I found a complete B16a for a decent price that has brand bew Buddy Club Spec 4 valve train and a ported head... but it has stock pistons!... So if I get it, I will be throwing in a set of B16b pistons... but my question is, will these cams be streetable? I do alot of mixed driving. Also included in the deal is an OBD1 P30 w/ Hondata S200.

BTW my car is a 00 Si w/ ITR trans.

 

pretty healthy cams for a 1.6L but with enough compression and a good flowing head i would imagine they could work alright together especially if your spinning that sucker pretty high

 

Yea, Im wondering if it will be streetable though... I read on the BC website that the Spec 3's are a good street cam, but it doesnt say too much about the 4's.

 

4's are good cams...with enough displacement.
For a B16 the Spec3's would be good or MAYBE S2Pro1's.

Also, get some flat-faced valves and mill the head a bit to bump compression. Don't use PCT's. Look up omniman...this is just from another thread earlier today...

 

should be fine after swapping out the stock pistons with b16b. compression(around 10.8) should be high enough to run those cams but the more the better in most cases. after everything make sure it is tune so it will be streetable. also, make sure you get some arp rod bolts because these cams make power past 8500rpm. gl.

 

I know a guy who put some s2s3 in a "stock" b16a. The car ran like crap. Vtec at 7k, reving to 9400 rpm, it was a complete disaster.

 

1: more like over 12:1 compression
2:cam choice is made by compression
3:these cams might make power over 8500 with headwork and more displacement..my 2L peaked at 8500

lol, see, cams that are way too big just wont work.

 

cam choice is not made by compression only

A b20 having 10,5:1 is nothing similar to a B16 with 10,5:1 concerning cam handling.

Also I dont understand how people keep confusing Skunk pro series stage1 cams with stage 1 cams in general... Pro 1 have similar or more agressive characteristics than tuner series stage 2...

also dont compare the rpm range that a b20 peaks to a b16.
The rod/stroke of the b16 means it can keep its torque to MUCH higher rpm than B20s which means they can EASILY show power with stock headwork at more than 8500.. A stock PR3 head flows enough for a b16 (unless you want 200 whp in a b16 which means huge cams and peak power at 9500+ )

I run BC3+ cams in my B16 with 10,8:1 compression -stock internals, they are fantastic for this motor as long as you have an ITR or similar intake manifold , a good header, a somewhat big exhaust and some more compression than stock (from milling or a thin head-gasket) (I get peak power at 8800 where my rev-cut is since I am afraid to rev a stock block more)

I would like to test the BC4s in a B16, but with anything less than 11,5:1 compression and forged rods/pistons to be able to spin more than 8700 rpms with safety, they are a waste of money and time over my current setup

to the original question of this topic, I would say buy that engine and just replace the block internals (not only pistons) to be able to rev it high enough. They are going to be streetable if they are dialed in and the engine is tuned correctly

 

I tuned a B16 with 11:1 compression with BC3's and even though I didn't play with cam gears, I still say the cams were too big. The power curve was nice still as was the torque(flat). IMO, I would do at least 12:1 with those BC4 cams.

ITR IM/TB
11:1 b16
DC header
60mm exhaust
BC3 cams
aem gears
Crome Pro
178whp/116wtq
http://i42.tinypic.com/14tbm8n.jpg

I think there was something wrong with that motor though. It only put out 215psi on a compression test. But it was definitely a fun street car that would rev to 9k without issues.

 

You are correct. There was supposed to be a NOT in there.

 

if you didnt play with cam gears you didnt see the cams work

 

not trying to thread jack, but would this be enough to run the spec4's?
b18c1 11.0/1cr(might be a bit higher) endyn ported head, full supertech vavle train, skunk2 intake mainfold(port matched), plan on upgrading to the skunk2 mega power header as well. thanks.

 

if I were you I would try them on that setup

 

i am running Buddy Club spec 3s and i have great power all the time. I mean the spec 3 is made for a wide range of compression ratios. Spec 4 you have to tune more to make it run right but they are not hard to drive around with. But spec 3s are cheaper and they are great for DD. and the spec 4 is more iffy. But Spec 3s are great street cams.

 

if my buddy wants to sell them to me a a reasonable price i just might