wow im pissed why b20 whhyyy
i have a obd1 90 civic b20 that doesnt want to start after replacing intake mani gasket(hondata), water pump(gsr) (gsr) adjustable cam gears(buddy club) mild port and polish TB and fuel injectors(obd1 d series). I have fuel at my injectors checked for spark its good and my timing is good might be 2 degrees off on my bottom end but i doubt that would stop my from starting.BUT when the car was being put back together a buddy of mine over tightened the bolt to secure the intake mani to the head and a chunk of my head broke off where the bolt scews into my head. if u were standing in front of my engine bay it would be the bolt to the very left right above my thermostat housing. looks to me like there is a coolant line going from the thermostat housing to my mani and its slighltly leaking coolant from around that area between the head and mani.could that be causing my car not to start? my CEL isnt on either.....
arrrgghhh
If I read right you are running a GSR water pump on a B20 non vtec? I know a GSR water pump has 22 teeth and the LS has 19. Is you timing belt tension goofy?
Are you getting spark? Feul?
Are you getting spark? Feul?
Umm your timing being off is the issue...you have to run the matching timing belt as water pump i.e LS/B20 water pump and timing belt, gsr water pump and timing belt
Trending Topics
yea im running a gsr timing belt and have no resistor box 93 pr4 ecu. the car was runnig like a champ b4 i put all those parts on it. i have fuel and spark didnt do any thing crazy with the tb. im thinking its the timing possibly the mani not flush against the head? just to double check on my fuel filter the arrow pointing away from the firewall is for the fuel rail and the arrow pointing towards the firewall is for the return line right? are there any sensors that could be damaged that would cause my car not to start?
if the rest of the intake manifold bolts are tight i dont see how it would leak massive amounts of coolant into the combustion chamber. you should be fine starting it but the piece of head that broke off is a whole nother problem in itself. not sure how you're going to resolve that.
if the rest of the intake manifold bolts are tight i dont see how it would leak massive amounts of coolant into the combustion chamber. you should be fine starting it but the piece of head that broke off is a whole nother problem in itself. not sure how you're going to resolve that.
just to double check on my fuel filter the arrow pointing away from the firewall is for the fuel rail and the arrow pointing towards the firewall is for the return line right?
ORLY!?? Please learn a little more before typing.
BINGO, this is why his car is not starting. If he is running the LS timing belt, then the timing is off. You have two options. Get a vtec timing belt and set the timing properly, or put your stock water pump back on and use the timing belt you have.
BINGO, this is why his car is not starting. If he is running the LS timing belt, then the timing is off. You have two options. Get a vtec timing belt and set the timing properly, or put your stock water pump back on and use the timing belt you have.
He said he is running a GSR timing belt and Water pump.
I still claim timing or Distributor to be off. Or as stated above the Resistor box needs to be deleted for the OBD1 injectors.
I still claim timing or Distributor to be off. Or as stated above the Resistor box needs to be deleted for the OBD1 injectors.
used the adjustable cam gears to set bottom end timing right. was advanced about 3 degrees. set top end 3 degrees ret. if that makes sense well see if b20 starts tomorrow
just to clarify i am running gsr water and timing belt no resistor box i had been driving the car a year with out any problems.

just to clarify i am running gsr water and timing belt no resistor box i had been driving the car a year with out any problems.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
WTB AUTO EK
Acura Integra
5
Jan 9, 2006 04:59 PM





