air/fuel ratio gauge installation Q.
its an autometer..i got tha gauge through a buddy for free so no instructions.. / :
but if i splice the wrong wire its no big deal rite? as long as i patch it up rite..??
but if i splice the wrong wire its no big deal rite? as long as i patch it up rite..??
i'm guessing your talking about a four wire o2 and not a 5wire vx , hx. in the case of the four wire o2 sensor it would be the white wire. that will display the sweep on your narrow band
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more bling than anything. but i got one too so..............
you'll only get an accurate reading at WOT
now i thought you were talkin bout the wires on the gauge. so what you should do, is run the purple to the wire going into the ecu, much easier than running a wire through the firewall and into the sensor wires.
heres a thread with a pinout for the p28 ecu you got, pin d14 is what you need to connect to.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/need-p28-ecu-pinout-fast-944353/
you'll only get an accurate reading at WOT
now i thought you were talkin bout the wires on the gauge. so what you should do, is run the purple to the wire going into the ecu, much easier than running a wire through the firewall and into the sensor wires.
heres a thread with a pinout for the p28 ecu you got, pin d14 is what you need to connect to.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/need-p28-ecu-pinout-fast-944353/
wat?
No you won't it's pretty much always accurate, it just doesn't tell you ****.
See
http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=390
No you won't it's pretty much always accurate, it just doesn't tell you ****.
See
http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=390
The ECU has no clue what's going on unless you're very close to stoichiometric. It's like running around with a paper bag over your head with a nickel sized hole to see out of.
Get a wide band or sell the gauge and buy more NOS stickers.
Get a wide band or sell the gauge and buy more NOS stickers.
Ie at WOT on high boost engine if you are 14.5:1 you are WAYYYY too lean, but guess what your silly narrowband still just says "rich". In other words, why the need for a gauge?
i understand all that, all im sayin is if its stoich, then it should read stoich on the gauge, instead of jumping from lean to stoich until WOT, which is why i said its inaccurate.
as for a need for the gauge, it does keep me awake during those long late night highway trips, and the bitches love the lightshow.
as for a need for the gauge, it does keep me awake during those long late night highway trips, and the bitches love the lightshow.
perhaps not. im no expert for sure.
i got mine for free as well, and installed it so i could have some heads up in case anything fuel related were to go bad.
i totally agree with ya, theyre pretty useless, but i fancy carbon fiber enough to not remove it.
i am interested in learning more about closed loop, if you dont mind explaining it a bit more through a pm id be very grateful.
so OP did you get it working?
i got mine for free as well, and installed it so i could have some heads up in case anything fuel related were to go bad.
i totally agree with ya, theyre pretty useless, but i fancy carbon fiber enough to not remove it.
i am interested in learning more about closed loop, if you dont mind explaining it a bit more through a pm id be very grateful.
so OP did you get it working?
Closed loop is the ECUs method of trying to stay as close to stoich as possible. Because it only has a narrrowband that tells it two things, RICH (<14.7:1) or LEAN (>14.7:1) so when you are LEAN it adds fuel trying get closer to stoich, once it changes to RICH it leans out the fuel until the o2 reports you are LEAN again thus oscillating in a never ending cycle. Under WOT it goes back to open loop and just uses the map. That's it in an nutshell.
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From: Pensacola, FL and every Court House in Louisiana
WHITE wire is the signal wire ... that gauge is junk and not to be used as a form of tuning on a narrowband sensor. that gauge is nothing but a light show nothing else
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A/F gauge with stock narrowband.

