I've combed through some of the other threads on this topic, but didn't seem to find an answer. I'm finishing up my auto-to-manual swap and when bleeding the clutch, the pedal would not show any pressure built up. I can't seem to find any leaks (inside the driver's footwell or under the slave),

I've went through a good half bottle of brake fluid, only to see continuous bubbles in the bleeder line when my friend opens up the bleed valve. The level in the master cylinder will go down slightly after the first pump of the clutch pedal.

I'm using the same hardlines that i carried over from my donor car, and i only slighly bent the lines initially to clear the other stuff in the engine bay. I could not see any fluid coming out the fittings, only from the bleeder valve.

The slave cylinder rod does not extend either. The slave is supposedly pretty new, while the master's a bit old, but I was able to drive the donor car before taking out the parts.

I'm so close to finishing this project; I'd really appreciate some input. thank you in advance.

 

If you're not losing fluid or air then !!?!?!?! Make sure you have all washers in place throughout the system as they are needed to keep it air tight. I was missing a washer at the connection on top of the tranny and it gave me hell.

 

top of the transmission? as in where the rubber line gets connected by the banjo bolt? I wasn't aware of any additional washer. all the fittings seem tight, and yet i don't see any movement in the slave cylinder rod.

 

Is your clutch pedal bracket moving when you press the pedal, or is it stable? I Also did the auto-manual swap on my 94 EX not too long ago and I hadn't instaled the Clutch bracket correctly, and so The firewall and bracket would bend and not allow the clutch hydraulics to operate fully.

 

i will check the bracket. I had followed the directions to put a spacer ( in this case a nut) and had drilled a hole on the top behind the firewall for that final mounting point. therefore I believe it's sturdy for the clutch range of motion.

A friend had suggested adjusting the jam nut that positions the plunger. I don't think there's THAT much adjustment to be made to add more pressure when depressing the clutch.

while pumping the clutch in frustration, my friend had noticed bubbles start coming out the reservoir, like fish tank bubbles. could that mean something?

 

You're correct. There's a washer along in that connection point.

Just keep pumping with hand and have somebody(or you) bleed it. Pump the pedal for 3-5 sec, open up the bleeder valve for 1-2 sec and tighten it, then repeat step till there's pressure at the pedal. That's how I got mine to work.

 

Are these some sort of crush/gasket/copper washer? I'll have to look at my "box o' leftovers" and see if there's washers resembling those in the attached drawing.

What type of washer is the one the goes between the rubber hose and the clutch hose joint? There seems to be some tabs that prevent the washer from rotating about its axis.

thanks for the tip dogg, I'll have to try that after work today.

 

oops, let me send that one again.

 

yes, they are crush washers.

 

Sounds like you either require a new Clutch Master cylinder or a clutch slave cylinder (Im leaning more towards the master cylinder)
the fluid could be leaking internally - also check the rubber boot around the slave cylinder rod for any trapped fluid.

 

it WAS the crush washer. I was missing one under the banjo fitting. Thanks for the keen eye.

 

Time to bring this one back up. I got the car started up, but when i went to re-bleed the clutch (it was holding pressure, but was rather mushy), i chucked a 2x4 onto the clutch pedal and opened the bleed valve. clear fluid. I closed the valve, started pumping the clutch, and realized i wasn't getting any pressure. checked and rechecked all the lines, cylinders, joints, and the only place i can think of is the banjo fitting once again. the auto parts store only had one washer so i had to reuse the old one.

i know these washers are one-time use, but can't they be reused? i'm going to stop by the store and buy two more this afternoon, or stop by honda.

 

Also, does the clutch hose joint leak if it's loose? i noticed i was starting to rotate the joint when i was unbolting the banjo bolt off! the banjo bolt is torqued higher, so i would assume something like that can happen. But just wondering if it's "fine" that the joint rotates, without affecting the clutch hardline too much.

 

no help on this one?

also, would anybody know why the bottom washer has those three tab things? and why honda is charging $6 for this washer???

 

i need help with this same situation also...no clutch pressure at all/no leaks. and sorry to jack thread..is it possible its the slave or master cylinder?

 

seems like it's one of those parts now. i've installed the HONDA washers and torqued them to spec. still no pressure on the clutch pedal. Probably going to have to look at the master cylinder now. this is getting too annoying.

 

update: i torqued down the washers for the banjo fitting. then i also put a new master cylinder. STILL no pressure. what gives here??? should i just run a braided line from the master STRAIGHT to the slave?

 

did you try a new slave cylinder? im still having this issue also

 

problem solved with a new clutch line directly from the master to the slave. my blame finger points to the clutch damper and how it probably got messed up during the transmission install.

happy motoring.

 

Did you ever get this resolved?

I've got a worn out clutch with no pressure...a buddy says bleed it, but wanted to get some input first.

-ride-

 

i'd say bleed it, check for leaks in the master and slave. those would be the minimum.

 

Will do.