need help from people with experience on machined heads.
i have a gsr head milled .03" and i can not get the car to come close to being timed.
Well i thought maybe it'd pull itself through, but nope, no luck, just cranks and the occasional minute firing, but no go.
obviously, in stock, the cam (lets call it: point A) is a set distance to the crank (point B). And the set distance (distance C) is calculated and the timing belt is that distance C. Head gets milled, Point A is closer to Point B and no compensation can be made to distance C. So when you make up for the slack, the crank is a little more forward til the timing belt is properly tensioned. How the heck can i make up for this. Because either way i move the timing/cams/crank, it has the crank being ~1/2 a tooth out in either set direction. so when normally timed, the crank is 1/2 a tooth ahead. and i can not make up for this.
what to do????
wants to fire, but just won't.
i believe i've seen some pretty far adjustments with a vibrant tensioner on other race cars. is that what people do?
not having a good week and im baffled,
idk... any help is appreciated. thanks.

 

put adjustable cam gears on it, dial in the cams, but the car should start even if it is a 1/2 tooth off

 

yea. has adjustable gears on it. hmmmmmm. so maybe im just overthinking or not thinkin at all. its at the same timing where i degreed the cams at. so it has to be on... so something else i guess ... thanks.

 

Do you have the engine grounded?

 

yea. everythings grounded. thought nothing would turn over if not. prolly just something dumb im over looking.

 

either adjust it from cam gear or get a vibrant t belt tensioner...

 

double check firing order. How much did you mill? 30 thou? if it's 30 thou milled, it will be APPROX. 2 degrees out at the gears.

 

I would go over everything, check ignition, prob something silly like you forgot to plug in dist plug... GL

 

.030 is alot to take off a head. whats the service limit on the head? i would have at least used a thicker headgasket to make up the diff. some. though it doesnt sound like thats why the car wont run. more than likely other issues

 

thanks for all the input guys. the timing is correct still, i just wasn't thinking. cuz if i got the timing matched up when i degreed the cam's, then the crank/cam timing HAS to be on. has spark, has fuel. everything is double checked. prolly just a tuning issue. its on the vurge of starting, just needs a little tweaking. i'm just frustrated and stopped thinking straight. hah. i think i just changed too much stuff for the current map to work i guess. it ran for half a sec and long enough for the engine to recognize a CEL and the only issue is the nonexistant 02 sensor so should be good to go and all will get straightened out when i get tuned. or being the great man that he is, John Kerr of J-K-Tuning will solve my problems for me

 

does this make the cams a little more advance than they normally would be, or retarded...im thinking retarded?

 

yea, it make the crank a little ahead of the cams, so i guess the cams would be retarded. and from what someone said up there, 30 thousandths would be 2 degrees, that sounds about right. cause i degreed the cams on a stock motor that was never milled at all. and when i switched um over to this milled head with the block that was decked when sleeved, i turned the cams back 3 degrees. so it all sounds right to me.

 

once again guys, thanks
i hate when i doubt myself n over think

 

kool my crank is a little ahead of my cams as well but no where near the shaving down of this guys head lol. I was planning on advancing my cams a degree each to make them closer to the correct position.

 

.25 IS RIGHT ON THE LIMITS TO DISCARD THE HEAD/

THERE IS A LIL TAB ON THE INTAKE MANI SIDE OF THE HEAD. TO SIDES ARE RAISED WITH CENTER DROPPED. WHEN YOU SHAVE IT THE RAISE PARTS COME CLOSER TO THE RECESSED PORTION THIS WILL SHOW YOU IT IS GARBAGE TIME

 

whats ur setup, im assuming you have aftermarket cams? i'd suggest degreeing them, thats the only accurate way. no two motors are the same.