car died on me an wont start
i was driving the other day and my 94 ls just died and wont start. when i turn the key it just ticks once. timing belt was done a week before this happened. i checked the timing and its all lined up. what do i do now.my dc is a 5 speed any advise on what it could be?
The valve cover/head ground is needed for noise suppression, corrosion prevention and to insure a proper ground for the spark plugs in the head, it needs to be installed, it has however nothing to do with engine not cranking over.
Question...
When you turn ign. to start and all you hear is a "click", where is the click comming from, under the dash, [starter relay] or from engine bay, [starter solenoid]?
Try a "bypass jump", using a jumper wire, [12ga min.] connect one end to the batt. pos.(+) terminal, unplug the "starter wire" from the starter solenoid, [thinner of the two leads at the starter motor, black/white] and touch the other end of jumper wire to the terminal on the starter motor solenoid. BE CAREFULL, make sure car is not in gear and hand brake is set, engine will crank even if car is in gear and ign. switch is off.
Let me know what happens.94
Trending Topics
Not sure I understand, how do you know there is oil in #3 cylinder by taking the valve cover off and what do you mean by oil started leaking out of spark plug wire???
The valve cover/head ground is needed for noise suppression, corrosion prevention and to insure a proper ground for the spark plugs in the head, it needs to be installed, it has however nothing to do with engine not cranking over.
Question...
When you turn ign. to start and all you hear is a "click", where is the click comming from, under the dash, [starter relay] or from engine bay, [starter solenoid]?
Try a "bypass jump", using a jumper wire, [12ga min.] connect one end to the batt. pos.(+) terminal, unplug the "starter wire" from the starter solenoid, [thinner of the two leads at the starter motor, black/white] and touch the other end of jumper wire to the terminal on the starter motor solenoid. BE CAREFULL, make sure car is not in gear and hand brake is set, engine will crank even if car is in gear and ign. switch is off.
Let me know what happens.94
The valve cover/head ground is needed for noise suppression, corrosion prevention and to insure a proper ground for the spark plugs in the head, it needs to be installed, it has however nothing to do with engine not cranking over.
Question...
When you turn ign. to start and all you hear is a "click", where is the click comming from, under the dash, [starter relay] or from engine bay, [starter solenoid]?
Try a "bypass jump", using a jumper wire, [12ga min.] connect one end to the batt. pos.(+) terminal, unplug the "starter wire" from the starter solenoid, [thinner of the two leads at the starter motor, black/white] and touch the other end of jumper wire to the terminal on the starter motor solenoid. BE CAREFULL, make sure car is not in gear and hand brake is set, engine will crank even if car is in gear and ign. switch is off.
Let me know what happens.94
sounds like your battery.
oil probably got down the spark plug hole when you took the valve cover off.. i woudlnt worry about that/ if its that bad replace that seal(there are 4 . 1 for ea. spark plug hole)
oil probably got down the spark plug hole when you took the valve cover off.. i woudlnt worry about that/ if its that bad replace that seal(there are 4 . 1 for ea. spark plug hole)
but my car is a stick an i tried push starting it n it still didnt start. got new seals for the valve cover also. but ill go ahead n have my battery checked and hopefully that works.
Did you try the bypass jump?
You can test the batt. by turning on the head lights and then pressing horn, if horn is normally loud and head lights stay on the batt. is probably OK, you can also test for connection problems by leaving door open so dome light is on and then watching dome light turn ign. key to start, if dome light does not go out it is unlikely a connection problem. 94
You can test the batt. by turning on the head lights and then pressing horn, if horn is normally loud and head lights stay on the batt. is probably OK, you can also test for connection problems by leaving door open so dome light is on and then watching dome light turn ign. key to start, if dome light does not go out it is unlikely a connection problem. 94
Did you try the bypass jump?
You can test the batt. by turning on the head lights and then pressing horn, if horn is normally loud and head lights stay on the batt. is probably OK, you can also test for connection problems by leaving door open so dome light is on and then watching dome light turn ign. key to start, if dome light does not go out it is unlikely a connection problem. 94
You can test the batt. by turning on the head lights and then pressing horn, if horn is normally loud and head lights stay on the batt. is probably OK, you can also test for connection problems by leaving door open so dome light is on and then watching dome light turn ign. key to start, if dome light does not go out it is unlikely a connection problem. 94
How did you drop a bolt into the transmission???
Where into the transmission did it go?
How is it making the engine die, when you put it into gear???
The no start problem, [with key] is either the starter relay or the CIS, [Clutch Interlock Switch] or the ign. switch, [starter output] or possibly wiring between the above components, a multimeter is needed to trace down the problem.
The "no start" and the running like chit are unlikely related, you have some other problem(s) either ign., fuel or both.
A problem with the ign. switch could cause both problems, again you will need a multimeter to test the ign. switch. 94
Where into the transmission did it go?
How is it making the engine die, when you put it into gear???
The no start problem, [with key] is either the starter relay or the CIS, [Clutch Interlock Switch] or the ign. switch, [starter output] or possibly wiring between the above components, a multimeter is needed to trace down the problem.
The "no start" and the running like chit are unlikely related, you have some other problem(s) either ign., fuel or both.
A problem with the ign. switch could cause both problems, again you will need a multimeter to test the ign. switch. 94
Use a magnet to get the bolt out. You can buy these magnetic rods (forget tech name) that are made for getting into tight places in cars to get nuts and bolts out.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
sleepyitr
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
1
May 1, 2008 04:22 PM




