soo ive searched and searched but im have no idea wat the problem is
i tighten the ball thingy underneath the throttlebody a few months back and i cleaned the iacv at the same time

now my idle always sat at 500 and i tried adjusting it with the iacv and the screw on the throttle body but it still wouldnt sit right then i figured out im supposed to take iacv plug off then adjust from there
well when i did that the idle sat at 750 were i wanted it to be then i turnd the car off and plugd it right back and reset the ecu. when i start the car it idles high like close to 2000rpm then slowly drops to 1100 then i let it sit for a lil while then as soon as i hit the gas pedal and let it idle, it jumps up and down between 1000 to 1800

im lost on what the hell to do and the jumping needle didnt do that before i unpluged the iacv

did i do it right am i missing sumtin i never had any idle issue or jumping needle, the only problem i had was that it sat low like 500rpm

 

kEEP ADjusting, lol Lower the idle screw now-If that doesn't solve new Idle control valve

 

i did i messed round with them for a couple of hours and it still isnt right and i have no idea why the needle jumps now as it didnt before my idle doesnt go lower than 1100 but when i unplug the iacv it sits right at 750

 

The rpm is cycling up and down because your idle is too high. I think, the ECU has a preset limit for the closed throttle rpms above which it starts intermitently cutting fuel off to the engine.

What car is this, and what was that "ball thingy underneath the throttlebody"?

If the idle rpms stay way above the specs (usually around 500-550) with the IACV disconnected and the idle screw screwed all way in then you got a leak in your vacuum hoses, idle control valve(s), the throttle itself or the intake manifold gasket(s).

Other possibility is that you might have an air pocket in your cooling system; that pocket may eventually drift into the fast idle control vavle causing it to stay open and keeping the rpms high -- see a repair/maintenance manual of your choice on how to get rid of the air in your cooling system.

 

the ball thingy is the fitv i believe and the rpm never jump until i unpluged the iacv and when i do unplug it, it sits at 750 then i shut the car off and reset the ecu and still it does it and now it sits at 1100 jumping up and down and on cold starts it jumps to 1900 and slowly goes down to 1100 and starts to jump

i read that your supposed to adjust to 500rpm with iacv unpluged?

 

Yes. You adjust the idle rpm with the IACV unplugged. There should be a label on the hood that shows what the idle speed should be. It may show 2 values -- with and without the IACV plugged. Make sure you are using the right number -- the smaller value is what you want.

Properly warm up your engine, unplug the IACV and adjust the idle rpms to that value using the idle adjustment screw. Make sure all electrical loads (headlights, radio, a/c, whatever) are off when you are doing this. If the radiator fan kicks in while you are adjusting the idle speed -- wait for the fan to stop, too.

Then plug the IACV back in, and reset the ECU.

 

thats wat i did and it still is jumping idk ill try it a few more times

the idle adjustment screw is the one on the throtle body and not the one on the iacv

 

The idle screw is on the throttle body. Don't mess with any screws on the IACV.

So, what you are saying is that when the IACV is unplugged it idles at 500 rpm, but when you plug it back in it starts surging? If that's the case, then it does look like you need a new IACV.

If the idle speed is *high* even when the IACV is *unplugged*, and you cannot bring it down by simply adjusting the idle screw, then you have a leak; try following this: http://www.accordinglydone.com/forum...t+idle+problem

 

well i did mess with the iacv screw
but it never surged until after i unpluged it

but ya when i unplugg the iacv it drops to 750 isnt that were its supposed to be when u unplugg the iacv?

thnx for all the help

 

No. The idle speed should be 700-750 with the IACV plugged, and 500-550 with the IACV unplugged -- the ECU always keeps the IACV partially open.

Unplug the IACV and try to bring the idle rpm down to 500-550 range with the idle screw.

