so i have my b16a engine, and im selling the block, i want to go ls vtec so i know how much to sell the block for,

does anyone know what supplies i need for this? has anyone done it before? please tell me all you can. thanks in advance

 

u r going to need a ls block ,ls vtec kit and a vtec head

 

i have a vtec head, and an ls block, what is in the kit? where do i tap my head?

 

i belive you need GSR oil pump, and a special head gasket along with some other stuff which I am not familiar with. Althogh you can find it all using search or in the tuts section.

 

You can use a b16 head gasket or the ls head gasket.

You need to tap the head, I tapped my b16a2 head on the intake side close to the dizzy.

You will need dowel pins.

and a lsvtec sandwich plate to run the oil lines...

I think golden eagle sells a decent kit..

 

thanks guys. mmore details would be appreciated though

 

Are you going to be DD'ing your setup?

 

i am. but dont plan on constantly beating on it. im not like that, i just wanna run faster than a 13.7

 

Hmmm....from what Iv'e read on LS Vtec swaps, there not very reliable. The R/S is low which is gunna put some stress on your enternals. But your using a B16a head, the R/S on that is like 1.74 which is pretty close to an ideal ratio which is 1.75

 

If im wrong though, someone correct me please.

 

I don't think you would hit anything lower then 13.7 on a basic build if that.

 

You need to get your block re decked, and the head machined. They are ****ing fragile as hell. (from my experiences with them)

I would rather do it right the first time now.

and replace all the seals as well.

WHATEVER YOU DO! DO NOT USE LS HEADBOLTS!!

get arp's with some arp assembley lube

If you cant get them get some b16 bolts.

 

Here is everything you need to know....


http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-ar...ls-vtec-85477/

Google is GOOOD

 

http://shopping.lightningmotorsports...Conversion+kit


if the block is pre-96, you will want to use a GSR oil pump.
GSR water pump
GSR timing belt

and everything else you need is in the kit above.

Also, you will need to get an ecu if you already didnt' have one.

 

It's only as reliable as you build it and treat it. Remember, the LS block is not made to rev as high as the B16 block....I wouldn't rev above 9k...you should be fine.

 

the head has nothing to do with the R/S. R/S is rod to stroke ratio, which is the length of your rod to the length of your stroke in mm. The shittier the ratio the worse the motor is for high revving. It puts more force on the bearings and also wears rings faster at high RPM. This is why the R/S ratio on a b16b is so high, because it is built to rev very high, also why the R/S on a D16, B20, and LS are all pretty low. Although the motors can be over revved by a good amount with the proper head building and oil pump/flow and bearings (not as important as long as you have good ones).

A fully blueprinted weighted and balanced D series with the proper internals and headwork can spin in excess of 10000 RPM's. Don't believe me? Look at bisimoto.

So make sure to build the LSV setup correctly or you will end up grenading your LS block.

 

Stop quoting websites you just found from google, you have no idea what you are talking about. He isn't going to be revving anywhere near high enough for the R/S ratio to even matter.

Jimster already corrected you so I'll leave it at that.


You won't get into the 13s with a regular LSV unless you are running it in a stripped EG, CRX or something similar. Get some Nice Cams, High comp pistons(12.5:1 or higher), a little bit of headwork with an aftermarket Valvetrain and a good tune and you will be rolling in the 14's depending on your driving and weight of the car.

 

If you have arp head bolts, and i would get a basemap tune as well...

You should be good for up to 8200 SAFELY.

 

no. If its built correctly yes. Arp Head Bolts and a basemap tune doesnt let you rev to 8200.

 

SILLY! You're all silly.

If you want to RELIABLY take an LS/V to 8200 like a silly b16 then you have to get better headstuds and ROD BOLTS. Your rods are the thing that can't take the high revving. LS rods are like q tips and the rod bolts just pop at high RPM. If you LS/V a fully stock bottom end I wouldn't take it past 7200 MAX. But if you just shotpeen your LS rods, Get ARP rod bolts, head studs, and upgrade your oil pump and water pump then you're golden.

The other thing you need to invest into is ECU management. No ECU is going to run that set up efficiently. I suggest a p28 with ECtune, Hondata, or some reputable tuning software.

Good luck!

 

true that. Its basically what ive been trying to explain them.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/

You can thank me later.

 

yeah best thread ever man use this he just makes it all simple

 

it took 23 posts for an answer that could have been found using the FAQ's within 30 seconds, or the search option, Jesus...

 

theres a excellent FAQ aswell on the same freaking page, didnt really have to search