Im hoping someone can help me here, I am having some trans issues, the car will go into gear normal just driving around etc... but once im up in the rpm's between 8-10k and try to shift into 2nd and 4th it just grinds like hell and will not go into gear untill the r's are down. I have taken apart the trans and looked at everything and really everything looks ok I quess and I was told by others as well, im not good with transmissions. Checked the clutch everthing, could something be bent in the trans that I can not see without really knowing what I am looking at. Its a stock gsr trans with a prodrive spool, going with a ppg or liberty soon but I have a race coming up and need to figure this out, if someone can give me some imput i would really appreciate it.


thanks

 

i had the same problem, it turned out to be the little square section on the synchro...hard to explain. everything looked great except for this little square section on the synchro was getting chewed up when sliding

 

Check your synchro ring clearances, and condition of the slider/hub. What fluid are you using?

 

^^^ x2

redboost10, I think I know what you're talking about. I've only seen it in one trans I've opened. I don't know how that part wore in the way it did. lol

 

haha, yeah it happened to two trannies. last year, same thing, same place. turns from a square and just starts chewing away and gets thinner and thinner.

 

My car did the same thing. I do not make as much power as you guys, but mine randomly started to grind when I would go for 3rd and 4th in the high RPMs. I just changed my fluid from straight Honda MTL to a mix of Honda MTL and Penzoil Synchromesh and it stopped. This was on a bone stock GSR tranny that had never been opened.

Recently I had to open it up to repair a bunch of junk and checked out the 3-4th gear slider, hub, and synchos. The slider and hub do not look well and luckily I went ahead and ordered the parts to replace those.

 

The Pennzoil Synchromesh contains friction additives, which basically help the synchro rings grip the gear cone better. This is only a band-aid though, and does not solve the issue. The only way to fix it is to replace the worn part(s), which can get expensive.

For the alignment stubs (sorry, I don't know what to call them either! lol) on the synchro rings, it's a combination of high torque and weak brass

 

good name, haha. anyway, i was only on 11 psi and they were brand new each time i replaced them. i guess 11 psi is more torque than stock torque...

 

The little squares on the brass rings are ring brakes. They are meant to wear, but get worn excessivly in racing. When they can no longer make good flush contact, they cannot slow the gear speed down. "Gear Speed" carbon synchros are a good buy IMO. I've used and abused them, and they never failed on me. But for us D series guys, they only have replacements for 3-4-5. The 1-2 rings they provide are OEM.

 

Lol. I have broken those things so many times. I am not completely convinced it is from power/trq. I have even have broken square blocks on the 5/R syncro blocking ring and I definately do not shift hard/fast/under heavy power into 5th. They both are HrB of 95-105 so that rules out one being weaker than the other.

 

Those are the "brake pads" inside the synchro ring. We're talking about the square alignment tabs on the outside, that position the ring. Well, at least I think everyone is? lol

Yeah, I was thinking that about the torque as well, as I've seen this happen on a few lower power road race trannies as well, albeit we put this down to incorrect installation (a lot of things were not done right).

 

yes i am talking about the squares on the outter side.

 

This may sound dumb, but how can one install the synchro rings wrong? Im no tranny expert, but just looking at them during assembly it looks like they can only go in one way. Maybe I am reading to much into what you are saying or maybe Im just that dumb about a Honda transmission.

You are talking about that actual brass synchro itself right? And not the little ring that slides onto the synchro.

 

Sorry, I didn't mean installing the synchro ring wrong, I meant the transmission install in general. Everything has a knock-on effect.

 

Reason I am asking these questions is because I am actually in the process of reassembling my tranny. It is my first tranny rebuild on my own. I want this thing to last as well as it did before I opened it up. Had over 100k on it and several miles of that were on a turbo engine, I was not easy on it either.

Are there clearances that you guys that are tranny experts like to make sure are good when assembly of the shafts and such? This is on stock gears, synchos, etc

Sorry for kind of highjacking the thread with my questions and problems, but I think this may be able to help out the original poster as well.

 

I am using 1bottle of redline shock proof and the rest redline mtl. can anyone show me a pic of what I am needing to replace or atleast take a look at, im sure it will be much cheaper then putting a new trans in and then who know what it has gone through, this only needs to get me through like one or two more races for seat time etc... then ill sack up and get a dogbox

 

Sorry it was early in the mornng, didn't pick up on it being the tabs as the subject. I've never seen one of those get worn.

 

You know the thing that the shift fork fits into on the countershaft and the mainshaft?

That would be the hub and slider. That is what is getting worn. My 3/4th gear hub, slider, synchro kit cost me around $180 and that was getting it from acuraoemparts.com. Its costly for what you get!!

 

hub or slider worn, synchro's damaged or worn, shift fork worn, shift selector worn, gears or collars worn. It can be a lot of things. I check ALL clearances when I do a trans, no matter what is wrong with it or what I'm doing to it.

 

I do not know anything about trannys really, I quess i need to start learing. I should have it cracked fri or sat, and ill take some pics and post them, maybe someone can help me out. Or I may learn something.

 

HELM's manual.

If you can't get a hold of one, and you have Excel, I think I have a decent spreadsheet with clearance data. It doesn't show EXACTLY how to measure the stuff though like the manual. Just shoot me your email and I'll send it over if I do find it. lol