 

soo i did what the link said to do
and i did a few time and now the needle doesnt jump after i adjust it with iacv plugged in and bringing the idle down by adjusting the iacv and idle screw

soo it finally went down but its still screwy with the headlights on and the rear defroster it jump slowly to 1100 from 700 what the F>>>?? im lost but with the ac on full blast it onlu jump 50rpm and when i rev it it comes down to 1100 and bounces to 1400 and then drops down to 1000 then jumps to 1300 then comed down to 1000 and stays their for like 10 seconds or more and then drops slowly to 700


WTF i have no idea what the hell is going on here and especially since it never did this weird sh.// before until i unpluged the iacv and start to mess around with the iacv screw

 

Now this is really starting to sound more like a bad IACV... Whatever you did to it, it didn't like it...

 

ya but it never bounced like this or had any issues before until the day i messd with the iacv

soo its like WTF

 

do u guys think i might be doing it wrong



also my car doesnt warm up all the way it stays between cold and normal temp but it was always like that and my idle never jumped or had any issues other than it idled low

 

bump

 

Make sure that the IACV o-ring gasket is making a good seal. Did you buy a new gasket or reuse the old one? You may have a vacuum leak there.

Try to tighten the IACV and then with the car running spray carb cleaner around were the IACV meets the intake manifold. If your idle drops at all when you spray it. Then you know the IACV gasket is not sealing properly.

On another note,

Did you bleed the cooling sustem after you hooked the IACV coolant lines up? An air bubble sitting next to the ECT sensor can also cause a bouncing idle.

 

yes i understand wat u r saying ghost accord but i didnt have any issues except for the fact that my idle sat low and then when i messed around with the iacv and the idle screw it started bouncing and it never did that before

deffinitly read through all my posts i know it sux but youl understand my problem better

 

Good luck messing with the FITV and idle speed adjustment screw along with the rest of your idle control system. You might want to find out how it all works before you go adjusting things that shouldn't need to be adjusted. But from reading your entire thread it seems as though you have it all under control so you shouldn't need any help.

& good luck

 

thnx i knew what i was doing but i didnt know i wasnt supposed to touch the iacv screw FROM WHAT I READ but it was the only way to change my idle enough cause the idle screw wasnt making much of a diff

i will double check all the bullS again

 

You see, the thing is that troubleshooting the idling problems is rearely a trivial issue because just about EVERYTHING affects the idle speed. The idle screw is where you do start when there is a problem; but it is also where you stop and pull out the factory service manual if the problem cannot be solved by simply adjusting the idle screw - you don't just go around adjusting things at random!

As far as I know, the IACV doesn't have serviceable and/or user-adjustable components because the ECU expects a certain factory preset response from IACV when it operates it. Messing with IACV opens a can of worms and funks everything up!

In any case, I still don't get it: did you or did you *not* get your engine to idle within the specs (500-550) with the IACV *disconnected*?

"... the needle doesnt jump after i adjust it with iacv plugged in and bringing the idle down by adjusting the iacv and idle screw" is not an answer here.

 

I do not think there is an adjustable screw on IACV. Which screw did you mess with? Is it possible the IACV leaks air after you messed the screw?
If you messed with the two screws which hold a copper plate with water hose connections, you need to tighten the screws because air could get into the cooling system from there.
Also, try one thing to test the FITV. When car is in operational temperature, disconnect the intake air duct, use your thumb the block the lower hole inside the throttle body. You should feel no suction or very little suction. If there is a lot of suction, the FITV is bad.
Is your car 1999 or 94-97?

 

its a 94-97 accord f22b2 motor

so i adjusted the idle with the iacv pluggd in and lowerd it to were it shoudl be but like i said it still isnt right like when i come to a stop the idle will sit at 1100 for a while and then slowly work its way back down to 700
and when i turn on the headlights it will jump up to 1100 and sit their but it wont do that for tha a/c ??????


and now after doing that the needle wont bounce up and down anymore but like i said its still not right cause their are a few little weird stuff that goes on that it shouldnt be doing like what i posted