I was just wondering what you guys though about this.. Im planning on going boost here soon. Im new to it and reliability is a very important factor to me. I was on synapsetrubo.com and was checkin out prices and such. Would this be over kill by building a B20b to make around 300-350hp?

This is what their built blocks come with and the upgrades I was checking out:
-Block bored to 81.5mm
-CP pistons with your choice of compression
-Eagle Rods
-Acl bearings
-New OEM oil pump
-Machined crank journal oil passages
-Assembled in house to the tightest tolerances

Benson sleeves (900$)
Eagle Rods (included)
Long Block Package (800$)
-OEM timing belt
-OEM tensioner
-OEM water pump
-OEM top end gasket set
-ARP head studs
-Attach head onto block
-Attach intake manifold
-Install cams*/timing belt

I would try and go by how many PSI id be running, but im not quite sure how much PSI it would take to reach my power goal. Also Id use hondata s300 for tuning, and run the peakboost kit. Also what would you guys recommend as far as injector size based on my power goals? All your help and input is much appreciated. Thanks
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I Have just about the same build im wokring on (B18B1 Though).Go with a Skunk 2 Mani, Spring retainers and some nice Cams. I got a P&P Head so it can Breath. With a Turbo Head work is your best friend. . And pick your turbo. I went wtih a GT35R and DSM 450cc Injectors. Cant wait till the rest of my **** comes in this week and than get it turned. Ill let you know what im puttin down.

 

yea let me know how that works out man.

 

If your doing a b20 its an 84mm bore

 

minus the machined crank, thats pretty much my settup (i have a full eagle roataing assembly)
and you should be able to make way more that 350hp,,,,a guy on another forum just put down 510hp with a built b18a1

 

Read up in the LS/turbo forum. Tons of people making 300+HP with their stock LS setups and staying reliable for along time. And try neptune for tuning. Also i would go with a least 750cc injectors for your power goals. Get a good turner !!!

 

build it as if u were trying to make 500 hp, then u will never have an issue. my 1968 barracuda has a 800hp 543 full roller motor, engine should b able to run nines, but im running a 10.80 class why? because it'll last when u dont push the limit.

 

Yup thats what i always say...better to be safe than sorry.

If you want 350-400, build it for 550-600. This way, the boost you are throwing at the motor to make 350 is easy to hold. You should always have a safety net.

Just for an example, i recently built my whole motor, top to bottom, and planning on boosting. Sleeves by Benson, forged internals, full headwork. Im looking for 380whp on the street, 500whp for the track. The motor is built for over 800+, so with 400whp on a daily basis, it will be ok

 

Jeff Evans no longer carries Neptune due to some problems the system was having. Ive been seeing more and more people stop carrying neptune. If such a great tuner no longer carries it because he believes there are better systems out there, i will trust his knowledge.

Use hondata s300, much better overall.

 

this is very helpful guys.. any more opinions?

 

One thing you must take into account when building a b20, is the fact that the sleeves are very weak past that 84mm limit. If you do put in new pistons, you most likely will have to bore/hone the sleeves in order to get a good clean fit.

The 84mm sleeves on b20 reach their limit at that diameter. This is why i say to put in fresh 84mm sleeves, which not only will be much stronger to hold the boost, but also give you the piece of mind to know that you will probably never need to crack open the block again.

Laskey Racing in CA deals primarily with Benson sleeves. Thats where i got my sleeves done, so if you ever need to talk to them directly, Mike is very helpful. If you choose to do some other sleeves, lets say AEBS or GE, there is not much of difference. They will all hold that power and ask for more. This is the reason i say, spend the money now so that you can enjoy your car on the ROAD and not sitting in the shop cuz something went wrong.

 

If you dont mind me asking what exactly did you get them to do and how much did they charge?

 

Laskey Racing has prices on their webpage of what they charge for their particular build. Mine is pretty much a JDM GSR block, Benson sleeves, bored 83mm, CP 9.0:1 pistons, Manley Turbo Rods, ACL Bearing all around, Benson micropolished LS crank. The labor for all of that and parts is a little over 5k i believe. With shipping and misc things here and there, it comes out to about 6k for the block alone.
My head was done by Dave at headgames. He fixed by broken valve by adding a new set of Ferrea 6000s, new valve seals, itr valve springs, itr retainers, 5 angle valve job, diassembly and assembly, cost me about 1k.
But remember you need other things that are not IN the motor, but outside of it such as:

Intake Manifold
Timing Belt
Cam Gears
Oil Pump
Water Pump
Tensioner
Valve cover gasket
Headgasket
New oil pan gasket

So pretty much those things do add up depending on how far you want to take the build.

 

There are other, not so big, builds that you can do, but the average price to build a block including parts is around 3k, for a pretty much stock build.

If you decide to leave those sleeves alone, honing is a must to clean the cylinder walls
So a hone is anywhere from 100-200 depending on where you go. My place usually does it for 150.

I priced out my oem build, and it came out to be somewhere around 2k without labor, just for parts. With labor i would probably be looking at about 3k. So i went and decided to do something "better" that would be stronger for when i turbo the car. It is all up to you, your goals, your budget, and what you expect from the car.

 

I appreciate the good advice man

 

No problem bro. Keep us updated.

 

my first, and only, comment to this thread would be that if reliability is your main goal, why are you going with forced induction? With the right build you could push 265-280 naturally aspirated.... just thought I'd throw that out there

 

ONCE MORE...where do you get the rationale that an all motor 280whp build will be realible???
Whether it be turbo or NA, it can blow up. There is always a risk no matter what direction you go with. You guys should read more often and stop posting silly assumptions. The OP might actually take your misleading advice seriously and do something he will not be happy with.

This topic has been discussed quite a few times here and in other places, turbo is just as reliable as anything, IF ITS BUILT AND TUNED RIGHT!

 

and building and tuning a turbo is more difficult, and usually more costly, than an NA build, at least on honda's. my apologies for offending the KING... dear god help us if he were to take my advice... oh nevermind i didn't give any, i simply asked a question.

 

This is giving advice. Turbo is not more expensive to tune. Most tuners will charge the same amount for a tune, whether it be turbo or NA.

Tuning is a real hassle when ITBs come into play. Everything else is pretty much the same. When youre dealing with something that is so heavily modified, it is always gonna be a little harder to tune than a stock motor with i/h/e and crome, for example.

 

an ls bored to 84mm (2.0) is more reliable than a b20