I am looking to do an Air to Water Int. on my new setup, mainly because I do not have alot of room behind my JDM Front End and I would prefer to not hack it all up to do a dual backdoor. I do drive my car on the street so I know A/W is not the most practical thing but as I continue to build my new setup everything seems far from practial.

I was looking at doing a Garrett 1000hp core, a 20lb Ice Box and a 26x7x3.5 or 26x7x2 Heat Exchanger behind the bumper with a fan on one side of it or if I run the smaller Exchanger I can probably squeeze 2 7" fans on it. My main question is what kind of flow in terms of GPM for the pump should I be looking for? I saw a few pumps from Meizer and I also thought about using the Golden Eagle Water Pump as the pump, do any of you with experience in A/W setups think what I have will suffice for 800ish hp and possibly more if I put a tranny in the car and a bigger turbo?

Will the heat exchanger keep my IAT's roughly where they would be at if I was running an Air to Air setup around town without adding ice to the A/W system?

 

You'll want around 40-55 GPM for best thermal transfer properties. That is dependant on your coolant water too.... Build the biggest resivoir you can fit.

You should be good with your IAT's. The fan should help out when you drive on the street, but ice will be your best bet. I have no experience with the fan setup....

Once you get setup you can do some simple math to figure out your core's effeciency. You'll need an inlet air temp sensor and an outlet air temp sensor to do that along with the temp of the coolant water and turbo discharge temp. Basically you're checking the delta T across the core.

But what do I know....

 

Thanks for the reply, I am assuming there is an A/W setup in your car do you mind me asking what pump are you running? The GE pump moves 32gpm according to their site, I do not know the total capacity of the system I plan on running but I would guess in the 5-8gal area so I would be cycling the water 4 times a minute to be on the low side of the guesstimate.

Can dry ice be used? I am not sure what happens when you mix it with water/pressure lol I have a place that sells it right down the street from me...

I already have one GM IAT, I cant really see the point in adding a ton of sensors to my AEM when at that point I might as well get a Racepack and log everything I can, thats defiantely something to consider down the road when I decide to take the car off the street and make it a track only car.

 

DELETE

 

I am not sure, but my first thought is unless you are putting a BOV in the system, you are making a very expensive water bomb !!!

 

I have a A/W setup in my car, yes. I run the Meziere radiator mount (it's mounted to my water resivoir) w/ dual outlets. It flows 55gpm. It's no cheap pump though....

The GE unit if for the engine block that is why it flows 32gpm. I have the Meziere version of that too for my coolant.

Dry ice w/ water yields a vapor which will build pressure. If you have a way to eliminate the pressure (a lift valve) then you'd be good to go. I have to ask.... why would you use dry ice in a DD car? Typically A/W is not common for a daily car. You sure you want to do this? lol

 

yes but you have to run alcohol instead of water and you have to realise that you have a flamable fluid so treat your cooling system as if it were fuel.

 

definately not using dry ice then

 

i've seen a few guys on here use boat sump pumps in the reservoir, from what i read they move alot of gpm and are fairly inexpensive.

 

after reading whats needed to run thus far dosent it seem like a cheaper idea to cut up a $200 jdm rad support and run a air to air setup. contact AFI for info this is the only setup i could seem to find that i had saved in my pics. on another note hurry up and finish that baller setup.
edit i see that you posted in the thread

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/my-first-honda-build-custom-afi-turbo-kit-etc-2456946/

 

The rad support is brand new and it was $400+ shipping, I can't justify hacking it up.... Thanks for the link I forgot about that car.

 

I have a question, it may be dumb but who cares, Is it me or on some vehicle's like Tony's and Chris's I dont use a BOV with their A/W setup? they could be hiding it or not.


And if they done have one why not? is it not needed for the A/W setup?

 

my biggest concern with a/w is constant iat...will ecu compensate for example when u drop the ice u get colder air on ur second pass do u need more ice? if not wont air get too hot..since the water is gonna get the same temps as the engine? i see why a2w is superior to air to air but is it only for race cars??

 

There are quite a few racecars that don't run bov's.

 

Its definately something that should be used, but I dont think the Turbo's life expectancy is very high on these guys making 900+ and 40+psi so they just leave it off.... not to mention alot of people WOT shift their cars so its not really needed.

Most aftermarket ECU's have IAT compensations so the ECU will do the trims based on what is input into it.

Eventually the ice will melt and the water will start to heat up, just drain the water out of the bottom of the ice box and add fresh ice and top off with water and your good to go.

 

if im correct their dont need one because they full throttle shift. the ecu does the rest

 

Miller doesn't full throttle shift. He clutches it like a man. lol

The big thing to remember is that pressure is pressure, no matter what. It doesn't matter if you have A/W or A/A. That pressure has to go somewhere.... Without a BOV you risk compressor surge and killing the potential energy of the wheel.

There are many reasons for not using a BOV....