Okay, I just got done doing the swap on my EG6 92 DX. I swapped over the GSR master/booster. My question is, is the GSR master where the brake lines goes suppost to be on the same side as the civic's or did i have to bend the lines? Well I bended the line and its not leaking, but I beleive that's not a GSR master. My pedal now feels sopongy and my brake light is on. Could it be a bad booster as well, every time i push the brake pedal down I hear a lot of air/vacuum coming for the booster. Is that normal? I thank you guys in advance.

 

a leak? do you have evrything on all the way? did you pump the brake and bleed it so to get pressure. i did this after the brake swap now my brake pedal is hard to press

 

No leaks. Anyone else beside Mr. Rabies. lol

 

i meant vaccum leaks. are the lines clogged or pinched at all?

 

I had the same exact problem. Mine ended up being the master cylinder.

 

did you bleed the lines?
did you bleed the mc?

 

Yes, I bench bleed the master. Than bleed the lines (RR,LR,RF,LF). But it still is spongy. Possibly the master(it is used)? Anyone else. Thanks guys.

 

Okay, went to Autozone and picked up a brand new master cylinder, ran me 71.00 and some change (44.99 + 22.00 core and tax). Fix that problem. But now the booster is leakage vacuum (where the 2 bolts for the master bolt's on too). Can I make a gasket to keep the air from leaking, or do I have to replace the booster. If I do replace it can I use a RS booster or get a GSR one (aint they the same size?). I think its a GSR in there now (the guy that sold me that broke *** **** said its a GSR). Does anyone know where I can get a working one for cheap. Autozone's @ 160.00+. Thanks in advance guy's.

 

Man you guys ain't showing me no love? WTF

 

Here, before you just go throwing new parts on try this to make sure you figure out exactly what the problem is. I did a rear disc conversion on my EJ1 and the booster I got from the bone yard was bad. Had the SLAM the brakes to get any sort of pedal. It was kinda scary on the first road test.


Brake Booster

Functional Test

1. With the engine stopped, depress the brake pedal
several times, then depress the pedal hard and hold
that pressure for 15 seconds. If the pedal sinks, the
master cylinder, brake line or a brake caliper is
faulty.

2. Start the engine with the pedal depressed. If the
pedal sinks slightly, the vacuum booster is working.
If the pedal height does not vary, the booster or
check valve is faulty.

Leak Test

1. Depress the brake pedal with the engine running,
then stop the engine. If the pedal height does not
vary while depressed for 30 seconds, the vacuum
booster is OK. If the pedal rises, the booster is
faulty.
CAUTION: Do not try to disassemble the booster.
Replace the booster assembly with a new one.

2. With the engine stopped, depress the brake pedal
several times using normal pressure. When the
pedal is first depressed, it should be low. On consecutive
applications, pedal height should gradually
rise. If the pedal position does not vary, check
the booster check valve.

Check Valve Test

1. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose at the
booster.

2. Start the engine and let it idle. There should be
vacuum available. If no vacuum is available, the
check valve is not working correctly.
Replace the check valve and retest.

 

Thanks bro, But it turns out it was indeed the boosters. IOU one.