First post.
1999 LX Honda Civic 4 dr
The Problem
Couple of days ago noticed the car was harder and harder to start and then this recently. Car runs fine and then it slowly loses power (ie. Radio and Heater fan and then dash lights) and the car is like it’s missing gas or disconnecting the batteries and then it dies. Tried to start it and tick tick tick from right side under the dash and no or little power. Wait about abit and then starts again with full power and does this again. Once the car dies I can jump start it and runs fine for about 5 mins and then the problem again. Please help. I have an engine light code P1457 (Evap Emission Control System Leak Detected) but was told that this shouldn’t be it. Any ideas? thank you and looking forward to hearing some ideas.

 

sounds like your not getting charge from your alternator. have you had that and your battery tested?

 

thanks....I have not tested the battery or alternator but why would it die and then start fine and full power after a couple of mins.. I am testing the battery tomorrow. Any other ideas. thx

 

im suggesting the alternator is just now going out, which is creating the inconsistency. you want to fix before it goes out completely and leaves you sitting on the side of the freeway.

 

Good idea....I will test that tomorrow with the battery. Could it maybe be a fuel issue?
thx

 

if it was a fueling issue you probably would be throwing a code and your CEL would be on. your car would also run terrible if it was a bad pump or plugged filter or something of that sort.

 

You may have the common short circuit problem where an engine wire harness rubs on the intake manifold bracket. Is fuse 15 blown? Click here.

 

I am throwing a code P1457 but it's not a fuel really. Maybe the car isn't ground somewhere. thanks for the replies. more ideas are welcomed.

 

Great Idea. I will check this. I have blown alot of 7.5amp speedometer fuses. Maybe linked together. Nice diagram.thx

 

Yep, the VSS is on the same fuse 15 circuit. I think you've found the problem.

 

Hey RonJ@HT, Thanks for the diagram. I have gone under the car and the wires are taped and has a plastic casing. Looks good. I have also tested the battery and it's getting 11.75 or so and once the car is running the alternator is getting 8.4 and give it some gas and it goes down to 7's. The battery then is at 9.5 So, I think that the battery is running the car and the alternator is shorting out. Any ideas or your thoughts. thx

 

Are you still blowing fuse 15? Was the battery/alternator test done with fuse 15 blown? If you clear the EVAP CEL code, does it return?

One possibility is that a fuse 15 TSB repair was already attempted without the short being completely fixed.

 

No, I am blowing a 7.5 fuse speed/alternator fuse. All codes are gone now but car can't start. Battery has a charge of 11.75 I am running out of ideas. thx

 

Yes, you are blowing 7.5A fuse 15 (see diagrams below). Together with the EVAP code, which I suspect will return when the engine starts, I believe that you most likely have the problem described in the TSB. If you are not convinced, then start by carefully inspecting all of the alternator wires, starting from the alternator connector. If you can't find the damaged wire, you may need to uncover and untape the C115 wire harness to search for the short within.

 

With respect to your no-start problem, is it "no-crank" or "crank but won't fire"?

 

thanks for the quick reply. What do you mean by "problem described in the TSB" and the no start is "click click" under the right hand side dash and then nothing. It's like I don't have enough power to turn the engine over but the battery is at 11.50 or so. thx

 

The electrical short in the C115 wire harness described in the TSB that I posted a link to in post #7.

Clean the battery posts and connectors and then take your battery to a local auto parts store for testing and charging. If the battery is bad, you may need to replace it.

 

The C115 wire harness has two connections right under the fuel rail and not plugged into anything and nothing around to plug into. Maybe for some higher up models. The wires are alittle rough. You are suggesting that I tape or replace them? The battery is being charged tonight. thx around

 

Study the diagram in the downloaded TSB carefully. The C115 wire harness is not under the fuel rail. It is under the intake manifold. To access, you need to put the front end on stands, crawl under the engine, and look in the area above the oil filter. You'll see the C115 connector there. When you find the damaged wires, repair them as described in the TSB.

Can you post photos of the uncoupled connectors near the fuel rail?

 

Thx RonJ@HT for your help. I have lifted the car up and retaped the wires and just cleaned stuff up around the intake manifold and charged the battery. The car started just fine. I tested the alternator and getting 14v now from battery too. I am going to install a voltmeter to keep an eye on this. I don't have a digital camera to take pic's right now. Thx again.