So for about a month I have been trying to diagnose my no start engine issue. I figured it wasn't due to lack of fuel because I could hear the fuel pump and also smell fuel in engine bay area slightly after trying to start car. Next I consider Electrical because air would just be stupid. The car cut off while I was driving by the way and never started back up, had to tow it home. Luckily it was just a bit further. So I was trying to remove the alternator but a screw stripped bad. POS. Ended up buying a voltometer to test the resistance and voltage which indicated that the alternator was fine, plus the alternator has nothing to do wiith starting the car. Next ICM AND DISTRIBUTOR. I found I wasn't getting spark at the wires. After going through a few Ignition coil's and trying to get it started found no luck. Plus volts or Ohms were reading properly. Next Distributor, Swapped ICM's and other components inside of dist. No luck...I felt like crap, these were used dist parts though right so I figure, I'll go buy a new one and see what happens.

I Bolt it up tighten dizzy cap. Try to crank!... and!!!BBBOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMM!!!!
I figure what happened is that through all the attempted starts and also stepping on gas on occasion testing fuel flow, I think a decent amount of fuel got in the cylinders! So with the new Dizzy and finally a spark, it ignited a larger amount of gas than normal CAUsing the explosion. If it wasn't louder, then it was at least as loud as a couger magnum. I felt it almost like an earthquake. I don't think my engine survived that. What do you guys think, it's on its way out anyway. My guess is that opening it is the only way to find out. I will not try to crank it again thats for sure! LOL. Im thinking I would have to siphon fuel out of the cylinders to resolve, am I correct or is it even possible. Hope Im not in over my head. Either way I will be eventually dropping a beauty in there but it will be a few months and this was actually my daily beater. Guess I shouldn't have beat it so much

 

lolwut?

 

yeah!! wth??

from my experience, if your car dies while your driving, its either lost power from no battery/ bad alternator.. or something serious. ie: timing belt, rod, something along those lines...

 

hMMM???? Well I checked the belt and it was like new no cracks or anything during this horror fest. Think this type of huge combustion could be possible??? Or ever heard of it? Logically it seems possible, and Im sure it happened, trust me

 

You should never pump the gas on fuel injected vehicles. Only on carb'd motors.

 

So do you think I pumped fuel into the cylinders? Creating a larger explosion than normal? I mean shouldn't there be a limiter, other than your own brain on this? I haven't cranked since. Im afraid It may have damaged the valves or the piston/rods?

 

Unless the ECU programmer at Honda was being funny, pumping the gas pedal on the car while the engine is not running does nothing but open and close the butter fly in the throttle body and adjust the TPS reading that the ECU sees. If you happen to have a manual kick down on the tranny you may "activate" that, but since the engine is not running no big deal.

Is it possible that the distributor is installed with the rotor turned 180 degrees from where it should be, I know this can be done with some Honda engines, but not all. If this is the case: Instead of the spark at the end of the compression stroke it would end up at the end of the exhaust stroke, if it ignited while the valve is still open it may ignite all the unburnt gas fumes in the exhaust from the continued attempts to start resulting in a loud boom.

 

Wow interesting, sounds like that could be the situation. Honestly when I reassembled the new. Dist I didn't consider which side the outside dizzy rotor should enter. If that is a possibility I think it's amazing! wOW. Do you think an explosion of that magnitude damaged a component? Rod, Piston? Thanks for response

 

OP: Got any follow up on this? I'm curious.

 

Can't install the F series dizzy 180 out, the notches are slightly offset. If you try to force it 180 out, you'll break the teeth on the dizzy.

And like it was said before, giving it gas while not running doesn't do a thing but open and close the throttle butterfly.

It very well could have been clearing the cylinders though. Give it a few cranks and see if it will fire up.

 

YEEEESSSSSSSS!!I AM EXCITED I CAN'T LIE. Finally got it to start. Anybody who's had their ride just sitting there for a while while trying to figure it's problem knows my pain and joy. Turns Out it was...? Well the weird thing is I can't exactly tell you what it was lol.
Heres why.

I took the igniter to auto zone and it tested good 80. I was like wtf. So that meant that the dizzy was getting red(power)technically it's black or green, or both?
Also that the problem had to be earlier along the flow of electical distribution. So of course that would be the Ign Coil. Weird thing is that I swapped the coil with three used ones that were all bad apparently after measuring resistance of primary and secondary. One had no current, other was over spec.

After installing the new dizzy and Coil, I make first attempt to crank.(battery was long dead of course as I attempted to crank many times before(charge, crank, die) the car was sitting for nearly 2 months.) So I am charging the battery while attempting to start
and it catches slightly while cranking and just continues to turn. I was excited cause it caught slightly but It wouldn't start. Let it continue to recharge for another shot. Turn key no more catch Just crank. I became delirious Then I thought, what about the close mode or what ever with the fuel. It sound like it caught a little fuel, and being my components were new I knew that I was getting spark. So I thought maybe Im not getting enough gas or the injectors are clogged or something. Lets floor the gas ped and put in closed mode floored the pedal, CRANKED, turned, kept turning, then I released the pedal to open the injectors. RRRRRRRREEEEEEVVVVVVVVVVVVVV GLORY

notes:
Also another fkup was my firing order was incorrect. So I can't truly tell if the firing order was the cause for no start with the new dizzies, along with me not starting in closed mode technique.????A lot of question marks. But what I do know is that the coil was bad, for sure. I think I read somewhere that diz and coil usually fail together. So maybe some of the igniter pick ups inside of the dizzy were bad too.

All in all new Dizzz, new Ign Coil, Closed mode Technique. Viola
Oh yeah and about $300 for necessary parts Beats getting raped by mechanic labor. I don't mind getting dirty. Peace fellas and thanks.

Stay tuned for PROJECT 007-Im a conceptual guy so either I talk alot or I don't talk at all. For mY project the thread will be the opposite

 

Car should still continue running even if the battery gets disconnected. If it does, you have a bad alt.
Car shutting off while driving can also be caused by the main relay.

 

UPDATED

Not on this model, Honda had to be smarter than that. That would become a timing nightmare. However your post did point me in the right direction to understand that my firing order was actually off which may have been the cause of the loud boom along with injecting gas into the cylinders while cranking, occasionally. I thought possible my fuel filter was clogged and freeing up the fuel system a bit might have been the answer? It wouldn't catch on it's own at first maybe that was just due to sitting for so long? I hope it was just a backfire and took no damage on the internals. as far as I can tell the motor is fine. I need to run a Comp check on the cylinders to ensure Im up to snuff. No oil leaks, O I take that back, the 2nd spark plug tube has a bit of oil inside. Blown seal I guess, I'll have to fix sometime this week.Other than that motor is back to normal.

Yeah I eventually learned it after looking at the outside rotor design. It's shaped in a way that will only insert 1 specific way. Looks like you can 180 to the untrained eye, but yeah I picked up enough.

Just driving now doing the necessary inspections, oil changes, stuff like that.

Yeah theres a mechanism that doesn't allow the fuel to inject unless cranking the engine, which is dumb for someone who has a running car but when your car is trying to catch and you can't tell if it's due to lack of fuel or spark. Testing the flow just by stepping on the gas is not such a bad idea. Eventually as you can see in my last post I put fuel into closed mode by depressing gas ped to floor while cranking, released and car started.

Yeah I've heard of the main relay much on the 90-93 models, doesn't seem to be too much of a problem for 94-97's but definitely something to be aware of.