GSR block with ls crank?
I have a gsr block and i cant seam to find any good gsr cranks or any that are local.
So what would i need to do to make the ls crank work in a gsr block?
Other that maybe using the ls rods and pistons and making sure i feeler gauge the bearing clearances.
So what would i need to do to make the ls crank work in a gsr block?
Other that maybe using the ls rods and pistons and making sure i feeler gauge the bearing clearances.
what you need to do in order to get it to run and to have it run reliable is to have a set of acl bearings,arp rod bolts,arp head studs all that are around 300 bucks in price!
then you need ls rods and an ls crank and yes you need to have it resurfaced,measured and rebalanced. youll also need new pistons that are more sufficient with an vtec head that also work with ls rods like pr3 pistons!
youll need to have the gsr oil squirters bent to have enough clearance for the crank!
here is the way I would do it!
get some ls rods and crank,
have the rods shotpeened
have the crank resurfaced and balanced
the the block hot tanked and honed to 82mm
get some rs 82mm itr pistons
get acl bearings
get arp rod bolts and head studs
get an oil cooler if the gsr didnt already come with one(some do depending on year)
get an itr water pump
a new gasket kit/set with a new t-belt
break in the engine on a dyno and have it tuned right away!
get a magnetic oil plug
this engine will not only be strong with its new 82mm X 89mm vs stock 81 X 87 (1880cc vs 1797 cc) dissplacement, it will also yield more hp per lt with its higher compression and tune so you win both ways! it will also be fairly oem and reliable!
then you need ls rods and an ls crank and yes you need to have it resurfaced,measured and rebalanced. youll also need new pistons that are more sufficient with an vtec head that also work with ls rods like pr3 pistons!
youll need to have the gsr oil squirters bent to have enough clearance for the crank!
here is the way I would do it!
get some ls rods and crank,
have the rods shotpeened
have the crank resurfaced and balanced
the the block hot tanked and honed to 82mm
get some rs 82mm itr pistons
get acl bearings
get arp rod bolts and head studs
get an oil cooler if the gsr didnt already come with one(some do depending on year)
get an itr water pump
a new gasket kit/set with a new t-belt
break in the engine on a dyno and have it tuned right away!
get a magnetic oil plug
this engine will not only be strong with its new 82mm X 89mm vs stock 81 X 87 (1880cc vs 1797 cc) dissplacement, it will also yield more hp per lt with its higher compression and tune so you win both ways! it will also be fairly oem and reliable!
I would not cut the crank at all. Also, Honda cranks don't typically need rebalanced as they are pretty much dead on from the factory. Pistons you buy for these engines are also very close in weight so you don't really ever have to do anything with them. Also, to me, 82 mm is pushing your luck. If anything ever happens, you have a trash block unless you want to sleeve it. If you only go as far as you need to (if 81 works, stay there, if 81.25 works, only go that far....) on the block so you still have "room to grow" in case of cylinder wall scoring or plain busted parts. I prefer OEM Honda bearings over ACL's but if you can get ACL's and they are all in spec, go for it. Honestly, unless you are making a lot of cylinder pressure, head bolts are fine. IMHO, rod bolts ARE a necessity as is stress relieving the PR4 rods.
^^^^ rebalancing the crank IMO is taking precaution and not at all a sacrifice of some sort nor trouble,its a measure any quality builder would take to insure reliability!
the arp head studs are much better performing than oem and save you from a lot of hassles in the future like headgasket leaks. the arp rod bolts as you stated help stress on the rods, I agree with you on the bearings with going oem but if I had all green specs I would pick acl's just because they have performed best for every1 else I personally dont have experience using them.
as for the bore honing I if it was my block would go 82mm,I mean unless your going with joe blow on the honing why worry? scoring can happen you right but if its built right chances are it not going to happen and this build is all about getting an extra 37cc's you might aswell go hunting for another 46cc's more to make it worth it IMO!
besides 82mm is pretty safe a thickness if running right and should scoring happen you can always get another bare block for cheap,I have seen gsr bare blocks for as cheap as 150 bucks and I think having an extra 46cc's is well worth that 150!
