Is there a trick to getting a good compression seal.. I have a D16z and wanted to know is there any tricks to having the block milled flat.. Or head.. So guy told me that there got to be some kind of ridges to be made.. I didnt know what he was talking about he said its not supposed to be milled with one pass like most every one does it.. Well just give me your .02 cent on this.. Since i am going to have mine block milled so i can get on with my project.. effin cylinder pressure.

Next question is what slicks should i get for my D 23" 7.5 wide 15" are those good or should i go bigger will 7.5" wide get traction.. I really wanted a set of 24.5" 8" 15

 

24.5 x 8.5x15 may be too much on your d. depending on the power level.
the 23 may work better with the power and gearing. as far as the width, 7, 7.5 i dont think that will matter too much.

also how much higher do you want your compression?
why not do it right? put some pistons that can put the squeeze on a little better.

 

[QUOTE=boostedcivicsir;41044914]24.5 x 8.5x15 may be too much on your d. depending on the power level.
the 23 may work better with the power and gearing. as far as the width, 7, 7.5 i dont think that will matter too much.

also how much higher do you want your compression?
why not do it right? put some pistons that can put the squeeze on a little better.[/QUOTE

http://turbod16.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=46709&hilit= Motor is built..

So i should go with the 23/7.5/15 what do you guys think will this be good for mid 11sec or should i go with the 24.5/8/15 will these clear my 89 civic si fenders.. I can adjust the ride height.

 

just get the 24.5s

i was spinning my H&M 23x8x13s really bad off the line all year. around 300-320whp on pump, or 11.3@120mph.

not sure what you mean about the resurfacing? maybe step decking it?

 

I watched the vid that John Edwards @ Costa mesa R&D when he decks the inline four cylinder honda/sr20.. I don't see him doing any thing beside just taking of a little bit of at a time in on cut.. This is how my machine shop buddy will do it take a little cut off at a time single cut... But i talked to some person and he mention something about setting ridges like step cutting so it would hold the gasket in place so it doesn't move around even tho the dowels are there... Is there any truth to this statement about the step deck creating ridges in the head so it would hold the gasket in place.. Here is a vid of a 1.8L being decked..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkpd1iKi4uI&feature=fvw Just wondering if there was any tricks to getting a good seal besides having the block and head parallel to the center line of the crankshaft..


I all ready had the head milled flat and used a new y8 3 layer honda gasket it held for a little bit but after a while it started over heating and the coolant started pushing out.. I dont drive the car any more its been a month now and i will pull the motor out in the next week i should be doing it now but am taking a rest... I have ordered 2 new y8 gaskets they are at honda and will picked them up soon. I have the arp head studs torqued to 70LBS MAX..

Thanks for helping Danz and i will go with the 24.5 8wide 15" i had a good deal on some 23" 7.5wide 15".. will the 24.5 fit under the fenders or will i have to raise the car more then stock height.. Or will they fit perfectly..

 

Any one have experience with milling heads..Blocks

 

the 24s should fit fine unless ur slammed.

PM JFK78 about the step deck i believe he had it done to his last block.


IMHO if your machine shop doesnt know what you are talking about chances are they wont do what you want correctly.

i ran my KP head gasket (3 layer MLS made in Japan) over 30psi without issues... tq'd my ARPs to 65ftlb. Must have been something else wrong with your setup to be having re-occurring head gasket issues

 

Never heard of this gasket...