I was told yesterday that I need a new a/c system for my 92 accord--well new compressor, drier, evaporator so it can be changed over to 134a. Is there any particular place where I can get some less expensive parts? I would like to go with a new compressor, but not limited to it.

Thanks in advance!

 

well, coming from a honda tech, I prefer honda parts. when I did my conversion from r12 to r134a, I only bought the conversion kit from honda, didn't even drain the old fluids, and just did an evac and a deep vacuum, and recharged it. the correct way to do it, is to take out the compressor, drain out the fluid, and measure what you drained out, and add some more pag oil. then recharge the system after you've vacuumed the system.

why you changeing all those parts anyhow?

 

My a/c quit blowing cold air so I brought it to get serviced and they told me that it needed an new compressor, etc....$1100 worth! That's a bit much if you ask me. Not to discredit any mechanics out there, but ....drammit! I do have windows that still work.

 

well, what exactly was the cause of it??

 

how much $$$ did it cost you from honda?
and who installed it?

 

Well, I would have to say my son. I gave him the car with it working fine. I noticed he preferred to not use the ac even though it worked. He then moved off and we let the car sit for about a year. Upon getting the car running again the ac did not.

 

I installed the conversion kit and performed everything else.


and to the op, you have to find the cause of the source first before you can actually say it needs this or that. I mean, is it leaking from somewhere? If so, where?

 

The mechanic I brought it to said that the compressor is leaking. They said they wont know what may hve aused it until they look at the parts removed.

 

I see now. honda sells the compressor for a arm and leg. but worth it. I would invest in that. and yes, it would be wise to replace the condensor and dryer along with the compressor. if you lived close to me, I can hook you up with discounted dealership prices.

 

I certainly appreciate your offer, that's awesome! I was talking with some of my co-workers today and we all kinda agreed that that much money was more than what the car is worth. I've had plenty of opportunities to upgrade vehicles for not much more money than that. The car runs good, hell great for that matter, but it does have 237k miles. Plus, I have a 08 CM Tundra so I'm not hurting. This will definetly be a diy project.

 

When we first started talking about retrofits, it was said you needed twice the high side pressure to get the same efficiency from R-134 so you needed a different compressor that could achieve those pressures. With higher pressures, you needed hoses and a condenser that could withstand it. Since the R-134 molecules are smaller and can seep through the porous rubber hoses easier, you needed nylon-lined hoses. The receiver / drier had to be replaced with one with a pressure relief valve set to a higher pressure.

What it finally boiled down to is you do not need higher system pressures because there is plenty of extra capacity built into most systems so cycling compressors will just cycle on for longer periods of time, and compressors with variable wobble plates will just self adjust accordingly to meet the cooling load. You do need to drain out the old oil so that usually means unbolting the compressor from the engine so you can turn it over. R-12 oil is not compatible with R-134. With no increase in pressures, you don't have to replace the condenser. You should always replace the receiver / drier whenever the system is opened. It's cheap insurance.

I retrofitted my '88 Grand Caravan many years ago at the dealership where I worked. Unbolted the compressor to drain the oil, (didn't even have to take the hoses off), refilled the oil, replaced the receiver drier, installed adapter fittings, charged it and set off down the road. Didn't notice any difference in operation.

As for nylon-lined hoses, you won't even find them at the dealership because no one uses them in retrofits. You would have to have them specially made at a radiator shop. Stick with R-134. Don't fall for any of the "drop-in-replacements" that you find on the internet or at car show swap meets. Some contain butane. Detractors will scare you with horror stories of car fires after a crash, but did you know antifreeze and transmission fluid can burn too? What's of greater concern is these oddball refrigerants will contaminate reclaiming stations and the R-134 in the tank. Most shops use refrigerant identifiers now before performing any repair service, and to protect their expensive equipment, they will refuse to work on your car if they find anything other than R-134 in the system.

caradiodoc

 

caradiodoc ,

Thanks for the info! I have about another week before I begin to tear into this project. Posts like what you wrote are really building my confidence.