I ordered the FTW B-series kit from peakboost. FINALLY came in! my power goals are 350-375whp on 12-15lbs hopefully.I have a 2000 civic hx with a 01 gsr swap. I've upgrated disc brakes in the rear, and gsr calipares and rotors in front.drilled and slotted all around. skunk2 dual bend short throw, autometer nexus gauges in bezel, and a few other goodies. here's my turbo set up I have sitting in my garage, just want some input on what I'm missing or what I might not even need to reach my power goals. I want to do it right and only once! and most of all reliable. I tried to go with quailty parts. let me know what u guys think! thanks

b18c1
cp 9:1 81.5
golden eagle h-beams
ctr cams
skunk2 cam gears
skunk2 valves,retainers,dual springs
skunk2 IM and 68mm throttle body
arp bolts for entire motor
honda s300
aem fuel rail,pressure regulator,filter
edelbrock 255 pump
rc 1000's
msd distributer,coil,ect.
moroso oil pan

 

some input would b nice guys!

 

Sounds like plenty of part for that power goal. You should be set.
I make 340whp on a bone stock gsr at 10psi

 

No need for the fuel rail, regulator or filter for this goal. stock will suffice
You did not list a fuel pump for your RC1000s, (which are overkill for the goal. I know people want to "grow" later, but that's just going to take up tuning time.
You can use the moroso pan, but again, unnecessary.
You've got the IM and the 68mm TB, so go ahead and use them, but even the stock components would have worked.

 

I listed the edelbrock 255 fuel pump. and the 1000's were a free upgrade from peakboost bcuz my kit took so damn long to get to me. I also wanted to go ahead and get the head port and polished along with a valve job. And I wanted to ask if its worth getting my bearings,pistons, valves, and a few other things coated to reduce friction and wear? does it really help that much in the longevity of my motor under constant boost?

 

i have a similar setup that made 400 on 15lbs. the set up had over 25,000 miles before i cracked a sleeve. make sure you got a good tuner.

 

shodan commented on a few things all of which i agree with, id also like to add dont bother with arp main studs reuse the OEM, just use the ARP head studs. if you use the main studs you need to align hone the block. dont bother with coatings. you would need a valve job done for the new valves you listed anyway. dont bother with the port and polish instead take that money and sleeve the block. this will allow you to make more power than the pnp could net you anyway. stock dizzy should be fine.

 

Thats what I was also wondering. If I should have the block sleeved or not? and why not a block guard instead? I don't mind spending extra money on it as long as I know its going to help with the longevity of my motor. and while the head was off and i was getting all the work done on it in the first place I was going to have the head PnP. and do i need to worry about getting somekind of IM gasket like Hondata? and which gaskets should I use? stock head gastet? cosmetic? so many questions!!! haha thanks for all your input guys. it all helps a lot

and i know I may b a little overkill on some things, like completely building the block and head, and upgrading the fuel and electrical system, but if I want room to upgrade on power everything will already be ready to go. I want to be able to increase the boost on the fly possibly. With my set up I'm going to be building what numbers are going to be possible for me? my turbo kit is a ramhorn peakboost t3/t4 turbo. rated for up to 600whp I think

 

with the parts you listed...you should make more power with a good tune!

 

If you want to be able to "turn up the boost on the fly" then you have to build it for that power goal and have it tuned for that as the "high boost" map... then you tone it down for the low boost map...

Even for 500hp you're overkilling a LOT of things and not spending on stuff you probably should.

Sleeve the block don't P&P... it's just not neccisary for your goals or even the limits of the kit.

Spend the money on sleeving and balance/blueprinting the bottom end.

You could even sell a bunch of your stuff and still make more power than you want.

 

thanks for all the imput guys! this is helping a lot! I just want a realy reliable motor for 350-375hp. I figure if I build it to the fullest, then that much hp should be fairly easy on the motor and last awhile.

 

it better to be over kill than not, looks to me that this will make good power more than 375 for sure. get a good clutch to hold the power. or like stated above u can sell some of the stuff u got and spend the money on other things for example lsd, trans work, or traction bars. sleeves>block guards, just cause i had a few buddies over heat from block guards

 

I wouldn't know what to sell! lol and I'm still confused on the whole block guard vs. sleeve. I guess I'll have to talk to the shop thats going to do the build. awesome awesome info guys! thanks