the arp head studs are much better performing than oem and save you from a lot of hassles in the future like headgasket leaks. the arp rod bolts as you stated help stress on the rods, I agree with you on the bearings with going oem but if I had all green specs I would pick acl's just because they have performed best for every1 else I personally dont have experience using them.
as for the bore honing I if it was my block would go 82mm,I mean unless your going with joe blow on the honing why worry? scoring can happen you right but if its built right chances are it not going to happen and this build is all about getting an extra 37cc's you might aswell go hunting for another 46cc's more to make it worth it IMO!
besides 82mm is pretty safe a thickness if running right and should scoring happen you can always get another bare block for cheap,I have seen gsr bare blocks for as cheap as 150 bucks and I think having an extra 46cc's is well worth that 150!
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I dont car about arp head studs, not boosting it and i just need to do this to get the gsr motor running so i have one to drive in my hatch.
just rebalance it so insure its not **** in the higher rpms. I know the rod bolts are **** i plan on using arps or gsr rods and pistons on the ls crank in a gsr block if i can but i dont think it will work with the stroke. think i have to use ls rods on crank in the gsr block then use gsr pistons but w.e.
not boring it out just a rehone and done this is not a performance build. its for mild stock rebuild.
just rebalance it so insure its not **** in the higher rpms. I know the rod bolts are **** i plan on using arps or gsr rods and pistons on the ls crank in a gsr block if i can but i dont think it will work with the stroke. think i have to use ls rods on crank in the gsr block then use gsr pistons but w.e.
not boring it out just a rehone and done this is not a performance build. its for mild stock rebuild.
sorry to break it to ya but NO gsr rods and pistons will not work on an ls crank!
and rehoning means your boring the motor its like 1X1=1 its the samething! you might aswell go 82mm since your already going to be inneed of pistons,rings etc! saying no to that would be rediculous no matter what your goal is! if your plan is to just rebuild thats a different story but your going frankenstein,and you might aswell gain 83cc's then 37cc no?
please either look into this through several other threads or find a good mech and ask him his opinion!
82mm is considered the safest biggest bore you can go with in a b vtec block!
82mm parts are exactly the same price,both product and labour!
82mm yields more than twice the gain of a lsv in dissplacement when combined with the ls stroke
so why on earth would you go and spend the same amount of time,labour,money for something less?
and rehoning means your boring the motor its like 1X1=1 its the samething! you might aswell go 82mm since your already going to be inneed of pistons,rings etc! saying no to that would be rediculous no matter what your goal is! if your plan is to just rebuild thats a different story but your going frankenstein,and you might aswell gain 83cc's then 37cc no?
please either look into this through several other threads or find a good mech and ask him his opinion!
82mm is considered the safest biggest bore you can go with in a b vtec block!
82mm parts are exactly the same price,both product and labour!
82mm yields more than twice the gain of a lsv in dissplacement when combined with the ls stroke
so why on earth would you go and spend the same amount of time,labour,money for something less?
A couple answers.
YES, you CAN put GSR rods and pistons on an LS crank. If you are using a GSR block with LS crank, GSR rods, and GSR pistons, you will actually be about .002 out of the hole. You still need to measure everything up top to verify valve clearance and piston to quench clearance. On an LS block, you will be about .003-.010 out of the hole with LS crank, GSR rods and pistons. FYI, .002 out of the hole is not that big an issue when a stock MLS head gasket is about .026 thick.
NO, boring and honing are NOT the same. Boring is a process that removes material from the cylinder to make the cylinder larger in size (IE: go from 81 to 81.25, 81.5, 82 mm, etc). HONING is the process of putting the correct finish on the cylinder walls to promote proper piston ring break in. Simply plateau honing a block (if you hone it at all) is all you need to do for proper ring sealing and break in. FYI: you can hone a block and actually re use the pistons that were in the block originally as long as the bore is still true.
