ctr piston and race gas
12-24-2009, 09:44 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
ctr piston and race gas
whats up!
i have some questions everyone, im building my b18a1 block and i cannot decide what piston to use. b16a or b16b ctr pistons.
My block is all stock from factory as of right now and im gonna get it miled down wont that already raise my compression?
Also I been hearing with ctr pistons ill have to race gas? I don't really want to do that.
Let me know what would be your choice. I am building an LS/V all motor , motor. So let me know I am gonna go with the b16a head.
Where can I purchase oem b16a pistons and piston rings etc.?
Do you think CP pistons would be better than oem??
i have some questions everyone, im building my b18a1 block and i cannot decide what piston to use. b16a or b16b ctr pistons.
My block is all stock from factory as of right now and im gonna get it miled down wont that already raise my compression?
Also I been hearing with ctr pistons ill have to race gas? I don't really want to do that.
Let me know what would be your choice. I am building an LS/V all motor , motor. So let me know I am gonna go with the b16a head.
Where can I purchase oem b16a pistons and piston rings etc.?
Do you think CP pistons would be better than oem??
12-24-2009, 10:11 AM
#2
Re: ctr piston and race gas
I would run either ITR pistons or PR3's.
Decking the block is not a wise way to raise compression, IMO. I've heard it messes with the cam timing because it brings the head closer to the block.
As far as race gas, I dont think you'll need anything higher than 93 w/CTR's.
Ebay has OEM pistons w/rings and wrist pins. I believe Nippon makes OE replacement pistons.
If you're going all motor I would stick with OEM piston and rod. Due mostly to cost and the fact forged; while stronger weigh more. More weight hurts when you're relying on rev's to make power. With that said use OEM LS rods, have the machine shop install the ARP bolts in them and then have some PR3 (b16a) pistons pressed on/installed. New bearings, gaskets and I believe your set.
LSvtec? or NA LS?
Decking the block is not a wise way to raise compression, IMO. I've heard it messes with the cam timing because it brings the head closer to the block.
As far as race gas, I dont think you'll need anything higher than 93 w/CTR's.
Ebay has OEM pistons w/rings and wrist pins. I believe Nippon makes OE replacement pistons.
If you're going all motor I would stick with OEM piston and rod. Due mostly to cost and the fact forged; while stronger weigh more. More weight hurts when you're relying on rev's to make power. With that said use OEM LS rods, have the machine shop install the ARP bolts in them and then have some PR3 (b16a) pistons pressed on/installed. New bearings, gaskets and I believe your set.
LSvtec? or NA LS?
12-24-2009, 10:50 AM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Re: ctr piston and race gas
what would be the best choice? PR3 or itr pistons.. straight up!
So I should just drop all the ebay **** with CP pistons and golden eagle rods? haha..
The reason I think I have to mil the block because cylinder one has a crack where its suppose to be smooth.. and i need them to fix that.. so i believe it needs to milled down..
What would you do buy a new block? Yeah Ima get some ARP rod bolts.. Then should I get acl main and rod bearings or acl race ones?
So I can juse use the rods I have in the block now even though there over 200k? Also should I get the shot peened?
This is where I am stuck If I build my block would an all motor ls pull hard?
So I should just drop all the ebay **** with CP pistons and golden eagle rods? haha..
The reason I think I have to mil the block because cylinder one has a crack where its suppose to be smooth.. and i need them to fix that.. so i believe it needs to milled down..
What would you do buy a new block? Yeah Ima get some ARP rod bolts.. Then should I get acl main and rod bearings or acl race ones?
So I can juse use the rods I have in the block now even though there over 200k? Also should I get the shot peened?
This is where I am stuck If I build my block would an all motor ls pull hard?
12-24-2009, 11:06 AM
#4
Re: ctr piston and race gas
what would be the best choice? PR3 or itr pistons.. straight up!
So I should just drop all the ebay **** with CP pistons and golden eagle rods? haha..
The reason I think I have to mil the block because cylinder one has a crack where its suppose to be smooth.. and i need them to fix that.. so i believe it needs to milled down..
What would you do buy a new block? Yeah Ima get some ARP rod bolts.. Then should I get acl main and rod bearings or acl race ones?
So I can juse use the rods I have in the block now even though there over 200k? Also should I get the shot peened?
This is where I am stuck If I build my block would an all motor ls pull hard?
So I should just drop all the ebay **** with CP pistons and golden eagle rods? haha..
The reason I think I have to mil the block because cylinder one has a crack where its suppose to be smooth.. and i need them to fix that.. so i believe it needs to milled down..
