killablaze

hey guys

i just picked up a 1998 GSR has 114k on it. im looking to boost her. i have eagle rods, arp main studs, i am going to purchase 8:5:1 compression pistons. I am going to leave the head stock, just doing a new Intake mani and a throttle body.

my goal is to hit 450whp with a gt3076r (Full-race) on pump gas. would it be possible? or would i have to sleeve the block and get crazy with it. i dont have alot of money to play with but i would like a reliable setup.

LMK your input would help me out alot

Thanks
George

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

The possibility is there, but on the edge for 93octane. the problem is the health of the engine. It may make a few pulls at 450whp, but I would be safe and at least use better rods with those pistons.

And don't use 8.5:1. go 9.0:1 at least, please. the "I'll be able to run more boost" argument won't work. your acceleration suffers a bit. 9.0:1 or higher, and use an aftermarket forged rods. Sleeves will not be necessary.

killablaze

so eagle rods are good but not the route i want to go for the setup i am doing. i mostly would get wiseco pistons i was looking into the 9:0:1 and possibly selling my eagles and going with manley rods. whats your take on that, also still keep the head internals stock

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That's fine, whether you use eagle or Manley. the point is to use a forged rod with a forged piston to add a bit of a safety margin for the goal you're trying to achieve here. The rest is on your fuel, your tuning management, and the ability of your tuner.

stock cylinder head is fine. No need for cams or anything of that matter. You have a variety of turbo choices other than just the GT3076R to do what you need (you'll need the water lines, fittings, .030" restrictor) and the like to add to your cost. Many T3/T4 based turbochargers from the Garrett, Precision, and Borg-warner camps can do the same job effectively with a lot of response without the need of the Dual steel bearing cartridge. Check around and remember to keep your goals realistic and cost effective in case something goes wrong.

killablaze

thank you man, ya im trying to piece things together slowly with having money aside for that rainy day

kreatekustomz

I personally think 450 is pushing stock cylinder walls. If your going to DD it I would go with a different tune for street driving and a tune for the track. Just my 2 cents

killablaze

so you think i would have to sleeve the block? i also am putting in a bloc k guard i know it does not do much but it might help out when pushing for that goal. i know sleeving takes alot of money and im trying to do this with mind set of drop in rods pistons and other small things

90Rexx

ill be doing 400 on stock piston/rod combo on stock sleeves ill letcha know how that goes?

btw where u gonna get tuned? your pretty local to me

Schister66

You've gotten some great advice so far. I believe that your goals are achievable with the setup listed; however, i think investigating your turbo options a little more before purchase would be a wise move...furthermore, if you must slightly lower your power goal in order to run on pump gas and the stock sleeves, it isn't a bad option. The cost vs benefit of sleeving to make an additional 25-30whp, is not worth it IMO. Make what you can on the stock sleeves and pump gas and be happy with it

killablaze

to be honest from what i have been told, you have to go out of state to get a good tune for a honda/acura. so as of right now i am not sure, i want to start the build first and go from there

killablaze

well ya, that's my goal and even if its like 430whp ill still be extremely happy. I want to be able to get enough power to where i don't need to sleeve the motor, and still be reliable. And ya i will look more into the turbo option.

so pretty much push the bottom end with the upgrades i listed as far as it can go, before it becomes unsafe

blackeg

a ton of good advice from knowledgeable people in this thread. its definately good to see.


now i am using a sleeved motor, but i made 430whp pump gas on a t3 60-1 that i got for a few hundred bucks. not saying that you have to use it, but there are other options beside gt30 that will meet your goals.

additionally, you really dont have to go to 8.5:1 compression. it is very common to run compression in the 9's on a boost motor. personally im at about 9.3:1


i think you will pick the right parts, the rest is in the tuning and management

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

im also shooting for the 400's but stock bottom end with itr cams and valve springs retainers and valve lguides but im gonna use e85 with 1000cc rc's ill let u know how it goes

killablaze

ya i have eagle rods right now i prob will keep them and go wiseco pistons 9:0:1 head will stay stock and i just need to see my turbo route on what im going to do.

