Hey everyone,

So a few days ago, my crank pulley decided to shear off its bolt on the highway doing about 75.....pretty neat, huh?

Here's a picture.
http://i40.tinypic.com/10ndhsj.jpg

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the old bolt out?.....or what's left of it anyway...

Thanks for any insight!

 

Drill and easy out the bolt. Once the pressure is off of it (it's broken so the pressure is off) they typically just come right out.

I'd suspect improperly torqued bolt if it broke off. Make sure you torque it down. DON'T just use your damn impact and say "yep, that is tight". Use a pulley holder tool and a quality torque wrench with your new bolt and this probably won't happen again.

 

Alright, thanks. Do you happen to know what the torque is off-hand? 135 ft/lbs?

 

There is a completely new style bolt and washer and torque sequence for the crank pulley bolt. Order the new crank pulley bolt from Honda and you'll get the new style bolt, washer, and the instructions for torquing it down properly.

 

So I finally have some time to work on this issue, but I guess I'm not entirely sure what's there/not there anymore....When I start the car, it rattles quite loudly ever since the pulley bolt sheared off, so I'm thinking maybe a bearing is missing? Or something is more severely damaged than I anticipated....

Here is a picture...

http://i41.tinypic.com/jg3ax3.jpg

If anyone with more experience than I could tell me if anything is missing besides the crank pulley, key, and bolt I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks!

 

Hard to say from the first picture, but it looks like the snout broke off. I can't view the second picture at work.

DO NOT start the car.

 

bump

 

Looks like you sheared off the pulley bolt inside the crank. You need to get that piece of the bolt out and I will have to say this - good luck.

 

The middle of the pulley is what's known as a harmonic balancer. Running without it will throw a stock engine off balance. Don't let it run anymore until a new one is installed. To get the bolt out you drill a large hole, reverse tap it and screw in a bolt with reverse threads that's long enough to reach the bottom of the newly-threaded hole and not tighten against the crank.

 

thats a big negetive.......you start out with a center punch, mark your center as this will also guide the drill bit so it does not walk. start off with a small dia drill bit and gradually step up in size on bits. do not use reverse drill bits on this capscrew since it has been torqued beyond the effective range of the reverse drill bit. breaking off a drill bit will require crankshaft replacement if you cannot get it out. I would use a quality brand name capscrew extractor and damper holding tool, do not use cheap autozone extractors or you will not be able to drill it out if it breaks of because its usually harder than drill bits...good luck

 

SAME EXACT PROBLEM JUST HAPPENED TO ME!

 

Any recommendations on what type of drill bit to use? My multi-purpose Ryobi's barely even scratch the bolt. Do you think my Black and Decker extractors are high enough quality to extract the bolt?

 

something for some hard *** steel. not wood drill bits here. and perhaps, if they are in good shape the b&d extractors should work.

 

You may want to talk to a automotive machine shop in your area. Ask them for some guidance and recommendations if you can't find what you need.

We have a good local shop that helps us a lot. You'll learn who to trust, build a relationship with the guy's there.

Good Luck.

 

tungsten,cobalt, or Titanium Nitride Coated bits...cheapest out of the 3 options is fine. black and decker is a no go, I paid 150 for a 25 pc. brand name set off the tool truck you can prolly get the size you need by itself for alot cheaper and it be a quality tool. wal mart tools will make you cry when they break

 

you are aware that with the damper removed the outer timing belt guide is no longer keeping the belt aligned with the rest of the system. that guide is loose and prolley your sound when the pully is removed. since the guide is not doing its job the timing belt will move into the direction with the least amount of pressure thus eating into your plastic timing cover until it jumps off and bends valves since that is an interference engine. you will prolly smell burning plastic prior to faliure.quit running it till its fixed.FYI

 

I just got the bolt out of my buddy's car. Use a Crafstman 6 amp drill with a combination of Rigid cobalt drill bits and titanium DeWalt drill bits, then use a CRAFSTMAN bolt/screw extractor. Drill DEEP then pound the extractor with the left handed threads into the hole. Secure the drill onto the extractor and slowly back the bolt out. It takes time, but it freaking works. Oh, and PB lube, plenty of it.

 

Like I mentioned I just did the same thing on my 1991 accord. I'm trying to get the dumb thing back on now that the bolt is out. What's the best way of going about this? And also do I need anything other than just the pulley? It looks like there might be another piece that sits in the middle that the bolt goes through because the woodruff key sticks up way too far just to secure the bolt straight in there. Any help?