YES, you CAN put GSR rods and pistons on an LS crank. If you are using a GSR block with LS crank, GSR rods, and GSR pistons, you will actually be about .002 out of the hole. You still need to measure everything up top to verify valve clearance and piston to quench clearance. On an LS block, you will be about .003-.010 out of the hole with LS crank, GSR rods and pistons. FYI, .002 out of the hole is not that big an issue when a stock MLS head gasket is about .026 thick.
NO, boring and honing are NOT the same. Boring is a process that removes material from the cylinder to make the cylinder larger in size (IE: go from 81 to 81.25, 81.5, 82 mm, etc). HONING is the process of putting the correct finish on the cylinder walls to promote proper piston ring break in. Simply plateau honing a block (if you hone it at all) is all you need to do for proper ring sealing and break in. FYI: you can hone a block and actually re use the pistons that were in the block originally as long as the bore is still true.
they are but Mr.Ryan here thinks he knows it all trying to correct me dear god!
atleast Iam speaking with experience not out my ***!
I have yet to see a gsr rod work on a ls crank,a gsr piston on a ls rod atleat not without mechanical modifications which make it useless and stupid cause of its cost not to mention it doesnt even make sense to use them and not to mention his numbers are all off those compression calculators and not making sense at all.
buddy have you ever tuned an engine? tell us which setup would make tremendous more power and run reliable that 0.002 out the hole gsr rod combo you say aint any trouble or the ls combo?
guess you have not heard of detonation,timing cause you sure as hell would make more power being able to advance more and still run with less detonation with the ls rod combo! have you ever even seen a person swap gsr rods with gsr pistons on a ls crank? I havent and its pure stupidity end of story! and you dont just hone a block brother you bore it and rehone if your a mech with the slighttest knowledge!
atleast Iam speaking with experience not out my ***!
I have yet to see a gsr rod work on a ls crank,a gsr piston on a ls rod atleat not without mechanical modifications which make it useless and stupid cause of its cost not to mention it doesnt even make sense to use them and not to mention his numbers are all off those compression calculators and not making sense at all.
buddy have you ever tuned an engine? tell us which setup would make tremendous more power and run reliable that 0.002 out the hole gsr rod combo you say aint any trouble or the ls combo?
guess you have not heard of detonation,timing cause you sure as hell would make more power being able to advance more and still run with less detonation with the ls rod combo! have you ever even seen a person swap gsr rods with gsr pistons on a ls crank? I havent and its pure stupidity end of story! and you dont just hone a block brother you bore it and rehone if your a mech with the slighttest knowledge!
Yeah, looks like you got me. Let's see here. The end of December (6 months ago) you made this post and YOU are talking from experience? GTFO!!! LOL! And you know tons about tuning since in that post YOU said YOU had to pay $250 to get a tune. I have not paid for a tune for over 10 years, bud. You asked some of the most elementary questions in a post 6 months ago and now you act like you have been building hondas for years? uhh.... OK.
BTW, yeah, you got me. I don't know how to work on Hondas or even do swaps. Heck, what is tuning? I have not watched cartunes for years.... I'm good at looking at pickshurs though...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-should-i-run-my-b20-2461944/
and
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/all-about-efficiency-2461312/
OP: If the only thing holding you from putting a GSR crank back in your engine is finding one, shoot me a PM. I'm sure I have a few sitting over at my shop. It will be much cheaper and easier to just put another GSR crank in the engine than it will be to do an LS crank anyway...
BTW, yeah, you got me. I don't know how to work on Hondas or even do swaps. Heck, what is tuning? I have not watched cartunes for years.... I'm good at looking at pickshurs though...
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/how-should-i-run-my-b20-2461944/
and
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/all-about-efficiency-2461312/
OP: If the only thing holding you from putting a GSR crank back in your engine is finding one, shoot me a PM. I'm sure I have a few sitting over at my shop. It will be much cheaper and easier to just put another GSR crank in the engine than it will be to do an LS crank anyway...
Last edited by RyanA; Jun 26, 2009 at 06:43 AM.
OP: If the only thing holding you from putting a GSR crank back in your engine is finding one, shoot me a PM. I'm sure I have a few sitting over at my shop. It will be much cheaper and easier to just put another GSR crank in the engine than it will be to do an LS crank anyway...
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