at an extreme loss :(
OK so i own a 1999 honda accord, it was an automatic but i suffered from a blown transmission so i figured i'd do a conversion from automatic to manual. so i've been driving the car for a while and i realized my clutch pedal was getting stiff after a while from driving but would remain soft when sitting for a long time.so i read on a forum that washers were suppose to be placed on the clutch pedal and i had a friend do so and he adjusted it as well giving it "freeplay". but ever since then it seems as though i'm having serious issues with the clutch engaging....i have to literally slam my foot onto the pedal in order to shift
and when i'm at a dead stop going into first seems to be a pain i have to keep hitting my foot on the cltuch pedal or stomp onto it...i've read and researched and my friend is swearing up and down its just a damaged clutch but something in my gut is telling me its not because i've had a stiff clutch pedal for a long time now and this clutch was replaced a month ago...from my research i've gathered that its probably a bad clutch cylinder, a leak somewhere in my line, or just a burned out clutch
has anyone had any bad experiences with this....any info or personal experience can help
and when i'm at a dead stop going into first seems to be a pain i have to keep hitting my foot on the cltuch pedal or stomp onto it...i've read and researched and my friend is swearing up and down its just a damaged clutch but something in my gut is telling me its not because i've had a stiff clutch pedal for a long time now and this clutch was replaced a month ago...from my research i've gathered that its probably a bad clutch cylinder, a leak somewhere in my line, or just a burned out clutch
has anyone had any bad experiences with this....any info or personal experience can help
When you did the swap, did you use new or used master and slave cylinders? was the throw out bearing replaced with clutch? How about the pressure plate? All those can cause problems with disengagement.
Agreed need more info. It is possible your friend put to much adjustment on the the clutch pedal. How did he measure the free play. It is meant to measure agenst metal floor not carpet.
Carpet will lower clearance by about anywhere from a .25"-.50"
Carpet will lower clearance by about anywhere from a .25"-.50"
The fact you haven't mentioned anything about fluid levels, clutch condition, flywheel conditional, etc is leading me to think you should drop this off for a professional to trouble shoot.
sound to me like the master cyl or the slave cyl or possibly u just have air in the system.
+1 to what The Muff..Man. Drop this off for a professional to trouble shoot. Or if you know how to bleed breaks. You can bleed at the slave cyl. The best way to bleed is to use clear rubber hose and a cup of fluid, push rubber hose on the bleeder valve and other end in a cup of fluid and pump the clutch until there is no air in rubber hose. This work best with two people. Hope this helps you.
+1 to what The Muff..Man. Drop this off for a professional to trouble shoot. Or if you know how to bleed breaks. You can bleed at the slave cyl. The best way to bleed is to use clear rubber hose and a cup of fluid, push rubber hose on the bleeder valve and other end in a cup of fluid and pump the clutch until there is no air in rubber hose. This work best with two people. Hope this helps you.
Just because it was replaced does not mean it was replaced properly or what its current status is - which is what I was getting at.
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OP: Is the clutch master cylinder the original style (plastic), or it is the upgraded aluminum type? Honda discontinued the use of the CMC's with plastic housing because they proved to be so problematic. If the parts you swapped when you went from A/T to M/T are the original plastic ones, I would say that it could very well be the CMC. I just had this upgrade quoted from Honda and its $457.30 for the new designed CMC, Slave, Damper Tube, and all the x-rings and clips that go with it.
EDIT: Thats $457.30 for the parts...that doesn't include labor.
EDIT: Thats $457.30 for the parts...that doesn't include labor.
OP: Is the clutch master cylinder the original style (plastic), or it is the upgraded aluminum type? Honda discontinued the use of the CMC's with plastic housing because they proved to be so problematic. If the parts you swapped when you went from A/T to M/T are the original plastic ones, I would say that it could very well be the CMC. I just had this upgrade quoted from Honda and its $457.30 for the new designed CMC, Slave, Damper Tube, and all the x-rings and clips that go with it.
EDIT: Thats $457.30 for the parts...that doesn't include labor.
EDIT: Thats $457.30 for the parts...that doesn't include labor.
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