after doing a compression test (which came out good), and a wet comp test. me and my instructor decided to do a vacuum test.

we used the vacuum source that ran to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail, test was good, although guage was broken, it did indicate good vacuum.

after we turned the car off, it would no longer turn over, but would crank.

checked the dizzy and found there was no spark (and couldnt disconnect the connector for it)

after checking all the fuses, all were good havent got to check the main relay on the side of the fuse box.

any of you guys got an idea of what could have happen? thanks all

 

its probably your coil. when you were doing the tested did you disconnect the distributor? if not you fried the coil. it happens often. then you take away a path to ground for the coil it will over heat and short out. try ohming out the coil and see if it is within spec. my guess is it wont be and you will need a coil. good luck.

 

How did you check the distributor? Make sure the thermostat, valve cover and battery grounds are ok.

 

Darktuner is correct, you fried your coil. Your suppose to do the compression test cranking either by remote start on the starter with key in off position. Or you can use the key but disconnect the power supply to the distributor/coil pack.

 

i disconnected power from the ecu by pulling the ecu fuse under the hood

AFTER i did my compression test, i did a running compression test on cyl #4 AND a vacuum test after that, car started no problems

 

Bump for some more help.

Did some tests with my multimeter and found that both ignition coil and ignition control module were reading within spec, yet the coil still wasn't giving spark

instructor recomended a new dizzy altogether but since I'm broke. An ignition coil would do.

Do you guys think it could my dizzy cap not getting the spark? Or my coil needs replacing? Also checked for spark at wires. And didn't get any

 

ok here is an easy test. take you dmm and take the distributor off the head. take the cap off but leave the harness attached to the distributor. take the screws off the coil wires and attach your dmm or a test light, a DSO (digital storage oscilloscope) works best for this. but hook it up to the power and ground from the coil (with the wires not attached to the coil) and with the key on turn the distributor. do you have a wave form? does the light turn on do you have voltage? if so then your coil is bad, if not then you might want to think about getting a new distributor. and if you cant tell i hate when there called dizzys

 

i've done similar with that, great info btw

we used a test light, i forget but i think we hooked up to the secondary winding terminal (the winding tip of the coil) and to the ground of the wire, cranked the engine, and the light started blinking. so is this similar to your test?

 

similar but from what i said you will be checking everything up to the coil and making sure it is good. because the power will be constant it will be the ground that is switch. so if you hook up a test light to a positive and hook the test light to the negative wire at the coil the test light should blink if it does blink but you still have no spark you need a coil. let me know how this test goes.

 

today, i'm going back into the shop, another one of my peers will bring his CB accord in and i'm gonna try his coil before i go buy one myself, will post at day's end

 

so what ever happened with this?

 

srry to never see this, i installed a new ignition coil and got it started up :D