putting my jrsc on sat ......
Hey everyone , well i've decided to go with the jrsc on my R .....so far i have a cold air intake , dc 4-1 , bypass pipe , stock mid pipe and spoon n1 ....my questions for today are as follows ( and yes ive done some searches but could not find concrete answers) ....i plan to keep with the stock set up running 6 psi so what type of spark plugs should i use ?( oh and im using 94 octane gas) what timing should i run ?(to be a little on the safe side) ....and lastley ive read about the vafc hack and forgoing the fmu , but to my understanding everyone was running a turbo , could i possibly use the hack for my application ? if so would i still need to upgrade the injectors ??and would this help my coz ?? or should i just stick with the fmu ?? please some helpful suggestions would be greatly appreciated .....
Based on the kind of questions you're asking, it doesn't sound like you've done much homework on the jrsc before you buy. I'll try to help some, but it sounds like you need to read some posts of type r owners with jrsc's so you can understand some basic information about it.
1. cold air intake - the jrsc prefers a short ram intake, but cold air works ok
2. dc 4-1 is ok, the kamikaze is better
3. bypass pipe?
4. stock exhaust is ok, but 2.5" is better
5. stock psi is 5.5, not 6
6. spark plugs - the instructions in the kit recommend 1 heat range colder
7. minimum octane is 92; 94 octane is great, I wish it was sold in my area
8. timing - the instructions recommend 10 deg. BTDC with the base kit
9. what's a v-afc "hack"? I had a v-afc and sold it because it caused CEL's
10. you don't need to buy a separate fmu
If you don't have access to the installation instructions, they're downloadable at JR's website. I hope this helps get you going. You might read some posts in the forced induction forum, and the best resource is the forced induction integra site http://www.hostboard.com/cgi-bin/ult...bb=forum&f=110 . It has searchable archives with answers to all of your jrsc questions. Good luck and I hope you enjoy your jrsc.
1. cold air intake - the jrsc prefers a short ram intake, but cold air works ok
2. dc 4-1 is ok, the kamikaze is better
3. bypass pipe?
4. stock exhaust is ok, but 2.5" is better
5. stock psi is 5.5, not 6
6. spark plugs - the instructions in the kit recommend 1 heat range colder
7. minimum octane is 92; 94 octane is great, I wish it was sold in my area
8. timing - the instructions recommend 10 deg. BTDC with the base kit
9. what's a v-afc "hack"? I had a v-afc and sold it because it caused CEL's
10. you don't need to buy a separate fmu
If you don't have access to the installation instructions, they're downloadable at JR's website. I hope this helps get you going. You might read some posts in the forced induction forum, and the best resource is the forced induction integra site http://www.hostboard.com/cgi-bin/ult...bb=forum&f=110 . It has searchable archives with answers to all of your jrsc questions. Good luck and I hope you enjoy your jrsc.
If you don't have bigger injectors you have to use the FMU. Otherwise you're expensive motor will go boom as soon as it goes into boost.
Speaking from experience, save your money and get a standalone. AEM or Hondata, your choice. Both work great. I wouldn't even install a VAFC, MAP controller or any of the other black boxes people like to use. Just go straight to a standalone you'll save money in the long run. ITRs need a lot of tuning to get a JRSC working correctly, that's why they have a bad reputation on ITRs. Once you get it tuned right though, it's a nice mod. The car drives like stock but a lot faster.
Speaking from experience, save your money and get a standalone. AEM or Hondata, your choice. Both work great. I wouldn't even install a VAFC, MAP controller or any of the other black boxes people like to use. Just go straight to a standalone you'll save money in the long run. ITRs need a lot of tuning to get a JRSC working correctly, that's why they have a bad reputation on ITRs. Once you get it tuned right though, it's a nice mod. The car drives like stock but a lot faster.
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Make sure you know a dyno place to tune the car....the fuel runs rich with the jrsc in the type r. You can use the vafc to lean it. But again, make sure you know somewhere where you can dyno tune the car.
[Modified by SamC, 5:27 PM 8/21/2002]
[Modified by SamC, 5:27 PM 8/21/2002]
Based on the kind of questions you're asking, it doesn't sound like you've done much homework on the jrsc before you buy. I'll try to help some, but it sounds like you need to read some posts of type r owners with jrsc's so you can understand some basic information about it.
1. cold air intake - the jrsc prefers a short ram intake, but cold air works ok
2. dc 4-1 is ok, the kamikaze is better
3. bypass pipe?
