Alright, Ive searched like crazy and have tracked down several peoples opinions and solutions to what this problem might be, but none of it has worked. So I hope someone here can help me.

heres the issue, I was on my way the other day to pick my wife up from work, as soon as i pulled in to the parking lot my car dies. Its a 1992 Honda Accord LX. I was a little low on gas and thought maybe that could have been the problem, but the E-light wasnt on or anything. So I thought maybe my fuel gauge wasnt working properly. So i waited til she came out to try and start it again...and nothing....it started about an hour later and drove for about two blocks before dying again. its started 3 times since then but doesnt stay running.

So I checked to see if I could here the fuel pump kick in, couldnt here it so I thought that may be the problem. Turns out there is no spark either. So from there I went on to replace a few things.

List of things ive replaced:
Spark plugs
Plug wires
Dizzy Cap
Ignition Coil
Fuel Filter
ECU
and Main Relay

CAR IS STILL NOT STARTING and im completely stumped. I mean granted the ecu and main relay I replaced, I replaced with used parts, so they could also be in non-working condition if thats truly the problem...but everything else is brand new. If anyone else has ANY idea on what it could be, im open to suggestions! AND SORRY FOR SUCH A LONG POST!!! THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP!

 

Do you have fuel and spark?

If you do not have fuel test the fuel pump.
If you do not have spark try testing the ignitor (ICM).

You should never throw parts at a problem. There are usually ways to troubleshoot no start issues without replacing parts. The best money spent in a situation like this is to buy a $25-$35 Haynes manual for the 90-93 Accord. It will have all of the trouble shooting processes for the fuel pump and ignitor in it.

 

any upper bound on RPMs or is it normal and just dying?

checked for any electrical gremlins (shorts, etc) ? voltmeter ftw

 

http://techauto.tripod.com/

this site will help you before you spend any more money

 

Definitely resolder the main relay per the above post. Even if it doesn't look bad. Mine didn't look bad, but was causing a start then die situation.

 

Ignition Switch - electrical portion

 

Well according to something I read online, you can test the ignition switch, or at least to see if theres volts going to the ignition switch, through the plug in for the main relay. And all those tests passed??

 

FUSE

 

Three things that keeps a engine running; Fuel, Spark, and Timing.

 

Alright, got the car running, igniter was bad. Thanks for the the help guys, but now I have another problem, with the car running i cant shift from park to anyother gear, I can use the shift lock release button and put it in neutral and start it, and shift from there and the car drives fine, but wont shift out of park. Anyone have any ideas on that? Im not very good with auto trans. Thanks again

 

Make sure that you have the Ignitor wires hooked up properly. The tack wire is connected to the TCU, it also requires this signal and may not go into gear without it??????? There is also the brake switch on the brake peddle that you can check. If it is disconnected or shorted it will not let you shift gears.

I'm not up on my automatic transmission troubleshooting but is the D4 light on? You can get codes from the ECU/TCU the same way that you would do it for the check engine light codes.

There is a 2 wire connector, the service check connector (aka SCS short connector) that you short with a paper clip and the D4 light will flash if there are any stored transmission codes. Look up self diagnostic trouble shooting. I think you should be able to find the SCS connector method of getting the codes from the ECU. There is a DIY for it on H-T somewhere. If you can't find it I'm sure someone will post a link to it.

 

Thanks, I know where that is. My D4 light isnt on, but i might as well check it. As far as another symptom goes my brakes lights light up with all the lights on, but dont actually light up when the brake pedal is depressed.

I havent checked the Brake switch yet for power, but i do know that rubber piece that goes through the hole in the pedal shaft is still intact. Could the switch be bad and could that be my transmissions issue for not shifting out of park as well? I just want to be as close to 100% before I spend anymore money. thanks for any info.