gearbox problem
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,030
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From: Lisbon, Portugal, Portugal
i´ve been researching a bit on gearbox issues but i havent come across with something similar to my problem...
So other day for the first time in 8 years of owning the R i misshifted 2-3-2 :\ car went past 10k....however it seems to be fine....good vaccum, idles nicely and has the same oil pressure.
As for the gearbox....well its now doing a whining sound at very light engine load i notice it the most in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear, once i give it more throttle i cant hear it anymore....it doesnt make any noise at idle and if i press the clutch while its whining (driving) it goes away completely....
Car shifts fine besides this, but at this point im paranoid......any ideas? lol
cheers
So other day for the first time in 8 years of owning the R i misshifted 2-3-2 :\ car went past 10k....however it seems to be fine....good vaccum, idles nicely and has the same oil pressure.
As for the gearbox....well its now doing a whining sound at very light engine load i notice it the most in 3rd, 4th and 5th gear, once i give it more throttle i cant hear it anymore....it doesnt make any noise at idle and if i press the clutch while its whining (driving) it goes away completely....
Car shifts fine besides this, but at this point im paranoid......any ideas? lol
cheers
Does it go away instantaneously when initially depressing the clutch pedal at the top of its travel? If it does, I'd lean more towards the clutch release bearing.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,030
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From: Lisbon, Portugal, Portugal
Being pessimistic i´m already considering the worst scenario
If it goes away when you push in the clutch, then its the input shaft bearing, which typically goes bad due to the pilot bearing (related system).
If you have trouble shifting (hesitation in the gear level finding the next gear), then it's a broken clutch spring retaining plate (just replace the clutch disk).
Several of us on here go through the input shaft and/or clutch plates like candy - and it doesn't matter if its on a totally OEM motor or totally a.market. I'm still trying to figure out what causes it, but there's some kind of flaw in the B-series (I'm so tired of it, I thought of going after Honda in a class action lawsuit...).
Suffice to say I'm ready to rip out the B-series and go K or J series.
If you have trouble shifting (hesitation in the gear level finding the next gear), then it's a broken clutch spring retaining plate (just replace the clutch disk).
Several of us on here go through the input shaft and/or clutch plates like candy - and it doesn't matter if its on a totally OEM motor or totally a.market. I'm still trying to figure out what causes it, but there's some kind of flaw in the B-series (I'm so tired of it, I thought of going after Honda in a class action lawsuit...).
Suffice to say I'm ready to rip out the B-series and go K or J series.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,030
Likes: 0
From: Lisbon, Portugal, Portugal
the sound is kinda like it has straight cut gears but like i said only on really light engine load and above 2-3k...i´ll try to upload a vid of the sound once i get on the car again.
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If it goes away when you push in the clutch, then its the input shaft bearing, which typically goes bad due to the pilot bearing (related system).
If you have trouble shifting (hesitation in the gear level finding the next gear), then it's a broken clutch spring retaining plate (just replace the clutch disk).
Several of us on here go through the input shaft and/or clutch plates like candy - and it doesn't matter if its on a totally OEM motor or totally a.market. I'm still trying to figure out what causes it, but there's some kind of flaw in the B-series (I'm so tired of it, I thought of going after Honda in a class action lawsuit...).
Suffice to say I'm ready to rip out the B-series and go K or J series.
If you have trouble shifting (hesitation in the gear level finding the next gear), then it's a broken clutch spring retaining plate (just replace the clutch disk).
Several of us on here go through the input shaft and/or clutch plates like candy - and it doesn't matter if its on a totally OEM motor or totally a.market. I'm still trying to figure out what causes it, but there's some kind of flaw in the B-series (I'm so tired of it, I thought of going after Honda in a class action lawsuit...).
Suffice to say I'm ready to rip out the B-series and go K or J series.
I know of a few with issues with Exedy clutches back in the day, but that's about it.
Dave -
I know there are plenty of happy Yugo and Pinto drivers out there too
My stock clutch disc spring retaining plate broke at 40k miles (completely stock engine, never over-revved). Then new flywheel and beefier clutch spring disc (everything replaced) did the same - about this time, noticed input shaft noise. At 90k, the beefier clutch spring plate broke. Replaced everything again, and this time bought new factory ITR transmission to go with it. Guess what, 20k miles later and input shaft noise is back - I figure my clutch has another 20-30k on it before the plate fails.
A quick search in the ITR forum yields other users who have had this happen. Exedy claims "something is not balanced" ... yeah, great, the crank? They wouldn't return my messages after their initial explanation, but I certainly do not feel as though Honda's are "more reliable" than any other brand at this point.
The K/J series "seem" to be better. I'd love to just swap everything out and be done with it.
I know there are plenty of happy Yugo and Pinto drivers out there too

My stock clutch disc spring retaining plate broke at 40k miles (completely stock engine, never over-revved). Then new flywheel and beefier clutch spring disc (everything replaced) did the same - about this time, noticed input shaft noise. At 90k, the beefier clutch spring plate broke. Replaced everything again, and this time bought new factory ITR transmission to go with it. Guess what, 20k miles later and input shaft noise is back - I figure my clutch has another 20-30k on it before the plate fails.
A quick search in the ITR forum yields other users who have had this happen. Exedy claims "something is not balanced" ... yeah, great, the crank? They wouldn't return my messages after their initial explanation, but I certainly do not feel as though Honda's are "more reliable" than any other brand at this point.
The K/J series "seem" to be better. I'd love to just swap everything out and be done with it.
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