j4s0n1337

95 civic dx hatch with a jdm b20b, so here's what's up, I need to change my timing belt, it was rubbing against something and now it's all frayed. Upon further investigation, I found out the little key that holds the pulley to the crank is missing (disintegrated, pulled a sneaky on me, idk man!) so I can't use the crank pulley tool. I heated the bolt, half a can of pb blaster, impact gun that is over qualified to take the bolt off, and i did the screw driver in the flywheel and breaker bar trick.....no luck. I'm out of ideas, so now I turn to you guys, help me out!

j4s0n1337

Also, it's in no condition to drive to the mechanics to get them to take it off. idk guys?!?!?

Former User

What impact gun?

Also describe how you did the screwdriver/breaker bar method.

j4s0n1337

Blue point AT500A, it took off the bolt multiple times for my d15, and the b20 once when I first got the engine (timing belt, water pump, tensioner)

I just stuck a screwdriver in between the flywheel teeth and used the breaker bar to try to muscle it out, didn't work out, obvi. I'm letting some more pb blaster soak in right now untill i figure something else out

98civdx

Why can't you use the tool??

I don't understand why you can't becuase the woodruff key isn't there. I had no problem using mine.

It's been known to take over 1100lbs of break away torque to get them off, or, breaker bar with 6-8 feet of a cheater pipe..
BUT, you'll need to use the crank pulley tool.

I fought mine for 2 days, and said **** it, and limped it to my friends shop.

j4s0n1337

the pulley spins freely, since there's no key in there, I'm like 98% sure it wouldn't work, plus i don't know anyone that has one and F**K waiting a week for it in the mail. The only way I'll be able to get it to the shop is if I get it towed, and that seems kinda silly, I'm sure I can get it off, I did it before.

Former User

It only won't work if you try to use the Honda hex tool that works by holding the crank pulley in place. Without the metal key, the pulley can turn independently of the crankshaft.

j4s0n1337

Do they make another tool that doesn't need the pulley? I doubt it, ugh, I'm so close to just drilling it out, worst case scenario I have to get a new crank? that's like a LAST LAST LAST ditch effort though, hahahaha.

98civdx

oh.

I to have done it several times, got to my car and bam. Hit a freaking wall.

I wouldn't have it towed, unles you have access to a truck and trailor, if not that would just be expensive.

I was told to use this stuff called Areokroil. The shop I went to used it... It is a little on the expensive side though.

Former User

Yes soak with a lot of PB Blaster overnight. How long is your breaker bar? I needed to extend my 24" breaker bar with a 4' piece of galvanized pipe to get enough leverage to remove the bolt. You may need a 6' extension.

j4s0n1337

it's a 2 footer, so where would one find a 6 foot extension?

98civdx

Homedepot, or something. Hopefully, you can buy it and just return it. We had to buy a
6' pipe for my friend's, and we were able to return it after using it.

Former User

This^ is a reasonable plan -- and free!!!

j4s0n1337

true, i'm about to do that, i'm using a 18" breaker bar and a 2 floor bar for my floor jack and i just keep breaking screwdrivers. any tips for the screw driver half of it?

Former User

Some people remove a spark plug and fill one cylinder with nylon rope to prevent the engine from turning.

j4s0n1337

RLY? never heard of it, i'll look for some rope, haha

j4s0n1337

Wait, would that damage the valves at all?

Former User

Good question. I haven't heard that it is a problem. But you could probably lower such risk by filling cylinder 1 with rope when the piston is positioned a little before TDC1. This way, the valves should be closed or nearly closed when force is applied. In addition, nylon rope is somewhat malleable, which should help to distribute the force over more surface than just the valves.

gwl

If your crank pulley is moving freely because the the woodruff key is missing, you may have a bigger problem after you are able to remove the pulley. Most of the time when the key is missing, it already have been worn down by the constant rotation of the crank against the pulley. This is evident by the rubbing and fraying of the timing belt. You may have a damaged keyway on the crank for the woodruff key.

Former User

Hopefully the mechanic just forgot to install the metal key.

gwl

Also, I had a similar problem on my son's car. He said the engine was making some strange noise while he was on the way to school. I found the crank pulley bolt was a little loose and it damaged the pulley, crank, and timing gear. The crank damage wasn't too severe since I was able to use new key with some modification. The crank bolt came off pretty easy but the timing gear was a pain.

j4s0n1337

Andddddd, the bolt rounded on me. So now way? Drill it out, replace the crank? It's a 2000 b20b, can I replace the crank from any b series engine? If so I might just pull one from the junk yard tonight.

DCRB

i usually just drop the pan, wedge a piece of wood between the crank and the side of the block then go to town with a breaker bar.

Former User

Crap.

Do you think there may be enough room to get a Bolt-Out socket over it?

j4s0n1337

That's great and all, BUT THE BOLT IS ROUNDED, it has no grip. Can I drill it out and not damage the threads of the crank? Or should I use a bolt extractor kit? I'm thinking of just saying F**K it and replacing the whole crank with a junkyard one, bad idea, i know, but i'm a broke college student.