Idle drop&stall when stopping/ hard to restart. [Will reward help]
Wondering if any of you ever had this problem.. ive had it since i could remember and it drives me up a wall
Every so often when i come to a stop at a light or stop sign lets say my idle drops abit to say 500 then shoots back up to 850.. but on occasion will stall
and also mostly when my car is warm (not warm outside = not the main relay) my car is ridiculously hard to start..EX: say i stop at the bank.. come out 5 minutes later and my car wont start.. sometimes i wait 10-30Minutes before it will start.
If you can solve any of these ill try and find something nifty i can send you or at wost ill paypal some cash over as a thanks!
Every so often when i come to a stop at a light or stop sign lets say my idle drops abit to say 500 then shoots back up to 850.. but on occasion will stall
and also mostly when my car is warm (not warm outside = not the main relay) my car is ridiculously hard to start..EX: say i stop at the bank.. come out 5 minutes later and my car wont start.. sometimes i wait 10-30Minutes before it will start.
If you can solve any of these ill try and find something nifty i can send you or at wost ill paypal some cash over as a thanks!
well it might be two seperate problems, for the idling problem, I'd remove your Idle air control valve (it's not your intake manifold) and wash it down with throttle body cleaner and install it back on and make sure it has a good connection. that was the same problem I had with my car.
as for the starter problem, I have no idea, but maybe someone else can help you.
as for the starter problem, I have no idea, but maybe someone else can help you.
check your distributor, could be off a bit, same type of problem was happening to my friend. try advancing it and retarding it and take it for a ride.
Is the CEL ON?
Idle problem -- try bleeding the cooling system of possible trapped air.
No start problem -- If when the engine won't start, the fuel pump doesn't prime, then check the main relay. If the pump is priming, then check the igniter unit and coil in the distributor.
Idle problem -- try bleeding the cooling system of possible trapped air.
No start problem -- If when the engine won't start, the fuel pump doesn't prime, then check the main relay. If the pump is priming, then check the igniter unit and coil in the distributor.
^ any basic usual problems with it ive already checked im looking for problems outside of the box.
no no cel i would of ran the code
ive burped my coolant system
walbro 255 does prime
Main relay is fine i resoldered it to just to make sure
ive changed my coil but ill try to see what else thx!
no no cel i would of ran the code
ive burped my coolant system
walbro 255 does prime
Main relay is fine i resoldered it to just to make sure
ive changed my coil but ill try to see what else thx!
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check if you have a vacume leak sometimes it can be the dumbest thing, spray some water see if you have bubbles, or better yet my freind had the same exact problem as you, come to find out he didnt have the ground connected to the motor or the head and it wouldnt start, i touched the motor with a grounded wire and bam started the **** up like butter
A bad igniter unit in the distributor is worth consideration. That might also explain the idle issue. Your local auto parts store may be able to test the igniter for you.
no vac/boost leaks at all
rotor/cap are new
ground wires are all new and i even added one to the intake just for kicks
im actually in the process of swapping my igniter module ill let you know thx!
rotor/cap are new
ground wires are all new and i even added one to the intake just for kicks
im actually in the process of swapping my igniter module ill let you know thx!
how would that be ur alternator? I believe its either a tuning problem or an issue with the fuel pump. Just because the pump runs. It might leak down just a little bit causing it to either leak into the cylinders a little causing a little bit of a hydrolock making it not start. I have a little bit of the same problem. Except when I run the car on the hiway for a while. And shut it off then attempt to restart it. Takes a little bit of cranking to get it started.
+1 on the tuning. my buddies turbo D does that to. replaced the TPS, burped coolant, cleaned IACV and FITV, fuses and relays ok, and no codes and didnt fix the issue. so i say tuning for those reasons on his and for yours. GL
yup.. sounds like its running way to rich at idle, which gets worse with an increase of coolant temp unless properly accounted for
or
it also sounds like a dying ignition coil.
OP without seeing the car thats the best i can give you, althought the rest of the **** people are posting up will have you chasing your tail forever in a parts store
or
it also sounds like a dying ignition coil.
