How much is too much??? building my B16-T for daily use on 10psi
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 693
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From: Pittsburgh, pa, U.S. and A
Ok guys, I need some advice here... I scrapped my N/A plans for boost in my 2000 Civic Si. I have a 2nd B16 motor at the machine shop right now, it has ARP mains, rod, and head studs. Im building this car for daily driving and my goal is 260-275 whp. I decided to go with forged pistons, so I dont have to deal with cracked ring lands on the stock P30's. People keep tellin me to get rods, but then if I get rods, why not get it balanced if Im gona do all that..... Im trying to build this as efficiently and cheaply as possible.
1) Should I get rods or not?
2) what compression pistons should I get? I dont want it to be a dog out of boost since its my daily. Only planning on 10psi max!
Here's the mod list:
-Drag log mani
-Drag I/C and pipe kit w/Blitz BOV
-Garrett 50 trim w/ stage 3 wheel
-Tial 38mm
-2.75" Down Pipe
-3" exhaust
-P28 on chrome
-Joe Schmoe ported head (came on the 2nd motor)
-Buddy Club P1 high compression valves (bumps comp. .3)
-Stock B16 cams w/ITR valve springs, and Buddy Club Ti retainers.
1) Should I get rods or not?
2) what compression pistons should I get? I dont want it to be a dog out of boost since its my daily. Only planning on 10psi max!
Here's the mod list:
-Drag log mani
-Drag I/C and pipe kit w/Blitz BOV
-Garrett 50 trim w/ stage 3 wheel
-Tial 38mm
-2.75" Down Pipe
-3" exhaust
-P28 on chrome
-Joe Schmoe ported head (came on the 2nd motor)
-Buddy Club P1 high compression valves (bumps comp. .3)
-Stock B16 cams w/ITR valve springs, and Buddy Club Ti retainers.
Get rods, so its a full floating assembly (easier to assemble and disassemble by yourself) Balance the rotating assembly, anywhere from 9-9.5:1 compression
LOL, ya, i only wanted 250whp with my sohc, now i'm rocking it at 350 daily. IT'S NEVER enough, you always want more. until you make 500+ daily, then it gets fun
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like they said!!! you always want more boost. i run 9 and 14 psi when im on nine its like ya its ok lol and now i want even more than 14psi. but when you build your motor its cheaper to do it right the first time then to have to tear it back down and do it again. just save up and build it good and strong then you never have to worry IMO
my the set-up on my DD......
ITR intake manifold, TB, and cams
B16a head w/skunk2 springs and retainers
old JG b16a block
Arias 9:1 pistons
Crower rods
Drag manifold
Tial 35mm wastegate w/1 bar spring
Profec A
Turbonetics T3/T4E 57trim
RFL blowoff valve
Yonaka 24x12x3 intercooler
Custom IC piping (2.5")
Custom 3" downpipe (no exhaust)
880cc injectors
AEM fuel rail
stock FPR
255lph fuel pump
3 bar mar
old Hondata stage4
I wish I had remembered my power cable for my chip burner so I could have tuned it more (this was a street tune) and move the rev limiter up.
on 18psi and 93 octane.......
ITR intake manifold, TB, and cams
B16a head w/skunk2 springs and retainers
old JG b16a block
Arias 9:1 pistons
Crower rods
Drag manifold
Tial 35mm wastegate w/1 bar spring
Profec A
Turbonetics T3/T4E 57trim
RFL blowoff valve
Yonaka 24x12x3 intercooler
Custom IC piping (2.5")
Custom 3" downpipe (no exhaust)
880cc injectors
AEM fuel rail
stock FPR
255lph fuel pump
3 bar mar
old Hondata stage4
I wish I had remembered my power cable for my chip burner so I could have tuned it more (this was a street tune) and move the rev limiter up.

on 18psi and 93 octane.......
Its always more fun with 10.0:1 with better tuning from off-boost throttle response and acceleration. But that's just my pickiness.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 693
Likes: 0
From: Pittsburgh, pa, U.S. and A
Yea, thats what I figured... I have high comp valves (.3), so I'll prob get 9.7:1 pistons so it will be 10:1 total.
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