I just finished swapping a d15b2 with 48k miles into my 95 hatch.

i used a d15b7 ECU, a d15b7 dizzy and a z6 mani/injectors/fuel rail etc.

the car USED to be VTEC but now obviously its not. i was told just to tape off all the ghetto wires that were wired into the harness for the vtec conversion and it should run. im not sure if this is correct? i doubt it, but idk.

but thats not the problem now, the problem is im pretty sure we fried something out. after plugging evrything back up, we started the motor up to make sure it ran. it started up and ran for about 5 seconds and then shut off sending smoke and a burnt smell out of the intake. shortly after this i realized my buddy who works mainly on Bimmers had plugged up two sensors on the IM backwards. i think its the iat and iacv? so we pulled the ecu apart, nothing "looks" fried. lol but i have no idea. im gonna go to the junkyard this afternoon or tomorow to get the sensors.

does anyone know exactly what kind of damage we did? how can i fix it?

 

I did the same thing but with the iat and evap plugs. But I ended up frying my transistor in my ecu (I think it was the Q31 spot ) and also frying the iat sensor. Had to replace both but, you can fix the ecu if it's not burnt real bad and you have the knowledge to do so. Recheck ecu to see if you burnt that transistor and also the iat sensor. My iat sensor was melted (the part that inserts in manifol) when I took it off the manifold. Forgot to ask if you have any cel's?

Hope this helps.

 

it was throwing code 4 ithink? i cant remember well. im looking at the ecu right now. i cant find anything wrong at all. im no electrician, but i dont see anything burnt or blown looking.

and the IAT isnt melted

idk what i did!! lol

 

there is no power coming to the dizzy

 

So the engine currently won't start?

Code 4 indicates a problem with the circuit for the crank sensor in the distributor.

The Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and igniter unit in the distributor should have battery voltage with the key in ON(II). If not, check whether the 50A ignition switch fuse under the hood is blown, the Blk/Yel wire lacks continuity between the ignition switch and dizzy, or the ignition switch is bad.

 

it started that one time when it cut off and smoke came out the intake. after that it wouldnt even try to start. it had no power to the dizzy or injectors or anything.

 

have been over all under hood fuses many times.

i plugged up both ecu's and got a solid CEL light with both with the key turned

i did find this wire dangling, unplugged under the dash

i have no idea why its unplugged.





and this black and yellow wire also hanging unplugged from near the fusebox under the dash



i really wish i could pay someone to fix the electrical problems, get it running right, burn a chip and street tune it. or at least get it running on a basemap from phearable,