on ebay i have found a package with blox type c cams, blox dual springs, andblox retainers for $515 brand new.
i also found blox adjustable am gears for $170 brand new.

is there anything i am forgetting? wanna make sure i have eveythin so i can do it all at once wiout stopping. and i know i dont need the adjustable gearas but i want them to get as good of a tune as pssible.

 

You'll definitely need adjustable cam gears with those cams. Make sure the AEM have more than 3 bolts. Otherwise it might be worthwhile to save up for better ones that will be less likely to slip. Make sure to budget for a tune.

Those cams are fairly aggressive, and I'm not sure how they'll run on stock compression. It would be worth asking the all motor forum. You might honestly be better of with B's unless you are above 11:1.

Enjoy those cams -- they'll make 220 whp on a good build.

 

here is a slightly better deal.... you have a choice between the c's and the a's...
http://jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.a...idproduct=3958

 

You might want to get new valve stem seals, cam seals, timing belt, water pump, valve cover gasket set and do a proper valve adjustment.

 

you would be surprised at what c's can do at exactly 11:1, there was a dyno thread in all motor that picked up some 20whp on a stock jdm itr with blox c's a good exhaust and a tune.

to the OP get skunk2 pro's, crower or toda for the cam gears. barely more money than blox and better designed.

 

^^^

But what do you think they would do at 10:1? I was assuming the OP had a GS-R with stock bottom end. This is something I'm curious about myself since I don't have plans for new pistons any time soon.

 

I have a stock b18c1 and i wanna do a mild build nothing too aggressive and i think im going to go with the blox type b cams just to be on the safe side. I would like to be right around 200whp

 

hey thanks for the link! same place i found mine i just went through ebay and it as 15 bucks more. thankyou for that.

okay thanks.

i will lookinto those cam gears, thanks man.

And hey thanks for all the input guys.

81.5mm B18C1
B16 Head
ITR Pistons
Micro Polished Crank
Skunk2 Pro Series IM
70mm TB
RMF Narrow Type Header
HI-Flow Cat
YS1 Cable Trans
F1 Stage 3 Clutch
Fidanza Flywheel
Moroso 5QT Steel Single Wet Sump (Factory Oil Pick-Up)
Focuz 10.2mm Plug Wires
NGK Iridium Spark Plugs
SpeedFactory Tune

Hasport motor mounts set it quite nicely in my 1988 Honda CRX DX.

 

I'd keep the B18C1 head and use the money you save to have it ported. Also, the TB may be overlarge. You might want to stay at or under 68 mm, but don't quote me on that. You could also get an Exedy Stg1 clutch and put your savings elsewhere. If you do get those pistons you would be fine with C cams if those are what you want. Should be a nice build, and could net nearly 220 whp.

 

if the cams have a higher lift to it, you may need a thicker head gasket, to avoid valve to piston contact. just a thought

 

your thinking is correct about checking for valve to piston contact but the method is not. doing this will lower his compression even more.

 

i'm really not sure but i do know you could increase compression when that head comes off for the new valve train by using flat faced valves and minor shaving. flat faced valves and .010 off the head should get you somewhere over 10:5-1 on a stock gsr bottom end which should really help out those C's.

 

hey, ummm.. i already have all that stuff. so, too late to change tho. thx.

this compression talk. i should be at 9.0:1 ight now with the type r pistons right? correct me if im wrong. so what compression should i be at before these cams and what would the cams change it too?

 

lose the iridium plugs and run a colder ngk copper plug.. also i had a friend run the same setup with a stage 2 tunners and made 194. throw 2 1/4 piping and a mugen twin loop which restricted the motor. and you might wana go to a slightly small t/b

 

why a colder plug?

 

I heard Blox cams round off after time.

 

with more compression you would want to go with a colder plug plus personal experience with two iridums breaking on the dyno. also copper plugs put out a better spark while iridiums and platinums are based on longevity

 

if you dont tighten the cam caps according to blox.... it happens to all cams if you dont follow instructions

 

oh okay cool. thanks. did not know that.

but right now, with just stock b16 cams, im good running iridiums? cuz of my ITR pistins my compression is pretty low. so youre suggesting that when i do the cams, i switch to NGK coppers?

 

hey no need to hate, we're all friends here =]

 

check this site out for your compession its just a base un less you know how much the head is milled and the block is decked and other factors with finding out true compression
http://www.zealautowerks.com/bseries.html

 

sick website! thanks bro.

as far as i know the head was never milled and the block was never decked.

it is telling me...

10.9:1 compression.

i set it to stock GS-R and its telling me 10.09:1 compression

which i believe is correct? i think stock GS-R's are spec'd as 10:1? so with my set up and the compression being raised a little, it sounds like a good place to be for an N/A build.

 

it has potential but tuning and will be the big factor... if you plan porting the head talk to this guy http://www.cccylinderheads.com/main.html

 

thanks for all the links man. youre a big help.

whether or not i port and polish the head resides on how much $ it costs me.