i just replaced my cylinder head and after putting it all back together, we tried starting the car. it sounded like i get no compression in the chamber. there is spark in all spark plug wires, there's fuel coming out of the banjo bolt. the distibutor is faced the right way (the pointer is pointing at #1 at TDC). we torqued the head bolts at 113 ft lbs (manual says so). timing belt is not snapped. i even tried loosening the dizzy and moved it fully backward and forward just to make sure there would be compresssion (or it would sound like it). the sound that i get is like the timing belt snapped

if there would be no spark, i'm guessing that would also be the sound that i would get? or am i wrong? the sensor plugs are all connected, everything.

i can't figure out what's wrong...there is one exhaust manifold stud that were not used because it was stripped but i don't think that it would make a problem

anyone has ideas?

EDIT : car is a 90 civic DX, D15B2 engine. previous head has a stamp PM3-3, installed head with a PM3-7 stamp. all valve train from the PM3-7 was used. i just added the camgear and dizzy from the previous head

 

are u getting spark if so check the compression

 

not that it is keeping it from starting, but i believe that you have way over-torqued the head bolts - surprised that you didn't break some - i would guess that they are torqued beyond the yield point

 

oops, yeah. it was 47 ft lbs. the 113 ft lbs was for the crank pulley. my bad. i have no compression gauge available, but is it possible that i would get a sound of "no-compression" if i have no fuel going in the chamber?

i'm so depressed right now. i'm thinking of just taking out the head again but i'll rest for now. took me 3 weeks to do it but i get this instead (three weeks, but i only do it on the weekends)

 

Are all the ground wires on and tighntened?

J

 

Get a compression guage and check it. You might not have mounted the belt
properly, and the valves are not opening/closing at the right time.

 

i'm gonna pull out the head this weekend. is it possible to not remove the crank pulley and lower timing belt cover to take out the head? the first time i did, i remove the crank pulley and lower tming bolt since the tensioner bolt broke. i was just wondering if i could pull out the head without going in that direction again (taking out the crank pulley bolt was a pain)

 

Pulling the head off the Single cam honda engine is cake.

Just loosen the 14mm tensioner bolt, slide the belt off the Cam gear, Remove the Valve cover, Remove the 10 head bolts and up she comes.

No need to even remove the Dizzy (just unplug it). Let alone the Crank pulley.

Where are from I can maybe help you

 

check sensors

 

@909Dc2Racer, what sensors do i need to check? i just plugged the harness to wherever it goes on the intake manifold (and exhaust mani for the 02 sensor).

before i tackle the big job, is there a chance that it's because of the ebay head gasket? *lol*

also, are there 2 ways to set the TDC on the crank? i would just line up the TDC mark on the pulley to the timing belt cover right? i just lined up the mark with the belt cover. correct me if i'm wrong, but the compression would be dictated by the cylinder head, am i right? i mean, if i set the crank at TDC and the cam at TDC, then the cycle would start at the first stroke. but if i set the crank at TDC and the cam's "UP" mark opposite of TDC (meaning the "up" mark is at 6 o'clock position), then the cycle would start at the compression stroke (third stroke). is this correct?

is it also possible that i warped the block since i hand-sanded it to remove the old head gasket that sticked? along with the intake mani?

 

UPDATE : i need advise. block surface (the surface where it meets the head) MIGHT be uneven, so i was thinking if i needed to pull out the engine to have the block checked by a machine shop (possibly honed or rebored too), why not swap a D16A6 or D16Y7 instead? is this possible?

i have a spare L3 Si tranny. if ever, will it fit on the Y7? what about the Y7 fitting with the stock 1990 mounts?

or shall i just rebuild my D15B2? i'm tallying the cost and it would almost come down to $1000 (whaaaaaatttt?!) head gasket, pistons, rings, bearings, exhaust valves, valve seals, valve seats, oil pan gasket, etc etc

 

throw a zc sohc cam in that b2

 

^^^^

X1000,000

 

Sounds like you have the timing belt on wrong.

A6 and Y7 will both fit in there.
Both are multi-port fuel injection so you will need to to the MPFI conversion and get the appropriate ECU.

Y7 is and OBD2 engine. It will bolt in and I guess you could run it off the MPFI ECU for the A6, but it would be better IMO to convert to OBD1.

 

are there 2 ways to set the TDC? does it matter when the piston is at compression stroke or intake stroke when i set it at the crank? because when i first replaced the head, i just lined up the TDC mark at the crank and then the UP mark at the cam gear is pointing upward. i'm still figuring out the problem before i go replacing/rebuilding the motor (to save money since i don't have enough right now)

EDIT : engine is 100% at TDC. i should buy a compression gauge this week before i decide to pull the head or motor out