I have a 92 civic cx 5spd with 150000 miles. The car starts and runs fine but as stated burns a TON of oil! I was going to put in a gsr but money is tight and I'm thinking about just trying to rebuild the engine I have if that's a lot cheaper.

What do you guys think my car needs? I'm thinking new rings and might as well get a new timing belt. Is there anything else I should change?

Also how much do you guys think it will cost to do this myself? And is it worth it for a good running car?

 

i dont even know where to start lol....

rebuild the whole bottom end... might as well get aftermarket pistons n **** ... rings bearings valve stem seals ect....

 

swap a jdm d15b, u have everything already

 

i think at that point it can't be considered burning....

it will be cheaper to just buy a new long block, keep your intake, tranny etc, and just swap em.

hell post on craigslist in your area, you'll probably find one for a couple dollars from someone like me with a couple sohc's in his garage.

 

pick up another d15b7 for $75 and swap it in, hell of a lot cheaper and easier

 

Is it even possible to burn that much oil and the engine still run fine? Have you looked for a major oil leak? If you are indeed burning oil, then I would think it's from bad valve stem seals.

 

Well maybe not quite 10 quarts but I added 6 and then it was real low when I changed the oil. No leaks that I can tell. No puddles. And the bumper has been collecting oil residue like crazy at the tail pipe. It runs sluggish but fine. Obviously not really fine because of the burn but it drives alright.

So the general opinnion is to do a swap. If I buy a used engine should I rebuild it at all before I put it in while it's out of the car?

 

If you buy used engine leakdown test first, then change timing belt/ water pump before you put it in

 

i used to have an '86 civic wagon that would burn so much oil it looked like a horizontal space shuttle launch on the interstate... and it never used 10 qts!!

probably a combo of burn and leak.

 

Well then I don't know where all the oil is going but it's not staying in the pan so I guess a swap is the way to go. Which swap is the question. I would like it to be a quick car but only if it will still be reliable and cost under $2500 total without labor. Any ideas?

 

Haha...

 

Spend more time looking for oil leaks. Also do wet versus dry cylinder compression tests and a cylinder leak down test. If the rings are fine, then the least expensive option might be to replace the head gasket or valve stem seals, whichever turn out to be bad.