As the title says, I swapped my 94 EX wagon to manual transmission. It has been sitting on jackstands for about 1.5 months. The fuel level is just about empty, but not at the empty mark yet. I checked all the grounds to make sure they're bolted down. The starter cranks, but the engine will not turn over. I'm not sure how a fuel pump sounds, therefore I cannot verify if it's pumping or now, however it was working fine before I performed the swap. I also swapped-out the automatic ECU for a 5-speed unit and took out the TCU as well.

I've cranked about close to 10 seconds at times, and don't want to drain the battery. Any help is much appreciated.

 

if you rotate the key to the second cycle, one before the actual cranking cycle, you should hear a low buzzing noise that is coming from the trunk. Should last a few seconds then go away. That is the fuel pump priming itself, if you hear that, then your fuel pump is in operation. I would take a timing light and hook it up to the 1st spark plug like you are setting timing, and see if it flashes while you are cranking, then you will see if you are getting spark. If not pull the cap off and make sure all is good in the distributor world. Possibly the rotor/cap is bad, or the infamous ignition coil.

Just a few thoughts for ya.

 

hook the auto ecu back up and try to start it. maybe the manual ecu is no good?

 

i have thought about that. What are the consequences with using the auto ECU?

With the dizzy and such, the only thing I've done is replace the seal that connects to the camshaft. How would I visually check for damage to the unit (as I don't have a timing light handy)?

I also noticed that, having correctly connected the reverse lights and making sure everything's plugged in, the reverse lights don't light up. Is that another sign of bad ECU?

Thanks again.

 

well i know on a eg you get a CEL because there is no torque converter lockup solenoid anymore . TCS.

im not positive about the accords, but it should be the same as a eg with the codes.

 

tried using the old ECU, no success. i also don't hear any sort of humming from the back of the car ( i assume wagons and sedans have the same location for the fuel pump).

The thing is, the pump was working fine prior to this swap; am i missing something here??

 

Here's another thing I noticed. The factory shop manual illustrates the PGM FI relay and i noticed that when the key is at the second click in the ignition, the relay is ticking away. Unplugging the relay made the ticking go away. any thoughts on this one?

 

anything? anybody have anything to chime in? I'm so close to successfully completing this swap, but this is like some huge barrier in front of me right now.

I took the fuel relay from my donor car and plugged it in, same ticking. There's also a CEL on, but it's faint; you can see it's not as bright as how it's "supposed" to be. I don't hear the fuel pump whirring in the back.

Am i missing some sort of connection here? like the signal from somewhere to the relay to prime the fuel pump? anybody who's done a similar swap care to shed some light?

 

Just a thought - I think most manual transmission engines won't start unless the clutch is depressed. You might check to see that you indeed have a working switch that tells the computer that its depress.

 

it's just a momentary switch for starter lockout. it doesn't tell the ECU anything, it just completes the circuit to the starter relay. he said his starter is turning, which is the only thing that this switch effects.

 

the way I'm seeing it, the signal to the second relay in the fuel relay isn't getting the 2-second signal to prime the fuel pump. OR, i'm missing a ground somewhere, and that's causing the relay to tick away. I've tried tapping the relay with no success. I've made sure the auto shifter pod has the slider positioned at the "P" location. I've checked the ground to the transmission, the ground bolted to the intake plenum, what else? This vehicle was working fine (in terms of fuel system) before the swap.

 

You shouldn't have to do anythign with the relays if the car was runnign before the swap. The relays remain the same. One thing you should check is that the F22 engine harness ground (G101) is connected to the H22 intake manifold.

F22B* engine harness ground location;

Make sure this ground is attached to the H22 manifold somewhere and not the block or head.

 

Are you talking about this ground? more towards the driver side and opposite side to the throttlebody? the intake manifold (plenum) is common between H22 and F22?

I've tightened this ground and have checked it, but i'll check it again if I overlooked it.

 

here's the picture, i can't seem to view your picture at work.

 

[quote=ttcheung97;39397796]Are you talking about this ground? more towards the driver side and opposite side to the throttlebody? the intake manifold (plenum) is common between H22 and F22?

I've tightened this ground and have checked it, but i'll check it again if .

 

Yes that is G101. Make sure that the connection is clean as well as all the rest of the engine ground & battery connections.

 

can it be main relay?...also to check for fuel..crank it with a spark plug out and sniff away if u smell gas then your injectors/fuel pump is doing its job...dont over crank it also...that will lead to a flooded engine

 

Success! it WAS G101. Everything was tight, but i decided to take off that ground and check again. For some reason there was some plastic layer of paint/flake/whatever on the bolt thread as well as on the mating metal surface. that was enough to keep the circuit open. After i wiped that junk off, wiped the ground clean, and bolted it back up, the car fired right up!

thanks guys, but unfortunately when i went ahead to rebleed the clutch, i lost all pressure again. time to go back to the other thread.

 

thats because your letting air back in

 

the bleed valve is tight, the reservoir is filled. i'm thinking it's the banjo fitting and old washers.

 

or the slave is bad/leaking

 

thanks for the help folks, in the end it was the clutch line. i guess i cracked it when installing the transmission. i resolved this by going to the Parker store and buying a line directly from the master to the slave. it's not OEM, but man, that sure solved the problem.