whats up!

i have some questions everyone, im building my b18a1 block and i cannot decide what piston to use. b16a or b16b ctr pistons.

My block is all stock from factory as of right now and im gonna get it miled down wont that already raise my compression?

Also I been hearing with ctr pistons ill have to race gas? I don't really want to do that.

Let me know what would be your choice. I am building an LS/V all motor , motor. So let me know I am gonna go with the b16a head.

Where can I purchase oem b16a pistons and piston rings etc.?

Do you think CP pistons would be better than oem??

 

I would run either ITR pistons or PR3's.

Decking the block is not a wise way to raise compression, IMO. I've heard it messes with the cam timing because it brings the head closer to the block.

As far as race gas, I dont think you'll need anything higher than 93 w/CTR's.

Ebay has OEM pistons w/rings and wrist pins. I believe Nippon makes OE replacement pistons.

If you're going all motor I would stick with OEM piston and rod. Due mostly to cost and the fact forged; while stronger weigh more. More weight hurts when you're relying on rev's to make power. With that said use OEM LS rods, have the machine shop install the ARP bolts in them and then have some PR3 (b16a) pistons pressed on/installed. New bearings, gaskets and I believe your set.

LSvtec? or NA LS?

 

what would be the best choice? PR3 or itr pistons.. straight up!
So I should just drop all the ebay **** with CP pistons and golden eagle rods? haha..

The reason I think I have to mil the block because cylinder one has a crack where its suppose to be smooth.. and i need them to fix that.. so i believe it needs to milled down..

What would you do buy a new block? Yeah Ima get some ARP rod bolts.. Then should I get acl main and rod bearings or acl race ones?

So I can juse use the rods I have in the block now even though there over 200k? Also should I get the shot peened?

This is where I am stuck If I build my block would an all motor ls pull hard?

 

I'd use PR3's. I wouldnt use CP pistons/Eagle rods on an all motor setup "straight up".

"milling' the block will not fix a cracked sleeve, no matter how little the crack is. Get a new block, make sure to get the main caps though.

I used standard ACLs in my B20V.

Yea you can use the stock rods, the machine shop will measure both big end and little end to make sure they're in spec. find a trust worthy machine shop and you'll be set.

Would an all motor LS pull hard? I guess, waste of money in my opinion. You'll make more power building the block as planned and putting a STOCK b16 head on it. All motor LS' are more pointless then any other all motor build, IMO.

 

Can you please explain more on what you meant by having a machine shop instal the ARP rod bolts. Cant you do it youreself..? Will i be able to install them on b20 rods by my self.
Thanks

 

No. You can not install the bolts yourself. the big end has to be resized/reconditioned after they're installed. Something you can not do.

Call any machine shop in your area, they'll be able to elaborate a little better than I can.

 

Why not grab some after market pistons?
CTR's will yield more compression.
Milling the head isn't a great thing to do as XThread mentioned.

Def won't have to use race gas.

Honestly I am not trying to be rude but from your questions I can tell you have a lot to learn. Spend some time researching here on HT and learn. That way YOU can make the best choices for YOU.

Good luck!

 

He was talking about milling or decking the block, not the head. Due to a cracked sleeve...

 

Dang learned something new today. How much does this service cost.

 

this is what im trying to fix..
so i should just buy a new block ?

Here a pic .. thanks for the help.. I have alot of learn but I know quite of bit. Im just lazy as hell to type because I work long days but I just need some advice..

 

From the looks of that last cylinder where you have circled its been leaking coolant/water for some time which has rusted the sleeve. Looks like time for a new block to me, if you have any kind of crack there milling will NOT fix it.

 

Call a machine shop, price probably varies.

 

last one i built, it was 20 bucks per rod to mount the pistons and the ARP bolts in the LS rods.. that is about average

 

New block.. dont waste your time.. it MAY be cool for a while, or MAYBE even a long while.. but building a motor is too expensive to go on "maybe's"...

Dont push the maybe, baby.. hahahaha

 

...my machine shop was a little cheaper, well a lot cheaper. But yea, that might be an average in California.

good luck on your build, as I said if the sleeve is cracked get a new block. dont chance it. **** adds up quick when building engines. nickel and dime... nickel and dime.

 

really? like, how much cheaper? i mean, they did the works on the rods.. pistons and arp installed, cleaned and everything, was 80 bucks out the door, and i had them back the next morning..

unless you are buddybuddy with someone at the shop, expect to pay around 10-20 bucks per rod for piston and stud install

just pistons is usually, like 5-10 bucks each.. should be the same if you are just getting arps thrown in

 

$6 for bolts; per rod included resize/recondition
$7 to press pistons onto rods; per rod

...something like $52 for everything (concerning arps, rods and pistons).

They also balanced every piece of the rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, Fluidampr), bore/hone (84.5mm) and cleaned my block and measured the main and rod journals on crank, block, and rods.

Total bill was $316 w/tax... Cheapest in my area by far. But alas, what does it matter. He needs to wait til after the holiday to call a local machine shop and get a quote for everything he will need done. Combating prices over the internet from people who are in two completely different regions will not help him in anyway.

 

thats a great deal.. i usually get all that done for around 350-375.. the work is REALLY good, too.. but yeah.. you totally got the hookup

 

I didnt get a hook up... lol that's their normal prices.

 

well, you go to a better shop than me.. hahaha.. but yeah.. good work is good work..

 

You seem knowledgeable in this build. I'm doing this build now. For the guy that posted this thread. If you don't want to spend a good chunk of money then don't even try it. Arp head and rod bolts. Shot peen the stock ls rods. Mill the connecting side of the rod 1mm on each side for the piston to fit. Get a basemap for the first start up and dyno tune it and you'll be fine. Otherwise your testing your luck. 93 May be good may not be. If you tune it you can run 91