I've started tearing down my '95 DX for a head gasket and timing belt job, the head is ready to come off (except for the belt still being wrapped around the cam gear). I was ready to tear into the timing belt/tensioner/water pump at the same time but I'm stuck trying to get the bolt off of the crank pulley.

Someone mentioned the Honda tool that allows you to put a breaker bar on it (like an o2 sensor tool) and you can put a 17mm socket in there to break it loose. We have an a/c delete crank pulley here for a B-Series (which does, in fact, have the large 6pt head built into the pulley) but the crank pulley on my '95 DX Auto does not.

The service manual says to remove the flywheel/flexplate inspection cover and insert a pry bar or screwdriver while loosening the crank bolt. Okay, but the crank bolt still won't break loose!

My 1/2" air gun isn't strong enough, so I tried the "cheater bar" method but it's still not enough (I'm 130lbs and have a 4ft bar). I'm guessing it's going to need ~600+ lb ft tq to break it loose. Any suggestions? I've been soaking the bolt in PB blaster for about the past 3 days

 

If anyone is local to the Lehigh Valley and has a 3/4" or 1" impact gun rated for 600-800lb ft tq it'd be a HUGE help. Thanks in advance

 

Your going to need the following tool in order to get the crank pully bolt off.

http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648.../dp/B0000TMLWQ

 

torch the bolt, then apply torque.

 

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/t...ool/index.html

 

i have that tool... it's no good for my cx :-(, but my impact gun usually handles it well.

i just thought of this op. make sure that the socket is sitting flush on the bolt if it's not then you're not transmitting full torque to the bolt to break it loose. so make sure you've lowered the engine enough. remove the engine mount and the torque mount.

 

I'll say this again, my DX crank pulley will not accept that 6pt tool. The B-Series crank pulley we have here will accept that tool but my D15 does not look even remotely close to the B-Series pulley

 

It looks more like this design than the one below it (which is what the 6pt tool is used for)

 

Already done, I'm using a long extension bar with a 1/2" breaker bar, and a cheater bar on that. I'm using a jack stand to keep it level with the crank pulley bolt but I'm not having any luck.


Fresh-baked cookies to anyone who has an impact gun locally that can take it off. Mine isn't strong enough

 

I always put an extra large screwdriver or chisel in between the flywheel teeth and tranny housing, usually on the right side near the stamp that says what motor you have (h22a4, b16a, etc.) and then I use a craftsman 1/2" breaker bar with a 6 foot piece of fence post over the bar. Once I put a little torque on the flywheel it holds the screwdriver in place and then I pull, push, jump, or throw my body weight at the breaker bar and it comes free.

I did it a week or two ago while the motor was out by laying the motor on its back (intake mani touching the ground) and had someone stand on the motor while i cranked down on the breaker bar. While it's in the car it should be easier. I use a similar method with hub nuts too. I just use a jack handle between two wheel lugs and let the other end pry against the ground while I break the hub nut free with the breaker bar and extension.

 

take it to a shop and have them break it lose then hand tighten it then get it home and there you go

 

I ran into this problem the first time I changed the timing belt on my civic. What I did was I used a chain strap type tool and wrapped it around the a/c row on the crank pulley and that held the pulley in place one it was wedged under the driveshaft. The tool handle is like a pair of vise grips with a chain at the end that wraps arounf and locks to itself. Its kinda hard to explain but it worked for me and I have been using the trick every since on a lot of Hondas.

 

i had the same problem when i changed the timing belt on my del sol. i had to use a really good impact to get the bolt lose.

 

It's not driveable at this point, and I'm too light to really put any force into the cheater bar (the other option is find someone with a much longer cheater bar). The best thing at my disposal right now is a 3 or 4ft jack handle from an aluminum craftsman jack but it feels like it bending before the crank pulley bolt breaks loose.

I only see this working by means of a diesel *** impact gun, my gun isn't strong enough

 

The key to removing Honda Civic's crankshaft pulley bolt is to change the output regulator on your compressor.

I couldn't remove my '97 Honda Civic's bolt at 90 PSI (normal working pressure) using my Ingersoll Rand (IR) 2135ti or my 2135tiMax. When I cranked up my compressor's output regulator to 120 PSI, it whizzed it right off with practically no hammering using my 2135tiMax.

It isn't unusual to crank up the pressure when needed. Many professional compressors pressurize up to 175 PSI. Mechanics consider losing a tool part of the cost of the job if it fails at high pressure. IR impact wrenches are known for their durability.

 

spray some atf/acetone on it a few times, let it sit...
then tighten the bolt with your impact to jar it, then goes ***** out in reverse, no extension.

Make sure you have a large air hose, turn the compressor to max setting, and oil the impact.

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10