The welded nut for the rear camber kit bolts breaks loose from the firewall. It usually happens when you install an aftermarket camber kit and you put the 14mm bolt in wrong. The welded nut usually breaks from the firewall on the inside. How do you fix this?

As you can see, both of the nut that is welded on to the back is broken off


I was thinking of using a thread repair such as Helicoil but the wall is too thin


I bought this nut from autozone. Its a m10 x 1.25 nut. This is the same one that was welded onto the inside of the wall.


I dont understand why Honda decided to weld a nut on the back when they know its going to break off sometime soon. And make it worst when you cant even gain access to the back of the firewall to fix it.

What would you welders do for a situation like this? I was thinking of drilling the 2 holes a little bigger so that the nut that I bought from autozone could fit inside it. Then have a welder weld the nut inside the hole. Is this possible? any other suggestions?

 

thats the way to do it but i suggest you get a nut with a shoulder on it makes life easier

 

I'd beef it up a bit. Take a piece of 1/4" x 1" x 1" flat bar, drill it out and weld that nut to it. Then cut out the area around that hole and weld the new 1" x 1" in place. Won't break again that way atleast.

 

If you're gunna do that why not just thread the FB itself instead of welding another nut on that will probably break off.

 

Because it would be simpler to weld on a heat treated nut, instead of going through the process of heat treating a threaded mild steel plate.

 

Mind explaining to me why you would have to bother to heat treat the piece? If you're just using crs, you shouldn't need to. I've made threaded blocks out of crs similar in a way to what op has that were used specifically for dropping and holding in a 20ton ship engine. They didn't need to be heat treated.

 

In the pics, I see there is another panel through the hole the where the nut usually is. Right? If you drill into that panel from the outside, will you make your way into the trunk. If so, just nut and bolt the thing with no welding necessary. I'm sure it's risky but if it works, it'll be the least amount of work, I believe. I'll look in my here at lunch and update later.

 

actually if it was that simple I would have cut through my trunk already. However its a separate wall. Even if you cut the trunk, there will still be another wall that separates it. here are some more pictures.

As you can see I tried going under and cutting a square from the bottom. Therefore I can put a ratchet inside and have it hold onto the nut and tighten it. But I stopped cutting because I had second thoughts



You can see (from underneath near the gas tank) that from the back side there is no access to the bolt. So for people with similar problems dont go inside your trunk and cut. Its a separate wall.

 

I see your dilemma. Your pics show that it looks like some sort of frame rail. What about drilling through any way, with a smaller bit to see where it comes out and then drilling bigger if it looks possible. Maybe a long bolt through it?

 

yes I actually tried doing that.. I took a drill and stuck it into one of the holes and drilled outside to the back wall but then I realized that it comes out the back and close to the gas tank hoses so that kinda scared me. I would actually have to remove my whole gas tank in order to access it. You can see it on the right side. I also thought about cutting the bottom part and sticking a ratchet inside to hold a bolt or nut while I tighten it. But I figured that a welder would have a better solution. So Ill hold onto that thought for now

 

I would want a grade 8 heat treated nut on there. Whether you do or not is your prerogative.

 

yeah Im looking for one.. grade 8 or higher at least

 

Cool man. Yeah maybe cutting the bottom open and using a ratchet wrench maybe easy. Either way, good luck and let us know how you figure it out.

 

i had this happen on an old CRX of mine. i carefully cut a hole big enough for a wrench to fit in, so I could hold the nut while I screwed the bolt in. just make sure you seal it up good to prevent rust from coming back and haunting you.

i imagine there are other ways to fix this, but i didnt have many tools. and it was in my garage with work to drive to on monday.

 

Nutsert

 

exactly what I had in mind but I will make this my final resort instead. There are very good suggestions on my other thread. Im thinking rivet nuts or nutserts.

 

Bingo! now I need to find a dealer that sells a m10 x1.25 and not a m10 x1.50.

m10 x 1.25 = Asia
m10 x 1.50 = European

They are very very similar though. Do you know where I can walk into a store to get some nutserts or rivnuts?

 

Don't worry if it is M10-1.5 just use an M10-1.5 bolt now.

 

check aircraftspruce.com

 

i never heard of nutserts before, they look very cool! what keeps them from falling back in to the frame if you ever take the bolt out again?

 

I think its something like this and this is how it works. These are rivnuts btw but I think they are the same thing

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SN7w_...layer_embedded

 

all honda nuts r welded by spot welding robots, they prolly didint intend for them to break since they pass all test done at the plant.

also they prolly didint consider the part being on the inside and unreachable once installed.

i worked for hondas welding plant, they are not supposed to break.

 

yeah well maybe my car is just old. Btw since you worked at the plant, do you know if there is any way to access the nuts from the inside?

 

nah i i dont assemble them i just operate the robot. the parts get shipped from my department to another then welded to another chasis part which is then sent and welded to the actual chasis. There is no way to know if there is and i honestly dont know much about welding, the robots were all automatic, they just place nuts n bolts n do spot welds.

but i can tell you i had this happen on my integra, u need to drill out the bolt if there is one stuck in there. then retap the hole and use an oversize bolt with thread locker,(RED)

and there isnt anyway to get behind there i doubt because the entire underbody and side frames r completly sealed.

and ur car doesnt have to be old, maybe ur car took a heavy hit in tha tarea, or the bolt was put in wrong causing twist/force, which breaks alot of things, only other excuse i can tell u is ur part that was made by the plant wasn't prolly checked due to they use alot oftemps and their there only for fridays check, they dont do most of the test cause they dont plan on keeping the job.

so alot of unchecked bad parts go out the door as well as good ones.
most temps dont watch the heat and water jets on the robots which need constant attention because of the numerous amount ofwelds it doesn, they are old and tend to not do exactly the same thing over n over like their usposed too, so some welds r weaker then others. for example, each nut has 4 welds, sometimes they come out with two, and if not checked they get sent out, which will fail cause the proper amount of welds rnt intact and its weak.

hang in there, you'll get it man

also if u can find locktite GREEN use that over the red. if u decide to go the way of retaping the hole.

you can use set bolts that dont need a nut to hold it in place.

green is hard to find cause once it bonds it doesnt come off EVER.

only other thing i can tell u is cut out a hole enough to fit you hand in and do the repair, then weld the hole u cut out back over with metal and use ashphault truck bedl iner over the area so ittl look like u didint even do anything and ittl be protected aswell.

its a bitch i know i been here.

 

if you use the rivnut you will need to measure the thickness of the metal you are putting it in.this is called the grip range.then you will need a squeezer.they are expensive.but you can use a bolt and double nut to squeeze it.