OP without seeing the car thats the best i can give you, althought the rest of the **** people are posting up will have you chasing your tail forever in a parts store
Holly ****, you just brought back bad memories of my old piece of crap engine! One day i dogged my car like never before and it started to overheat but i didn't notice it till later it was in the red. i turned it off and pulled over.and checked water and put water in. the next day i towed it to my friends shop to change the head gasket cause I knew it messed it up. well i got their and it started up and ran perfect. so i changed the oil and drove like this for a month untill it gave.
I'd go to the store and come out and it would just turn over and over and over but no start. u can hear it try to start though. id wait 20 minutes and it would run good. and comming to red lights it sometimes reved up and down and the next light it would stall. and be hard to start but then start.
Mine was a slowly leaking head gasket. and it slowly let water into my oil and finnally i didn't change the oil and it was watered down and it started knocking. so i said **** this engine. i took it to my friends shop and got the camera and reved it to 7800rpm for 45seconds and baam their went the rod straight through the block.
after that on 3 cyls and no oil or water again but it only went to 4800rpm and i left it for 5 minutes and nothing else happened to it. but i hated that motor. it had 12,000 miles and it gave constant problems.
I'd go to the store and come out and it would just turn over and over and over but no start. u can hear it try to start though. id wait 20 minutes and it would run good. and comming to red lights it sometimes reved up and down and the next light it would stall. and be hard to start but then start.
Mine was a slowly leaking head gasket. and it slowly let water into my oil and finnally i didn't change the oil and it was watered down and it started knocking. so i said **** this engine. i took it to my friends shop and got the camera and reved it to 7800rpm for 45seconds and baam their went the rod straight through the block.
after that on 3 cyls and no oil or water again but it only went to 4800rpm and i left it for 5 minutes and nothing else happened to it. but i hated that motor. it had 12,000 miles and it gave constant problems.
says 'changed' doesn't say new.
but OMG @ post numbers!
now go tune it for him!! help him!
EDIT: srsly, never noticed the numbers. is that new with the vbulletin stuff?
but OMG @ post numbers!
now go tune it for him!! help him!
EDIT: srsly, never noticed the numbers. is that new with the vbulletin stuff?
Last edited by MonkeyMagic; Apr 12, 2009 at 08:55 PM.
Just to clarify things i might be a noob on here but im well known on other boosted honda sites ive been building engines for awhile this being my third boosted D16.
I aswell 90% believe its the tune, but prior to rerenting dyno etc i want to make sure its that so i dont waist my time on it trying to figger it out.
Ill Post everything ive done to fix this issue besides the tune and you let me know what i might be missing.
oh and also i have parts a palooza at my house from swaps/etc so i dont pay anything for parts
I Changed my distributer yesterday and my idle hasn't dropped yet (Fingers crossed) but it still doesn't always start.
Burped coolant
Cleaned IACV/Changed IACV
Walbro fuel pump (needed for setup but just to say that my pump is new)
New aem FPR
New FIC 750cc injectors with inline resistors
Cleaned intake/tb/etc from A-Z
Played with idle
Swapped O2 Sensor
etc
What im gonna do today is everytime it doesnt start ill start it with my pedal pressed to floor so it doesnt shoot gas.. should answer my to much gas question!
I aswell 90% believe its the tune, but prior to rerenting dyno etc i want to make sure its that so i dont waist my time on it trying to figger it out.
Ill Post everything ive done to fix this issue besides the tune and you let me know what i might be missing.
oh and also i have parts a palooza at my house from swaps/etc so i dont pay anything for parts
I Changed my distributer yesterday and my idle hasn't dropped yet (Fingers crossed) but it still doesn't always start.
Burped coolant
Cleaned IACV/Changed IACV
Walbro fuel pump (needed for setup but just to say that my pump is new)
New aem FPR
New FIC 750cc injectors with inline resistors
Cleaned intake/tb/etc from A-Z
Played with idle
Swapped O2 Sensor
etc
What im gonna do today is everytime it doesnt start ill start it with my pedal pressed to floor so it doesnt shoot gas.. should answer my to much gas question!
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xhatchracerx
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Jul 17, 2003 09:33 AM