What would you do buy a new block? Yeah Ima get some ARP rod bolts.. Then should I get acl main and rod bearings or acl race ones?
So I can juse use the rods I have in the block now even though there over 200k? Also should I get the shot peened?
This is where I am stuck If I build my block would an all motor ls pull hard?
"milling' the block will not fix a cracked sleeve, no matter how little the crack is. Get a new block, make sure to get the main caps though.
I used standard ACLs in my B20V.
Yea you can use the stock rods, the machine shop will measure both big end and little end to make sure they're in spec. find a trust worthy machine shop and you'll be set.
Would an all motor LS pull hard? I guess, waste of money in my opinion. You'll make more power building the block as planned and putting a STOCK b16 head on it. All motor LS' are more pointless then any other all motor build, IMO.
12-24-2009, 12:21 PM
#5
Re: ctr piston and race gas
I would run either ITR pistons or PR3's.
Decking the block is not a wise way to raise compression, IMO. I've heard it messes with the cam timing because it brings the head closer to the block.
As far as race gas, I dont think you'll need anything higher than 93 w/CTR's.
Ebay has OEM pistons w/rings and wrist pins. I believe Nippon makes OE replacement pistons.
If you're going all motor I would stick with OEM piston and rod. Due mostly to cost and the fact forged; while stronger weigh more. More weight hurts when you're relying on rev's to make power. With that said use OEM LS rods, have the machine shop install the ARP bolts in them and then have some PR3 (b16a) pistons pressed on/installed. New bearings, gaskets and I believe your set.
LSvtec? or NA LS?
Decking the block is not a wise way to raise compression, IMO. I've heard it messes with the cam timing because it brings the head closer to the block.
As far as race gas, I dont think you'll need anything higher than 93 w/CTR's.
Ebay has OEM pistons w/rings and wrist pins. I believe Nippon makes OE replacement pistons.
If you're going all motor I would stick with OEM piston and rod. Due mostly to cost and the fact forged; while stronger weigh more. More weight hurts when you're relying on rev's to make power. With that said use OEM LS rods, have the machine shop install the ARP bolts in them and then have some PR3 (b16a) pistons pressed on/installed. New bearings, gaskets and I believe your set.
LSvtec? or NA LS?
Thanks
12-24-2009, 12:26 PM
#6
Re: ctr piston and race gas
No. You can not install the bolts yourself. the big end has to be resized/reconditioned after they're installed. Something you can not do.
Call any machine shop in your area, they'll be able to elaborate a little better than I can.
Call any machine shop in your area, they'll be able to elaborate a little better than I can.
12-24-2009, 01:51 PM
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: ctr piston and race gas
Why not grab some after market pistons?
CTR's will yield more compression.
Milling the head isn't a great thing to do as XThread mentioned.
Def won't have to use race gas.
Honestly I am not trying to be rude but from your questions I can tell you have a lot to learn. Spend some time researching here on HT and learn. That way YOU can make the best choices for YOU.
Good luck!
CTR's will yield more compression.
Milling the head isn't a great thing to do as XThread mentioned.
Def won't have to use race gas.
Honestly I am not trying to be rude but from your questions I can tell you have a lot to learn. Spend some time researching here on HT and learn. That way YOU can make the best choices for YOU.
Good luck!
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12-25-2009, 07:37 PM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Re: ctr piston and race gas
this is what im trying to fix..
so i should just buy a new block ?
Here a pic .. thanks for the help.. I have alot of learn but I know quite of bit. Im just lazy as hell to type because I work long days but I just need some advice..
so i should just buy a new block ?
Here a pic .. thanks for the help.. I have alot of learn but I know quite of bit. Im just lazy as hell to type because I work long days but I just need some advice..
12-26-2009, 07:49 AM
#11
Re: ctr piston and race gas
From the looks of that last cylinder where you have circled its been leaking coolant/water for some time which has rusted the sleeve. Looks like time for a new block to me, if you have any kind of crack there milling will NOT fix it.
12-26-2009, 12:27 PM
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12-26-2009, 12:29 PM
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Re: ctr piston and race gas
Dont push the maybe, baby.. hahahaha
12-26-2009, 12:50 PM
#15
Re: ctr piston and race gas
...my machine shop was a little cheaper, well a lot cheaper. But yea, that might be an average in California.
good luck on your build, as I said if the sleeve is cracked get a new block. dont chance it. **** adds up quick when building engines. nickel and dime... nickel and dime.
good luck on your build, as I said if the sleeve is cracked get a new block. dont chance it. **** adds up quick when building engines. nickel and dime... nickel and dime.