4. stock exhaust is ok, but 2.5" is better
5. stock psi is 5.5, not 6
6. spark plugs - the instructions in the kit recommend 1 heat range colder
7. minimum octane is 92; 94 octane is great, I wish it was sold in my area
8. timing - the instructions recommend 10 deg. BTDC with the base kit
9. what's a v-afc "hack"? I had a v-afc and sold it because it caused CEL's
10. you don't need to buy a separate fmu
Thank you for some of your helpful suggestions but just to let you know i have done quite a bit of research (how i came to the conclusion this was what i wanted) , i do realize the short ram has proven better gains but since i already have the cold air i wish to utilize it until i get the short ram ....i do intend to change the header but as before i already have the dc 4-1 ......bypass pipe is the pipe that replaces my catalytic converter (theres no smog control where i live
) i do plan to ugrade to a 2.5in exhaust in the future......i was told it was 6psi but from what ive read 5.5 is perhaps the correct answer....the charger is due to arrive today so i have not had access to the instructions ( i was looking for a particular spark plug and corresponding part # knowing that i would need a colder plug but just wanted to know what others are using...the vafc hack is supposed to get rid of the cel , and enable you to use the vafc to tune the car ......and yes the kit comes with a fmu , but ive heard the unit supplied is not quite up to par (might stick sometimes) and to upgrade to a vortech unit......
1. cold air intake - the jrsc prefers a short ram intake, but cold air works ok
2. dc 4-1 is ok, the kamikaze is better
3. bypass pipe?
4. stock exhaust is ok, but 2.5" is better
5. stock psi is 5.5, not 6
6. spark plugs - the instructions in the kit recommend 1 heat range colder
7. minimum octane is 92; 94 octane is great, I wish it was sold in my area
8. timing - the instructions recommend 10 deg. BTDC with the base kit
9. what's a v-afc "hack"? I had a v-afc and sold it because it caused CEL's
10. you don't need to buy a separate fmu
Thank you for some of your helpful suggestions but just to let you know i have done quite a bit of research (how i came to the conclusion this was what i wanted) , i do realize the short ram has proven better gains but since i already have the cold air i wish to utilize it until i get the short ram ....i do intend to change the header but as before i already have the dc 4-1 ......bypass pipe is the pipe that replaces my catalytic converter (theres no smog control where i live
) i do plan to ugrade to a 2.5in exhaust in the future......i was told it was 6psi but from what ive read 5.5 is perhaps the correct answer....the charger is due to arrive today so i have not had access to the instructions ( i was looking for a particular spark plug and corresponding part # knowing that i would need a colder plug but just wanted to know what others are using...the vafc hack is supposed to get rid of the cel , and enable you to use the vafc to tune the car ......and yes the kit comes with a fmu , but ive heard the unit supplied is not quite up to par (might stick sometimes) and to upgrade to a vortech unit......
I don't know anyone on hostboard that had problems with the JR fmu, but it is a good idea to replace it if you increase your boost and go with larger injectors. If you end up using a v-afc, let me know if you'd like my "old" v-afc settings - I dyno tuned 193whp with the v-afc, but had to give it up because I kept throwing map codes. I wish I had known of a fix for the v-afc, but I didn't know there was a way to fix the CEL's. What's involved in making the v-afc compatible?
A lot of jrsc guys use copper spark plugs. They're cheaper and easy to replace every 10-15K or so, and they perform just fine. I use NGK BKR7E-11, gapped to .038". Good luck with your install. Be sure to tune out the over-rich condition and you'll make good power.
A lot of jrsc guys use copper spark plugs. They're cheaper and easy to replace every 10-15K or so, and they perform just fine. I use NGK BKR7E-11, gapped to .038". Good luck with your install. Be sure to tune out the over-rich condition and you'll make good power.
I believe the hack i mentioned requires you too upgrade to a larger injector 440 size , forego the fmu , and swap the tps and map sensors going into the vafc (don't quote me as im not exactly sure either but this is what i understand can anyone correct me on this ??) in essense supposedly give a lower voltage (to keep the comp from throwing out a cel#) and you need the larger injectors to trick the comp somehow at low throttle ( ok now im confusing myself) but to doubley make sure on my statements do a search in the forced induction section on the vafc hack .....i think they've figured out another cure for it as well but hooked up the proper way ......all the techno babble at 3 am has my brain malfuctioning .......so does anyone else have suggestions on the install to make things go smoother ?? ie stuff i should have on hand or other simple mods to make life a little easier ?? great input so far guys thank you ....oh and i'll make sure to post pics of the install ....
the hack on a safc allows you to tune your fuel without a dyno(blue wire mod) it just reads the volatage off the O2 sensor exactly and is much much more accurate than a autometer AF gauge(reads every .3 volts)
the hack on a safc allows you to tune your fuel without a dyno(blue wire mod) it just reads the volatage off the O2 sensor exactly and is much much more accurate than a autometer AF gauge(reads every .3 volts)
-Nick
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