probably WAAAY down on power.
I know I have run a modded P28 with a generic chip on my H22.
Find a used P13 and enjoy.(Unless you're considering something tunable) You could use your P28 for eCtune/neptune/hondata if you desire.
Money well spent considering you're probably WAAAY down on power.
Are you throwing any codes?
P13 is a piece of ****, even guys who do H22 Accord swaps use P28s. I use P13s in H22 Accord swaps because I can find them for free, but I wouldn't use it in a Civic swap because then you'll have to wire up EGR/IAB, and add in a bunch of vacuum hoses and solenoids to avoid EGR codes.
As far as the bogging issue goes, do you have any vacuum leaks? Have you tried changing your fuel filter? What's your fuel pressure at? Have you tried advancing the ignition timing at all?
When the car is cold, the ECU makes it run rich, but when in closed loop (warm), the ECU makes it run normal. Clearly fuel is your problem, but you gotta find out if the problem is your car/engine setup or not before assuming it's the ECU. If you really think the ECU is the problem, try swapping ECUs with a P30, PR3, P73 or hell, even a P75. You won't go into limp mode with those other ECUs unless you don't have a knock sensor and the fuel map will be richer to accomodate the increased air flow of the H22. You can also try swapping in a p72 ECU, but you might throw codes for IAB. If the problem persists after ECU swapping, continue checking out areas of the car that can cause a lean condition.
P13 is a piece of ****, even guys who do H22 Accord swaps use P28s. I use P13s in H22 Accord swaps because I can find them for free, but I wouldn't use it in a Civic swap because then you'll have to wire up EGR/IAB, and add in a bunch of vacuum hoses and solenoids to avoid EGR codes.
As far as the bogging issue goes, do you have any vacuum leaks? Have you tried changing your fuel filter? What's your fuel pressure at? Have you tried advancing the ignition timing at all?
When the car is cold, the ECU makes it run rich, but when in closed loop (warm), the ECU makes it run normal. Clearly fuel is your problem, but you gotta find out if the problem is your car/engine setup or not before assuming it's the ECU. If you really think the ECU is the problem, try swapping ECUs with a P30, PR3, P73 or hell, even a P75. You won't go into limp mode with those other ECUs unless you don't have a knock sensor and the fuel map will be richer to accomodate the increased air flow of the H22. You can also try swapping in a p72 ECU, but you might throw codes for IAB. If the problem persists after ECU swapping, continue checking out areas of the car that can cause a lean condition.
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If you need a free ECU, you'll have to wander outside of the 200whp Prelude world and find one of the hundreds of Civic owners with H22s and ask them for the ECU that came with their swap. I'm sure the OP of this thread has a P13 sitting around collecting dust unless he gave it away already.
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