12-26-2009, 12:56 PM
#16
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Re: ctr piston and race gas
...my machine shop was a little cheaper, well a lot cheaper. But yea, that might be an average in California.
good luck on your build, as I said if the sleeve is cracked get a new block. dont chance it. **** adds up quick when building engines. nickel and dime... nickel and dime.
good luck on your build, as I said if the sleeve is cracked get a new block. dont chance it. **** adds up quick when building engines. nickel and dime... nickel and dime.
unless you are buddybuddy with someone at the shop, expect to pay around 10-20 bucks per rod for piston and stud install
just pistons is usually, like 5-10 bucks each.. should be the same if you are just getting arps thrown in
12-26-2009, 01:38 PM
#17
Re: ctr piston and race gas
$6 for bolts; per rod included resize/recondition
$7 to press pistons onto rods; per rod
...something like $52 for everything (concerning arps, rods and pistons).
They also balanced every piece of the rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, Fluidampr), bore/hone (84.5mm) and cleaned my block and measured the main and rod journals on crank, block, and rods.
Total bill was $316 w/tax... Cheapest in my area by far. But alas, what does it matter. He needs to wait til after the holiday to call a local machine shop and get a quote for everything he will need done. Combating prices over the internet from people who are in two completely different regions will not help him in anyway.
$7 to press pistons onto rods; per rod
...something like $52 for everything (concerning arps, rods and pistons).
They also balanced every piece of the rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, Fluidampr), bore/hone (84.5mm) and cleaned my block and measured the main and rod journals on crank, block, and rods.
Total bill was $316 w/tax... Cheapest in my area by far. But alas, what does it matter. He needs to wait til after the holiday to call a local machine shop and get a quote for everything he will need done. Combating prices over the internet from people who are in two completely different regions will not help him in anyway.
12-26-2009, 02:09 PM
#18
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Re: ctr piston and race gas
$6 for bolts; per rod included resize/recondition
$7 to press pistons onto rods; per rod
...something like $52 for everything (concerning arps, rods and pistons).
They also balanced every piece of the rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, Fluidampr), bore/hone (84.5mm) and cleaned my block and measured the main and rod journals on crank, block, and rods.
Total bill was $316 w/tax... Cheapest in my area by far. But alas, what does it matter. He needs to wait til after the holiday to call a local machine shop and get a quote for everything he will need done. Combating prices over the internet from people who are in two completely different regions will not help him in anyway.
$7 to press pistons onto rods; per rod
...something like $52 for everything (concerning arps, rods and pistons).
They also balanced every piece of the rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, Fluidampr), bore/hone (84.5mm) and cleaned my block and measured the main and rod journals on crank, block, and rods.
Total bill was $316 w/tax... Cheapest in my area by far. But alas, what does it matter. He needs to wait til after the holiday to call a local machine shop and get a quote for everything he will need done. Combating prices over the internet from people who are in two completely different regions will not help him in anyway.
12-22-2014, 07:36 AM
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Re: ctr piston and race gas
I would run either ITR pistons or PR3's.
Decking the block is not a wise way to raise compression, IMO. I've heard it messes with the cam timing because it brings the head closer to the block.
As far as race gas, I dont think you'll need anything higher than 93 w/CTR's.
Ebay has OEM pistons w/rings and wrist pins. I believe Nippon makes OE replacement pistons.
If you're going all motor I would stick with OEM piston and rod. Due mostly to cost and the fact forged; while stronger weigh more. More weight hurts when you're relying on rev's to make power. With that said use OEM LS rods, have the machine shop install the ARP bolts in them and then have some PR3 (b16a) pistons pressed on/installed. New bearings, gaskets and I believe your set.
LSvtec? or NA LS?
Decking the block is not a wise way to raise compression, IMO. I've heard it messes with the cam timing because it brings the head closer to the block.
As far as race gas, I dont think you'll need anything higher than 93 w/CTR's.
Ebay has OEM pistons w/rings and wrist pins. I believe Nippon makes OE replacement pistons.
If you're going all motor I would stick with OEM piston and rod. Due mostly to cost and the fact forged; while stronger weigh more. More weight hurts when you're relying on rev's to make power. With that said use OEM LS rods, have the machine shop install the ARP bolts in them and then have some PR3 (b16a) pistons pressed on/installed. New bearings, gaskets and I believe your set.
LSvtec? or NA LS?
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