Complicated Ignition Problem
After my car stalled out on the road a few days ago, I am no longer getting any spark and cannot get my engine started.
I have gotten my ignition module tested at Autozone and also did this test (http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...r-testing.html). Both passed.
I have replaced the ignition coil and also the main relay to no avail.
So after more troubleshooting, I found that the wire connecting to the spade pictured below is getting ~12 volts when ignition is on ACCESSORIES. When I try to crank, this voltage goes to about ~10 volts.

However, if I manually ground this spade to the negative terminal on the battery, I get spark!
According to the diagram pictured below, the ECU is the one controlling this voltage (its the yellow/green wire)

Does this mean I should replace the ECU? From what I've read, ECUs don't normally need replacing. Anyone else have similar issues?
EDIT: Forgot to mention, the car is a 2000 Civic EX D16Y8
I have gotten my ignition module tested at Autozone and also did this test (http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ignit...r-testing.html). Both passed.
I have replaced the ignition coil and also the main relay to no avail.
So after more troubleshooting, I found that the wire connecting to the spade pictured below is getting ~12 volts when ignition is on ACCESSORIES. When I try to crank, this voltage goes to about ~10 volts.

However, if I manually ground this spade to the negative terminal on the battery, I get spark!
According to the diagram pictured below, the ECU is the one controlling this voltage (its the yellow/green wire)

Does this mean I should replace the ECU? From what I've read, ECUs don't normally need replacing. Anyone else have similar issues?
EDIT: Forgot to mention, the car is a 2000 Civic EX D16Y8
Last edited by RyanJC; Dec 28, 2009 at 08:33 PM.
Only replace your ECU if it is throwing CEL codes that cannot be over ridded.
Check your ground connections and distributor sensors as well.
If not PM me and ill talk to my mechanic and see what he says can be the problem
Check your ground connections and distributor sensors as well.
If not PM me and ill talk to my mechanic and see what he says can be the problem
Just an update:
Apparently pulling the fuel pump fuse removes power to the ECU on connector B, which is where the yellow green wire connects to. After putting the fuse back in, it gets spark.
Apparently pulling the fuel pump fuse removes power to the ECU on connector B, which is where the yellow green wire connects to. After putting the fuse back in, it gets spark.
I inspected all that, from what you did, on my dizzy, too. What I found out that the 2 of the wires where corroded and splitted apart; yellow/green wire and solid orange. I ended up soldering it together and shrink-wrapped it. And the engine started again.
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