well im going to do skunk 2 intake mani and prob 70mm throttle body

ALOT OF ADVICE IN THIS THREAD we should sticky it lol

miguel329

so keeping the head stock arent you worried about valve float and what not? i just sent my block to benson to get sleeved and build i got head back from him with all new valves and **** for lil over $900 deff worth the money, if ur valve float could mess ur pistons and other stuff up... my tuner talked me into doing head i just wanted to build the block and use my stock head... just figured id put that out there, sounds like a fun project good luck..

blackeg

rather good point. i would keep my rev limit at what is stock for that motor. example, last year i used stock itr valvetrain and had my limiter set at 8700 similar to oe itr. i never had a problem. i know of a car that was making similar power to me on an itr head, but were taking it to 9000. it wound up loosing a valve at the end of the year.

miguel329

yea droping a valve sux! especially when it messes up piston and part of ur sleeve end up needing another build

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

For 450whp, there's no need to go that high of an RPM past stock. If its good for the factory, it won't work any harder when it is turboed.

Don't over do it. Get the right turbo, and the right parts. and keep goin'

madblkscientist

*

TEAM ASSASSIN SI

you got great advice but i would at least put in springs and retainers on the head hope this heps.

killablaze

Well I know that the stock heade can easily rev to 8500 with no worries and I have been told by many ,that the stock head can handle my power goals with no prob, the most I might do is add turbo cams or itr cams.

BMo Tuning

I made 465/318 on this setup...
stock sleeve b18c1, 81.5mm 9.7:1 wiseco pistons, eagle rods, gsr crank, gsr cams, gsr throttle body, aebs IM, stock port gsr head, CRP ramhorn, tial 40mm wg, ITS 62-1 ball bearing turbo, 3" downpipe, 3" exhaust, walbro 255, 1000cc injectors, 93 octane. 20lbs of boost.

I'd highly recommend getting it sleeved or backing down your power goal to around 400 if you plan to DD. I DD'd mine and beat the living hell out of it and after 5500 miles i blew the #3 sleeve apart, no detonation or anything, the sleeve just gave out on the anti thrust side from too much pressure.

Skip the 70mm tb and spend the money elsewhere, my car did fine on a stock gsr throttle body.
Invest in valvetrain, as a precaution and if you ever do go with a bigger setup you already have the head built and can drop cams in it.

Run a .0035-.004" PTW, .0020" on the mains, .0015" on the rods

I'd go with something a tad bigger than a 3076r if you are going to try to make 450 on a 1.8 on 93 octane.

Gtr Chris

im aiming for something similar but in a track car, obviously it will take a more consistant beating than a daily:

ive gone for:

b18c4
84mm sleeved
9.0:1 CP pistons
manley turbo tuff rods
standard crank
king bearings
arp main bolts
baffled sump

b16a2 head
supertech nitride valves
supertech 85lb dual springs and retainers
supertech bronze valve guides
cams im unsure of, maybe standard b16a12 cams
borematched and triple cut valves

.72in .82 ex GT30
SPA cast topmount turbo?

thats the rough spec list/guide so far . . . it will be road legal to get me too and from tracks and maybe for a bit of fun, i have over specced things for what is necessary but id rather be safe than sorry.
i didnt need to upgrade the head but did so due to it having done 150k so would rather be safe than sorry as mentioned above!

slowdaintegra

hey man i wouldn't recommend arp main studs unless u want to align hone your block i would use arp head studs though

killablaze

well i am going to use a golden eagle block guard to some what keep the sleeves steady with that much power. also i might do a 62-1 or 35r.

So my setup im looking to do is this

Eagle Rods
Wiseco pistons 9:0:1
Golden eagle block guard
Skunk 2 intake mani
70mm throttle
Arp main studs
Arp headstuds

stock valve train
possibly turbo cams

Full-race gt35r setup
thermal 3in exhaust