Ok, this is to simplify my other thread.

I changed the plugs, I'm going to change the leads and cap/rotor when they come in. There is a brand new inline fuel filter, don't know about the condition of the pump filter sock or injectors, as it sat a year....

PROBLEM: it hesitates at low rpm: there is a pretty noticeable suck of air into the intake when you step into it a bit at low rpms. over 3-4 grand its good, pulls really nice.

so will the leads, cap/rotor fix this or is there something else I need to look at?

thanks

 

Does the car sound like a subie (figuratively speaking) at low rpms and then pickup in higher rpm range correct?

 

before the plugs, when it was running really bad, it did sound like a sube. Now its hardly noticeable....any ideas?

 

Hows the idle ? poss. vac leak ? Check your valve adjustment aswell down low loose or even to tight valves can cause some gnarly misfires and be good up top. O yea did it do it before in the inline i know that those things can mess with fuel pressures.

 

I would start the engine and pull each one of your plug wires out and see if they are arcing, I know I just helped a buddy with this problem and thats what his issue was as it was arcing to the inside of the tube and not on the plug all the way.

Also when you pull each one out, the ones that are good you will notice a change in the motor, i.e stumbling, wanting to die, the one(s) that is/are bad you will not notice a change in the motor idle.

 

It didn't do it before the inline.... could also be the leads arcing, I'll check tomorrow night

one symptom I didn't mention is that It'll idle pretty near 1300 1400 most of the time, shut it down and restart it and it purrs at 800 until you drive it a bit then it'll go up again. never fluctuates. theres two nipple on my TB, one is plugged and one feeds a T to the bs beside the map (forget what theyre called) could that be a problem? does the second nipple need to breathe as well? actually, I hooked it up direct today and didn't change anything....

thanks for the help guys

 

Your map sensor should have a direct vac to that nipple above the throttle body, as your map sensor will get incorrect vac. So yes try and remove the t and see if it runs better.

the larger of the 2 goes to the charcoal canister, I removed mine so mine just sits there.

 

Dephtone, I have 3 vacs coming from the map area. the one to the charcoal can is gone, and i have the other two T into the nipple slightly back from the top of the TB. This should be Ok? or should I have them both run independently?

Today I changed the leads. No real change, but it did seem to run better at slightly lower rpm's (2.5-3K and up its not bad). I did notice that the symptoms are not that apparent when not quite warm, and the most apparent when fully warm....

thanks for the input.... tomorrow I'll try running those vacs independently

 

dont worry about the charcoal canister, it's just for emmissions.
just remove the T ,
there might be a vacuum diagram in the FAQS or google it.

 

the charcoal cannister is NOT hooked up. I have a T from the map and the other little devise (not the one that goes to the c. can) I'll try just running the map vaccum and eliminating the whateveritis vaccum....

edit : just went out to look at my sedan (beater) and its hooked up the same way (minus the vac going to the pcv) and it runs beautifully.... but I'll try it anyhow, time for bed now.

 

well maybe thats how its supposed to be, i dont have a wall mount map sensor so im not familiar with it.

and by leads do you mean spark plug wires? how do the spark plugs look?

 

as stated before plugs are brand new, no driving on them yet.... old ones had some carbon, and the tips were dark red/brown.

later today I'll try running independent vac's and see how that goes. Now its just my crap suspension and dumbass teg knuckles that are pissing me off the most LOL

 

I just remove the wall mounted emissions stuff, since you've already eliminated the Charcoal canister and run my map sensor on it's own vac line just to be sure that it is getting sufficient vac. Also make sure there are no dry rot vac lines as this will cause a leak as well.

Spray some soapy water on the vac line and see if it bubbles up, that will tell you where your vac leak is coming from if you have one.