howdy fellas,

I pulled the head off my B18a earlier this spring and due to work/girlfriend restraints I have just now been ablie to try and get the ole integra running again. I used the incorreect torque spec on the head studs and the head raised a little bit. Checked everything inside the motor and its all within spec.

Well, like I said , the motor was sitting for a bit, and there's a few vacuum lines I forgot what they're supposed to hook up to.



Sorry, the video is kinda dark, but you can hear the throttle bouncing. I have my foot applying steady pressure to the gas pedal when this is happening. This was not happening before I pulled the head. The timing is exactly where it was before, and the ecu is unchanged.

I dunno what would be causing this. Bad TPS, IACV, MAP sensor? Any input would be much appreciated.

Cliffs:
Where do lines A, B, and C go to?
ANy ideas on the surging throttle?

Thanks in advance,
-Chris

http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...dlewhaa004.flv

 

nobody, huh?

 

wow i have the same problem as you...when i drive the car at around low rpms i have to keep the throttle constant or it jerks

 

A is correct.

Unhook C from the manifold.

B needs a hose connecting it to where C was on the manifold.

C (that's the MAP sensor). Trace the 2 hard lines (those rusty ones). On the other side of 1 of them, there will be a vacuum hose that goes to the throttle body. Connect C to that one.

The other hard line will have a hose on the other side that goes to the charcoal canister to the left/bottom of you fuel filter on the firewall. That's the hard line that the upper nipple on the evap purge solenoid (the solenoid that you have letter B on) needs to connect to.

The left solenoid is the pressure regulator cutoff valve. If I remember right, the upper hose on that one has the little white block off on the end, just like the one that T's off the MAP sensor.

 

Thanks alot, duder!

 

Buddy of mine had the same prob in his single cam

We thought at first it was just off timed like you thought, then we found out it was a bad ICV.

So check if ur ICV and see if its bad. If so clean it out

 

it kinda looks like the AICV... I dont know the vacume diagram but you should be able to look it up online some where

 

Welp, i found a vacuum diagram, as well as a picture of how i had the lines run the day it was tuned(and running perfectly).

The vac. lines are now hooked up correctly. No change.

I also changed out the IACV for a new one. No change. I cleaned out the old one and put it back on. No change.

Nedless to say, I'm a bit frustrated. My father thinks its an electronic problem and I'm beginning to agree.

The check engine light is still on, and since the ECU was tuned/reprogrammed, my father's Snap-On Modis(code finder thingamabob) can't read it to see what the problem is.

Think I'll give the tuner a call.

Any other ideas, I'd be more than willing to listen to.

-Chris

 

You don't need a scan tool to check codes. Is your car obd1? If so, there is a little plug under the dash, behind the kick panel on the far right of the passenger floor area. I believe the plug you want is covered with a green rubber boot.

Use a small paper clip to jump the 2 terminals in the plug. Turn your ignition to run (but don't start the car) and count the flashes. A long flash counts as 10, a short one counts as 1. So, 2 long flashes and 3 short ones would mean CEL code 23.

If you are obd0, pull up the carpet to expose your ecu. OBD0 ecu's have a little light on them that flashes the code, which you count the same way as obd1.

If you started as obd0 and converted to obd1, the jumper harness should have 2 wires coming off it that you connect together which will make the cel flash on your cluster. On mine I just wired them to a switch to make it easier to check.

Once you get the code (or codes), do a search for cel codes to find out what they are and let us know.

 

Thanks seanbev, I did what you said and it gave me codes for:

Electronic Air Control (IACV)

and

Intake Air Temperature (AIT sensor)

Thanks to everyone for your input, I think I can figure things out from here.

-Chris

 

im not sure but i would take apart the cold idel valve and tighten the plastic piece inside. they usually become loose after awhile and you have to retighten them sometimes

 

Since he is getting 2 codes, those need to be addressed first. It's unlikely the fitv is causing the problems. It might be a good idea to do the fitv fix from time to time anyway, especially on older engines.

I can't remember if the IAT sensor and IACV use the same type of connector, maybe the plugs are just switched around?

Another possibility could be wires got damaged while pulling the head out or reinstalling it. This could be checked by getting the ecu pin out for the wiring and using an ohm meter to check continuity from the ecu connector all the way to the plugs.