aem 30-1020 box moded for epm cop=probs??
anyone do this swap yet with out issues? i cant get this figured out even with the help of aem {if that means anything} basically car doesnt want to start all times and when u shut it off it back fires when the key passes the aux ...also the wireing diagram that came with the aem epm cop are 100% wrong but aem gave me the newer wireing and still having issues ...i put the msd and dizzy back in a and run flawless wtf...
Did you have the jumpers in the box fixed.I know alot of the older boxes had to have jumpers switched inside.I had to replace my 30-1010 box a few days ago myself and I am running a similar setup.
I thought with the older boxes, when you swap the jumpers for COP setup, it wouldnt work correctly with the stock style Distributor.
If you are saying it wont fire correctly with the COP setup, But will with the distributor setup then I would believe the jumpers have not been set up for COP ?
If you are saying it wont fire correctly with the COP setup, But will with the distributor setup then I would believe the jumpers have not been set up for COP ?
Well I dont know the jumpers off hand myself but Tony1 and few other guys on here do and if you arent afraid to open up the box to check yourself before sending it back to aem and waiting for weeks you can check it yourself
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like i said i can get the car to start and run even blast the shiz out of it on the dyno but when you go to shut it off with the key and pass accesories on the ignition switch it back fires
So cars starts fine ? drives fine ? But when you shut it off it backfires ?
Its burning off excess fuel thats left in the combustion chamber. ( maybe ignition turns off, but injectors are still on for a bit so you experience a backfire ).
explained a little clearer :
ignition off, injectors on, then injectors off but ignition comes on for a second ( with excess fuel to burn ) then -- bam you have a backfire.
If its something like this then can be idle tuning ? Does the car idle good ?
Whats your injector sizes ? also do you have a wideband display ?
yes the car was timed,, even straped to a dyno and hit with 28psi boost ran clean but when you turn it off it back fires only when passing ignition 2 position for a split second you could even have the igniton in the on position for a few minutes after the car is shut off and no backfire but once you turn the key all the way back to take it out it backfires
So cars starts fine ? drives fine ? But when you shut it off it backfires ?
Its burning off excess fuel thats left in the combustion chamber. ( maybe ignition turns off, but injectors are still on for a bit so you experience a backfire ).
explained a little clearer :
ignition off, injectors on, then injectors off but ignition comes on for a second ( with excess fuel to burn ) then -- bam you have a backfire.
If its something like this then can be idle tuning ? Does the car idle good ?
Whats your injector sizes ? also do you have a wideband display ?
Its burning off excess fuel thats left in the combustion chamber. ( maybe ignition turns off, but injectors are still on for a bit so you experience a backfire ).
explained a little clearer :
ignition off, injectors on, then injectors off but ignition comes on for a second ( with excess fuel to burn ) then -- bam you have a backfire.
If its something like this then can be idle tuning ? Does the car idle good ?
Whats your injector sizes ? also do you have a wideband display ?
Check wiring, to me it doesn't sound like the ecu anymore. ( atleast not directly )
Coils getting power for a second and burning off what ever fuel is left in the cylenders.
pull the coil, arc it with the cars body or something metal when the car is in the off, and as you move the key out ( passing it through the ignition as you say ). See if there is any power going through them.
Or better yet , check to see if the coils are seeing power for a split second ( probably safer , but I havent done this personally so cant recommend you how ).
Coils getting power for a second and burning off what ever fuel is left in the cylenders.
pull the coil, arc it with the cars body or something metal when the car is in the off, and as you move the key out ( passing it through the ignition as you say ). See if there is any power going through them.
Or better yet , check to see if the coils are seeing power for a split second ( probably safer , but I havent done this personally so cant recommend you how ).
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Spoolin18
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